David T. Ellis
New Member
I'm seriously thinking of cutting the trunk floor with a hole saw and then plugging it for future use. Possibly in tank electric fuel pump.
Anyone replace a fuel tank sender with tank in the car
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
You thinking about an EFI setup?
This simple operation is now made so difficult here.
Pulling the tank is a dirty job, but the sender comes right out under the car.
1) jack up car
2) put on jackstands with with axle hanging
3) remove sender.
Pulling the tank is a dirty job, but the sender comes right out under the car.
1) jack up car
2) put on jackstands with with axle hanging
3) remove sender.
Now I am feeling like a vaquero dolt. I think there is a bolt that secures the fill tube, but have not examined the rear end yet.....need to because some of my forebears left the license plate light bracket loose, and it needs attention. This prob happened when someone removed the tank.....J bolts have been taken off. But, all points made are good ones, and I do not know what the top of the tank looks like, so maybe pull just for that. I have replaced the rubber hose on the suction line thinking I was having issues.....and replaced the gauge and was getting some movement, and now nada. So, either I have a bad ground, or need to replace the sensor. But, other than I now feel like a dolt, I appreciate all the comments.....probably am a dolt now though.
David T. Ellis
New Member
Not right now but possibly in the future. Why?
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Such would be the ONLY thing which would justify cutting through the trunk and installing a high pressure pump in the gas tank. You also would need to seal that tank totally up to sustain such pressure. If I were going to install an EFI, I'd retain the low pressure pump, lines et al w the tank, and install a secondary small high pressure reservoir and pump up front, to deliver pressurized fuel to the injectors. Leave your trunk intact.
Many applications of electric fuel pumps, whether diesel lift pumps or auto high pressure pumps simply drop in at the same type fitting we have here. On a former camaro, I was able to remove the fuel door and pull the pump and sender. On the diesel truck, I had to pull the bed, instead of the tank, and the pump comes out the top.....kinda like cutting a hole in the trunk for access......or pull the tank. Today, there are all kinds of boost pumps that simply pull from the tank and provide 50 psi to the efi.....no sweat. One of the more modern corvettes is more difficult in that the pump comes out of the bottom of one of the saddle tanks.....not a nice job.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Thank you. I was only aware of early efforts toward EFI conversion, such as with the dual tank implementation I mentioned. I replaced a fuel pump on a 2005 Dodge RAM 1500 for an old lady friend, and that amount of labor for the end desired just reinvigorated my loathing for any modern automobile to the present day level.
I remain skeptical of the desirability of such a course, but its your nickel. I'd go with a dual tank solution were it my ride.
I am leaning today toward removing the tank, as some have recommended. I have some fuel smell under the tank, so would like to clean and coat the interior.....POR maybe. But, am wondering about that fill tube grommet. Assume that the tank is put in place and the fill line would be pushed in, rather than try to pull it thru the frame. Just getting those ducks lined up. Any thoughts on this rubber grommet. Thanks.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Yep, you remove the screw/bolt that the filler tube attaches to on the body, push it in slightly to clear, drop the tank and then pull out the fuller tube. They sell new tank grommets.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
You DON'T need to drop the tank for the filler tube grommet. Have you cleaned out the threads on the J bolts that hold the support straps? Do so if you haven't yet. Now, drop the nuts a couple inches to permit a little motion. Use a thin coat of Lubriplate* grease to ease passage of the filler tube through the grommet. Take care with the grommet orientation, and with both inside and outside lubed, first fold the grommet into the tank, then slide the filler tube home. Finally, secure the mounting strap back into the trunk. If the hole above the filler tube has rusted out a bit, you can use a conventional bolt and washer combination instead of the large sheet metal screw Ma Par originally chose. When all is well fitted and leak free, front and back, then you can tighten up the J-bolts/ While the tank is swinging on the straps, you may want to inspect the trunk panels above, AND the top of the tank. When I first got Gertrude, the top of the original tank had been half-arsed patched with some hard plastic coating, which RATS had gnawed their way through, making a damned rodent BALLROOM of the old tank. We were sucking rathair and **** into the carb for the first couple weeks I drove that busted engine. No great further damage...... I replaced the engine that December.
*Genuine white lithium Lubriplate can be had from industrial suppliers, but for this job, any white lithium grease or even petroleum jelly will do fine. Stuff dissolves readily in the petrol with no harm.
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Triple Pickle
Senior Member
Removing the tank is the right way to do it in your case. Be ready to buy some new J-bolts and pray that they snap off instantly rather than having to fight them all the way if they are rusty.
When you get the tank out in the sunlight look inside from both ends for crud. Of course, you’ll be looking at the outside top for rust. Let’s see some pics. Hopefully it’s good to put back into use. If it were mine I’d replace it if at all questionable. From what I’ve seen, cleaning and sealing one that has pinholes and rust isn’t a long term solution at all and will give you more hassle down the road.
When you get the tank out in the sunlight look inside from both ends for crud. Of course, you’ll be looking at the outside top for rust. Let’s see some pics. Hopefully it’s good to put back into use. If it were mine I’d replace it if at all questionable. From what I’ve seen, cleaning and sealing one that has pinholes and rust isn’t a long term solution at all and will give you more hassle down the road.
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
I've had the sending unit out of my 66 Newport twice in the last two months to replace the float and then the filter. I ran it down to about 1/4 tank of gas and then parked on an uphill slope so I didn't have to worry about gas leaking out while I removed the unit. No problems, plenty of room, left the tank installed. Good luck!
volksworld
Active Member
just cause i replied to this thread a month ago...finally fired the engine after the rebuild and guess what...gas gauge doesnt work...
Decided to do it the right way. Pulled tank, no sweat, couple trips under the rear end. Felt mat on top was great, as were sheet metal on trunk and tank. Cleaned inside and out, sealed, new sender and gaskets all around and back in with a bit of fiddling. I now have a fuel pickup that is near the bottom and actually has a screen on it. Also checked both the sender resistance and the gauge line, and I now have a fuel gauge. All good and worth the trouble.
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