Better Ballast Resistor for electronic ignitions

Soo right! Cheap foreign resistors, caps coils ALL cause more grief than that which they're contrived to releive. I was researching Pertronix just this past week, considering the merits of their coils. They're decently reputed, but will stick with either NOS American made or select modern American made stuff like these Taylor Vertex coils. The Taylor I run now has served us VERY well for the past 3 years. I suppose if I get too feeble to set my points properly, the Pertronix upgrade rates high on my list of solid state ignitions.

Mind you, not ALL foreign made stuff sux. FuryGT's XLNT solid state VR still serves perfectly with the 95A Powermaster alternator I have it on. Pertronix makes lots of their stuff, if not all of it in Mexico, as does Stewart Warner. I certainly DON'T tout brands or national sources for any paytriotarded motives. DEO ABSIT!
 
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Two different ballasts the one on the left is a 2095501 .5-.6 ohm the one on the right is a 2275590 a bit higher ohm I believe for the HP Cuda GTX Roadrunner Hemi Six Pack cars think it is .6-.8 ohm. either works fine with points cars. Your FSM has the listing in it for which ballast resistor and values it should be for your car. Now that is all factory coils, aftermarket you need to read the instructions on what they recommened. Dont get me wrong just about andy ballast will make your car run, but if it is not matchd you will not get the optimum results from the ignition system.
 
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Soo right! Cheap foreign resistors, caps coils ALL cause more grief than that which they're contrived to releive. I was researching Pertronix just this past week, considering the merits of their coils. They're decently reputed, but will stick with either NOS American made or select modern American made stuff like these Taylor Vertex coils. The Taylor I run now has served us VERY well for the past 3 years. I suppose if I get to feeble to set my points properly, the Pertronix upgrade rates high on my list of solid state ignitions.

Mind you, not ALL foreign made stuff sux. FuryGT's XLNT solid state VR still serves perfectly with the 95A Powermaster alternator I have it on. Pertronix makes lots of their stuff, if not all of it in Mexico, as does Stewart Warner. I certainly DON'T tout brands or national sources for any paytriotarded motives. DEO ABSIT!
I really like the petronix I's no issues with them so far and I have done dozens of them the II are ok have had some issus but they stand behind them. The III's I will not install till they work out all the bugs.
 
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Just FYI off the web
 
Two different ballasts the one on the left is a 2095501 .5-.6 ohm the one on the right is a 2275590 a bit higher ohm I believe for the HP Cuda GTX Roadrunner Hemi Six Pack cars think it is .6-.8 ohm. either works fine with points cars. Your FSM has the listing in it for which ballast resistor and values it should be for your car. Now that is all factory coils, aftermarket you need to read the instructions on what they recommened. Dont get me wrong just about andy ballast will make your car run, but if it is not matchd you will not get the optimum results from the ignition system.

Yes, one MUST optimize the impedance of the ballast resistor with the coil one runs! I'm very pleased to note that when my 383 is cold, the combination of the current BR with that Taylor coil initially permits ~ 12/13 of the voltage division to be over the coil, allowing a high secondary voltage to quickly warm the engine up. Once warm, I note that coil voltage drops to ~ 9-11 VDC, implying that the BR accounts for about 1/4 of the circuit impedance.

I will shop for a good couple ballast resistors, one for now, and another as reserve for this coil. I like enough voltage to ignite and thoroughly burn the fuel on the power stroke, but not so much as to prematurely destroy the points.

A NASTY backfire into a boiling carburetor a couple weeks ago brought on my recent, more detailed tune up, with the extra research on impedance selection. With ambient temperature around 105F, I'd stopped at a Circle Jerk to purchase edible garbage for my spawn, permitting the contents of the carb bowl ample time to boil with "heat soak," resulting in a conflagration of several minutes duration upon attempting to start the engine. The ABSURD "safety wrapping" of the damned fire extinguisher exacerbated the fire and resultant damage, by delaying me over a minute!

Anyway, I WAS able to drive us home after a few minutes of carefully inspecting the wiring harness, finding a short where the insulation to my coil's primary supply which I neatly cut out of the wiring, and then bound, and shrink wrapped in situ. The coil itself, though heated considerably by the conflagration has continued to function, and this is what inspired me to measure the impedances and drops on the circuit elements, both while active and off. I already obtained a venerable NOS Delco U500, pre-UPC vintage as a replacment candidate for the coil, though I may shop for an epoxy filled Taylor Vertex coil, when I can catch them for under $40, inc. S&H ....

I might ping you for a coil or 2 also, later. Your store stocks well. Hmm, maybe some Oilite bushings also....
 
I really like the petronix I's no issues with them so far and I have done dozens of them the II are ok have had some issus but they stand behind them. The III's I will not install till they work out all the bugs.

Your preference wrt Pertronix products follows the vast majority of consumers. I'll keep these thoughts in mind, in case I find some treasure lurking in the odd places I like to shop.
 
Your preference wrt Pertronix products follows the vast majority of consumers. I'll keep these thoughts in mind, in case I find some treasure lurking in the odd places I like to shop.
You never know what you will find ever! Coils I just have what I get in with other stuff really, bushings I get made up NORS are just to much for a regular rebuild.
 
You never know what you will find ever! Coils I just have what I get in with other stuff really, bushings I get made up NORS are just to much for a regular rebuild.

So true. I've done well scoring those old distributors this past year. Have a lifetime supply of them now. I need a good capacitance meter though, for the condensers. The NORS stuff is better than the new cheap crap, but sometimes wound Mylar and such doesn't hold up over decades.
 
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