Brake conversion question

Trial and error I guess. Thinking the rotors are incorrect. Big John is right... If the races go farther into the rotor it will only make it worse.

I can return the rotors still have the receipt. What is a suggested source? Rock didn't have any in stock for Raybestos but they do have centric (45.00)... Napa has some as well (219.00)

Both of those two have different part numbers for 69 and 73
 
Napa was out of stock.

Ordered the Centric brand from Rock Auto. Part # 12163021

Hopefully this solves the issue (the current one).

I'll let you know in a few days if they are correct.
 
Got it. Rotors from Carid were a perfec fit. Shields that I thought wouldn't fit are on as well.

Let's talk brake lines... I know the mc to distribution block lines have to be 3\16. What about the rest of the lines. I plan to buy a roll and hand form later on today.

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Check the anit-rattle clips, in this position they are likely going to scrub on the rotors...

I think they should be installed like this...

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left front.jpeg
 
Got it. Rotors from Carid were a perfec fit. Shields that I thought wouldn't fit are on as well.

Let's talk brake lines... I know the mc to distribution block lines have to be 3\16. What about the rest of the lines. I plan to buy a roll and hand form later on today.

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You will need the larger tubing all the way to the hose connection for the front brakes. Factory setup runs a heat dissipating spring from the forward distribution block to the brake hose connection.

Dave
 
You will need the larger tubing all the way to the hose connection for the front brakes. Factory setup runs a heat dissipating spring from the forward distribution block to the brake hose connection.

Dave
And here all these years I was told that the spring wrap lines were to make it easier for the factory assembly and prevent linking when bending them into the final installation
 
Here in Canada those spring covered lines really helped to sell replacement lines since once the road salt got into them they really caused a lot of rusted lines
 
And here all these years I was told that the spring wrap lines were to make it easier for the factory assembly and prevent linking when bending them into the final installation

That may also have been a consideration, but the primary reason was to dissipate heat in severe service applications.

Dave
 
I've never heard about the spring covering being to dissipate heat. I was always of the understanding it was just to prevent damage.

FWIW, Inline Tube calls their spring covering "Armour Guard" and Classic Tube and Right stuff calls their's "Gravel Guard".

Everything I've ever seen used in a C-body is 3/16" line which leads me to this question... Are the original lines shot? I've bent and formed a lot of brake line and if they need to be replaced, I would call Inline Tube and just get the prebent lines if it were me. Inline Tube - The Professional Restorer No1 Choice All the work is done and you don't have to take the time to do the double flares that can be troublesome to someone that hasn't done them before.
 
I've never heard about the spring covering being to dissipate heat. I was always of the understanding it was just to prevent damage.

FWIW, Inline Tube calls their spring covering "Armour Guard" and Classic Tube and Right stuff calls their's "Gravel Guard".

Everything I've ever seen used in a C-body is 3/16" line which leads me to this question... Are the original lines shot? I've bent and formed a lot of brake line and if they need to be replaced, I would call Inline Tube and just get the prebent lines if it were me. Inline Tube - The Professional Restorer No1 Choice All the work is done and you don't have to take the time to do the double flares that can be troublesome to someone that hasn't done them before.

I would be with Big John on getting the tubing from In line Tube, They do really nice work and all the "Gravel Guard or "Armour Guard" or whatever you want to call it is already installed and ready to bolt up. This makes line replacement a lot simpler if the fenders and engine are still installed on the car since you do not have to worry about any adjusting of the tubing in limited space areas. If you car already has the 3/16" tubing and it is in good shape, you would probably not need to replace it. You might have an issue with the fittings for the disc master cylinder as these were sometimes different than the ones for drum brakes.

Dave
 
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I do have a new front to back line from Inline Tube. Just wanted to make the rest while I'm at it. I'll go with 3\16.
 
Alright fellas... Conversion is done. And just in time too! One little thing to clean up though. When I was changing over to the disk brake pedal assembly I noticed there was no tip on the tail light sensor (what is this called?) See image. Where can I get one? Can I solder a new tip on? Ended up plugging the line into the one on the base but no luck there.

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Here are some images of the process. Some good (awaiting a bleed in the street because my garage isn't big enough for me to access all 4 tires at once). Some bad (maybe 50 bad flares before I got consistent).

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Alright fellas... Conversion is done. And just in time too! One little thing to clean up though. When I was changing over to the disk brake pedal assembly I noticed there was no tip on the tail light sensor (what is this called?) See image. Where can I get one? Can I solder a new tip on? Ended up plugging the line into the one on the base but no luck there.

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Brake light switch. NAPA etc should have one... or Rock Auto.
 
Here are some images of the process. Some good (awaiting a bleed in the street because my garage isn't big enough for me to access all 4 tires at once). Some bad (maybe 50 bad flares before I got consistent).

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Do not leave the cover off the master cylinder as the brake fluid will pick up moisture from the air. This will cause corrosion issues down the road. As John has noted the part you refer to is the brake light switch and you need a new one.

Dave
 
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