I fully understand the desire to put the orig carb back on the motor and all of that. The "factory-designed" fuel curves and all of that, BUT . . . as mundane and "the same" as much of the operating systems might be between the OEM and current AFBs, much less AVS2s and the OEM carb from 60 years ago, the more modern carburetor is definitely a better piece of equipment. Subtle improvements in venturi shapes, better air flow for throttle body size, and other incremental refinements should make the engine run more efficiently and powerfully.
Now . . . as many have seen on the Saturday morning cable TV car shows, ANYTHING is possible with enough time, money, and expertise. As in rebuilding a motor, knock-out all of the plugs, soak the carb in "the solution of choice" to remove the aluminum corrosion, then "rod out" the passages and clean them to their original diameters, mechanically cleaning them JUST to get to a fresh surface, so the same things on the venturi cluster, then chemically wash everything to kill any acidic fluids which might still be in the castings, re-seal the drilled passages as needed. Ensure the orifices and passages in the venturi cluster are open and clean (including the "low speed jet" toward the bottom of the brass idle tubes!).
IF needed, remove the throttle plate screws and remove the plates so the throttle shafts can be removed and their wear surfaces be cleaned/polished, inside and out. Using new and correct screws, re-install the throttle plates and stake the screw ends as the factory did. My 1958 Ford factory service manual mentions doing this with each carb rebuild! Then rebuild the carburetor.
As an additional item, you can take an ignition point file and dress/smooth out any casting flash on the venturi castings for a bit better air flow. Similar on other casting flash in the throttle bores. It can make a difference in how things operate and the engine runs, as can attention to detail to ensure that the air going through the throttle bores meets the least resistance to a smoooth flow.
Now, what I have mentioned is MORE than just slapping some new gaskets onto the cleaned carb castings, but a complete re-manufacturing process to ensure the result is as close to a new carburetor as it can be, for back when it was produced. It WILL take more time. It WILL take more effort and research to see exactly what you have, how it is supposed to work, and how it all should go back together. AND it might take at least a month (or two) to complete the work. It CAN and SHOULD be a labor of love, so you'll have to firmly commit to it up front and then follow through completely to the end.
Buy a quality carb rebuild kit. Look in the FSM to see what the carb-to-manifold base gasket looks like.
For general principles, get an inexpensive digital inside/outside 6" ruler at Harbor Freight (or similar) for a few dollars. Use it to measure the metering rods and such so you can have that knowledge in the future. You'll also need a nice selection of smaller twist drills (used by hand or in a pin vice) to hone the very small calibration orifices, too. Then possibly some small sheets of 600-1000grit abrasive papers that can polish air flow areas.
In the realm of "blueprint rebuild/remanufacturing" process, do inspect and similarly-smooth out any castin0g flash and sharp edges in the intake manifold AND ensure that the exhaust heat passages in the intake manifold are open (so the automatic choke thermostat can get heat to operate). You can also "gasket match" the intake ports in the heads and intake manifold, too, with a flat ane circular files.
Please let us know how things progress as they progress!
CBODY67
