Best way to mount hoist to 400 big block? First time pulling motor.

[Lordofthepings777]

As stated in the title, this is my first time pulling any motor. It’s my first real project car, and I’ve already learned a lot.

From what I can tell, my 73 Newport with a 400 in it is locked up. Turning the crank by hand is impossible. Regardless, Ive decided I’d like to rebuild the motor, so I’ve come here to ask for advice.

Where exactly is the best spot to mount an engine hoist to a motor (specifically the 400)? I have a 2 ton leveler, and a 2 ton hoist. But I’m not sure if I should just hook directly into the block to pull?

I’ve included photos of my bay (note that these were taken before disconnecting everything), so maybe you can visualize what I’m dealing with a little better.

 

[CS43FI]

Hello

I have found "Engine lift plate" very cheap and simple solution. Works with big block. It is installed to carbutetor bolt holes after carburetor is first removed.

Good luck for Your project!

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[Welder guy]

I used the intake manifold bolts and one of these engine lift balancer (for lack of a better name) I use the far back intake bolt passenger side and the front driver side intake bolt . I only used two chains on the balancer . I hope the pictures help out. I did everything in front of my house on my driveway and in the garage.

 

[Welder guy]

I found that if I used a balancer , I was able to angle the engine in and out of the vehicle much easier . I have done it with just a chain though to the same two intake manifold bolts . Be sure to have a friend help. Cover up the carb. Or better yet take it right off.

 

[MONC440]

If you are pulling just the engine and not the trans the carb plate works great. If you are pulling the engine and trans together use the balancer.

 

[CBODY67]

ONE thing you'll need to compensate for is that as the engine is raised, the front end of the car will rise too, as the weight is removed. Part of the dealership special tools was a fixture to lock the torsion bars at normal ride height, so the front end of the car did not rise as the weight they support is lessened.

Just a thought,
CBODY67

 

[Welder guy]

This is my 440/727 with just a chain to the same intake bolts . (The last set of pictures was a 383.) . You make a small loop with the chain in the middle and a bolt holding it together and then hook it on the hoist hook. The issue with doing it this way it’s a lot harder to get the angle You need to get the engine/trans in and out of the vehicle.

 

[Welder guy]

If you are pulling just the engine and not the trans the carb plate works great. If you are pulling the engine and trans together use the balancer.

You are correct !!

 

[Big_John]

The 4 outside corner bolts on the intake work for me using a balancer. I've never been a fan of using the carb plate, but guys use them all the time.

Take the carb and distributor off so they don't get damaged.

I also like to pull the power steering pump, alternator with assorted brackets along with the engine fan (take a pic to help you get this back together). Again, so it doesn't get damaged.

If you are leaving the trans in, a 2 x 4 across the frame rails with holes so you can bolt it to the trans bellhousing. That will let you roll the car around.

 

[James Romano]

As stated in the title, this is my first time pulling any motor. It’s my first real project car, and I’ve already learned a lot.

From what I can tell, my 73 Newport with a 400 in it is locked up. Turning the crank by hand is impossible. Regardless, Ive decided I’d like to rebuild the motor, so I’ve come here to ask for advice.

Where exactly is the best spot to mount an engine hoist to a motor (specifically the 400)? I have a 2 ton leveler, and a 2 ton hoist. But I’m not sure if I should just hook directly into the block to pull?

I’ve included photos of my bay (note that these were taken before disconnecting everything), so maybe you can visualize what I’m dealing with a little better.

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1. Mark the bolt positions on the hood hinges, and remove the hood. Will make it easier when you put it back on.
2. Most likely and the usual way is the intake manifold bracket in place of the carb (although this is easiest, can't say its the safest), cross chains mounted to intake bolts work as well. Meaning you have to remove the 4 corner bolts of the intake manifold and mount the small plates under the bolts, then tighten.

Is the transmission staying, or coming out as well? If it's coming out, then use the carb plate with really strong studs... will allow you to move the set around easier... not sure if safer, but easier.

Take a look at this video... Pete's Garage is pretty good with explaining it. He uses the single plate in the intake manifold.

 

[Lordofthepings777]

I used the intake manifold bolts and one of these engine lift balancer (for lack of a better name) I use the far back intake bolt passenger side and the front driver side intake bolt . I only used two chains on the balancer . I hope the pictures help out. I did everything in front of my house on my driveway and in the garage.
View attachment 722487View attachment 722488View attachment 722489View attachment 722490View attachment 722491

Yes! I bought the same thing, but a higher weight load one. 2 ton load leveler is what it’s called. Good to know where to place it and good refrence photos. Thank you!

 

[Lordofthepings777]

1. Mark the bolt positions on the hood hinges, and remove the hood. Will make it easier when you put it back on.
2. Most likely and the usual way is the intake manifold bracket in place of the carb (although this is easiest, can't say its the safest), cross chains mounted to intake bolts work as well. Meaning you have to remove the 4 corner bolts of the intake manifold and mount the small plates under the bolts, then tighten.

Is the transmission staying, or coming out as well? If it's coming out, then use the carb plate with really strong studs... will allow you to move the set around easier... not sure if safer, but easier.

Take a look at this video... Pete's Garage is pretty good with explaining it. He uses the single plate in the intake manifold.

Just the Engine is coming out. Transmission seems to be fine as is.

 

[James Romano]

Yes, if you're leaving the trans in, then it's a lot easier to pull the motor.... no drastic tripping or swinging required.

 

[volksworld]

if the engine is seized you can't turn it to get to the converter bolts....trying to pull an engine with the converter attached requires more room than the radiator support usually allows and the converter dumps its contents on the ground....it sucks but if done out of the car and level with a pan under it you'll have less risk of damaging the converter,flexplate or trans internals and making a helluva mess...get a stop off plug for the trans tailshaft (and try not to knock that out while swinging the engine) or fluid will pour out of there as the whole setup is on the proper angle to get it out...I hate pulling an engine with the trans attached but you're pretty much stuck

 

[Big_John]

if the engine is seized you can't turn it to get to the converter bolts....trying to pull an engine with the converter attached requires more room than the radiator support usually allows and the converter dumps its contents on the ground....it sucks but if done out of the car and level with a pan under it you'll have less risk of damaging the converter,flexplate or trans internals and making a helluva mess...get a stop off plug for the trans tailshaft (and try not to knock that out while swinging the engine) or fluid will pour out of there as the whole setup is on the proper angle to get it out...I hate pulling an engine with the trans attached but you're pretty much stuck

Geez, I forgot/missed that about the engine being seized.

Just thinking out loud here.

What if he pulled everything off the front of the engine? Obviously PS pump and alternator, but also pulled the water pump and housing. In other words, reduce the length of the engine.

Your suggestion of pulling the engine and trans together is probably the best bet, but thinking about alternatives.

 

[Camshaft]

I don't know gents: There are a couple of things that come to mind here. The motor is locked up, so you you can assume that the tranny needs going through as well, might as well take it out now. Rebuild the motor, put it back in and the tranny is shot, so do it all over again? No. I strip everything off the motor, carb, water pump, exhaust manifolds, power steering pump, coil, wiring, anything you can get your hands on, it's coming off anyway. I would pull the rad too, might as well check that box off. If the motors locked up, you can't get all the converter bolts anyway, so take it out in one shot. Remove the hood after marking the bolt holes with a felt pen. I jack the front of the car up and put it on jack stands, (or 2 x 12's like in the photos above) With the car on an upward slant you can lift and pull the entire assembly forward six or eight inches (there is room cause the rad is gone) then start letting the front of the car down as you tilt the engine and transmission so that it clears the tranny tunnel. Bob's your uncle.

 

[Welder guy]

The 2”x12” in my above pictures are actually level, my concrete driveway is sloped downwards away from the house . The car being level allows me to roll it forward or backward as needed when installing the engine. The slope of the driveway allowed me a lot of room to get underneath my car , to hold up the back of the transmission as it is being lowered into the car. The back of the transmission has to be eased into place over top of the transmission crossmember into the transmission mount and engine mounts . After the 3 mounts are bolted down I roll the car into the garage on to the 4 post car lift to finish the job .

 

[Big_John]

I would pull the rad too, might as well check that box off

I always assume that the radiator gets removed, but I forget that with someone doing it the first time, they may not know that.

 

[mgm1986]

I went through my first engine/trans removal over the winter and it wasn't bad. I removed the front engine accessories and the radiator to make sure it didn't get damaged. I did not remove the trans cross member but I should have as it made the job more difficult and had to come out to reinstall anyway.

I used a heavy strap wrapped under the intake without a leveler using a 2-ton hoist and it came out very easy.

While the strapped worked fine for removing the engine I don't think it would work well to reinstall so I used a plate on the carb as @CBODY67 posted. This made maneuvering the engine and trans so much easier.

My experience is that putting it back in was more challenging but my wife helped and we got it in without any damage.

Be safe, it is a little intimidating at first but if you go slow and take your time it is a fun and satisfying project. Good luck!

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

The 2”x12” in my above pictures are actually level, my concrete driveway is sloped downwards away from the house .

Your a very brave man doing that on a pitched driveway!