Another Holy Grail C-body Resto Starts Here; 1970 Sport Fury S/23 "N" Code 383 4bbl

Sorry to hear that. Sounds very similar to what I faced trying to get my GT ready in time for Carlisle 2021. For me it was the alternator that ended up dying last minute before it was time to leave for the show.
 
Hi Everybody,

I got an update on the car with some good and bad news. The good news is my stepdad replaced the old brain from the car with a new one courtesy of our very good friend Bill or @FURYGT, and we took the car to our friend who painted it about 10 minutes away and it ran great with the car NOT dying on the side of the road! Right now we are thinking its fixed BUT we wanna take it for another ride to make sure that it is 100% good and ready. The bad news is we got home with the car and the heater valve was leaking and is now no good, so we ordered the one below that is currently on Ebay for $145.00. We also ordered a set of 383 hood emblems from Herbs for the good bulges because when the car was being restored one of the studs broke off. Anyway that is all for now.

NOS New Heater Valve, Mopar 2936490 1969 1970 1971 Chrysler, B-Body w/ A/C | eBay

Herb's Parts: 383 70-71, Emblems, 3613277R(1)
 
If it's not one thing it's another...:BangHead:
It took me about a year after the rebuild to make the car dependable. PS/ With "new" or rebuilt alternators, the first thing u have to do is change all the bearings - they WILL **** themselves in a few hundred or thousand miles. Very poor quality, and the make and price don't matter.

The only way to get it all sorted is by driving the car a lot, or on a daily basis for some time.
 
It took me about a year after the rebuild to make the car dependable. PS/ With "new" or rebuilt alternators, the first thing u have to do is change all the bearings - they WILL **** themselves in a few hundred or thousand miles. Very poor quality, and the make and price don't matter.

The only way to get it all sorted is by driving the car a lot, or on a daily basis for some time.

And the quality of seals are just horrible. I have to redo hub seals on my 84 Cummins crewcab every year, front and rear, because they just don't last. I've tried them all from the cheapest to the most expensive and they fail prematurely.
 
Long time of an update comin' on the S/23. I'd like to take a lotta steps back here if I may and try to fully document the restoration from the beginning to the end, instead of starting at the beginning and skipping all the way to the end. Lets begin with the continuation of the quarter panels being pulled out with pictures being taken Monday April 4th 2022.......


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S23 quarter 3.jpg
 
More from the restoration, prep work time. The fenders, doors, hood, and trunk were taken off the car sanded to bare metal primed and painted separately from the rest of the car then reinstalled after they were done.......


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We had to put some mud or bondo over the hideous mess on the right quarter panel from the pulling and hammer marks.......


S23 Resto 25.jpg
 
I know in the very beginning of this post that I said we were going to leave the engine bay alone and not paint it, but surprise. Thankfully my stepdads friend, and body and paint guy convinced him to paint it. Here it is with everything masked off and in primer. These are all the pictures I got for now, I know this has been a long time comin' and I'm very sorry about that. More to come hopefully soon though......


S23 Resto 26.jpg






S23 Resto 27.jpg
 
Also not sure if anyone saw or not but we took the car to Carlisle this year and got 3rd place in the 1969-1973 stock class, that was of course with not having a smooth ride as the radiator blew on the way to the show at the New York/Pennsylvania state line. Luckily our good friend Rich with the wagon next to us in this picture helped us out as he had a spare aftermarket radiator to put in......


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NOW ONTO THE NEXT SHOW THE CAR WAS SUPPOSED TO GO TO BUT NEVER MADE IT TO LAST YEAR........ THE ADIRONDACK NATIONALS IN LAKE GEORGE NY IN A COUPLE DAYS THIS THURSDAY
 
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