Broken flexplate or convertor?

Knebel

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I think it will probably be okay, but I have a set of ARP bolts here for when I do a new flexplate and converter. The 1200 stall is very not sufficient....
 

65CopCar

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Would you try this on if you're on a budget?

TORCO A727 Heavy Duty Non-Lockup 24 spline torque converter - 2200-2500 stall -10" Bolt Circle Diameter with Ring Gear - REMANUFACTURED https://a.co/d/1AcEhVl
Nope. I would call leading converter fokls and ask what they can do. I use Dynamic in Delaware.

Too much risk for the little difference in price.
 

fury fan

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Knebel - as you are going in there, installing a TC is no big deal.
But 65CopCar has a good point - if the TC fails later on, going in to replace it is not so convenient!
Evaluate if the extra $$ spent on a name brand is good insurance? (FWIW, I do not know who to recommend, I've never done a converter before)
 

Knebel

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Well a Hughes along with any other namebrand is about $500.. thats why im asking lol. After lots of reviews on different brands I arrived at hughes....too many TCI and b&m falling apart and destroying the trans stories
 

fury fan

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Even though I am generally a cheapskate (due to having kids and cars to feed), I find that spending $$ in the right places doesn't hurt the bottom line as much as I would expect.
One just needs to have good judgment on what those places are and prioritize. Spending an extra $300 now won't be regretted.

Based on your initial inquiry on a TC, I got curious of that landscape. Saw some references that PTC was a good brand, and looked at Cope Racing Transmissions, which is somewhat near me and has a stellar reputation. https://www.coperacingtrans.com/?product=ptc-11-inch-torque-converter

Seems the 'smaller' 11" converter that the factory used for higher-stall applications isn't available anymore, you'd need a core to supply to Cope.

I also saw some mention that a smaller/tight converter would be more efficient than a looser/larger one.
 

Knebel

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One more thing. What about lockup? Is it worth converting to a manual lockup with a button on the shifter? Or will that complicate things too much for too little benefit? I saw some Kits that are around 1000$ but include the trans shenanigans that are needed...
 

65CopCar

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Even though I am generally a cheapskate (due to having kids and cars to feed), I find that spending $$ in the right places doesn't hurt the bottom line as much as I would expect.
One just needs to have good judgment on what those places are and prioritize. Spending an extra $300 now won't be regretted.

Based on your initial inquiry on a TC, I got curious of that landscape. Saw some references that PTC was a good brand, and looked at Cope Racing Transmissions, which is somewhat near me and has a stellar reputation. https://www.coperacingtrans.com/?product=ptc-11-inch-torque-converter

Seems the 'smaller' 11" converter that the factory used for higher-stall applications isn't available anymore, you'd need a core to supply to Cope.

I also saw some mention that a smaller/tight converter would be more efficient than a looser/larger one.

Cope quality and customer service has seriously gone downhill. I don't know if its true, but I just read he no longer builds trannies just sells parts. He did one for a buddy 2 years or so ago and it had wrong parts inside.
 

fury fan

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Cope quality and customer service has seriously gone downhill. I don't know if its true, but I just read he no longer builds trannies just sells parts. He did one for a buddy 2 years or so ago and it had wrong parts inside.
I saw a video on his site last week, a Youtube clip, that he's no longer building transmissions as he's too busy and his quality of life is suffering due to the workload. Said he will be focusing on parts and aftermarket stuff instead.
 

fury fan

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One more thing. What about lockup? Is it worth converting to a manual lockup with a button on the shifter? Or will that complicate things too much for too little benefit? I saw some Kits that are around 1000$ but include the trans shenanigans that are needed...
I would want to have a LU converter if possible to drop some RPM and save some fuel. But that's just me.

But - you need the right trans for that.
Early A500 and A518 (IIRC must be 2nd or 3rd year of this one) were retrofittable with switches for OD and LU. (early 518s did not have LU)
I believe 727s (smallblock only) and 999s, at the tail end of production when the OD transmissions were being introduced, were also made with LU that could be manually controlled.
If you don't already have such a trans, I believe you'll have considerable expense that might not be worthwhile.
Either way, a performance LU converter will cost more $$ than a standard one.

70s-mid-80s (roughly) transmissions had LU controlled hydraulically and the actuation RPM likely would not be ideal. I don't think modifying one of those to manual control will be very practical. But maybe it's just a valve body change? Must be verified that the required switch in the trans housing could be installed, too.

FWIW - IIRC bigblock 727s only had lockup for a portion of 1 model year (1978 ???) and were warrantied out for performance/durability issues.
 

Knebel

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Interesting. I do not know what year my 727 is but I I know my block is a 76 or 78.... maybe the person who swapped the engine did the trans too...
 

fury fan

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70s-mid-80s (roughly) transmissions had LU controlled hydraulically and the actuation RPM likely would not be ideal. I don't think modifying one of those to manual control will be very practical.
To add to that -
My sole experience was driving a 1980 Diplomat wagon. That trans would shift into 3rd and LU simultaneously, at 35mph, no matter what the driving conditions were as long as it was less than full throttle.
 

Rustyrodknocker

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I have a fitech. Got that one when they first came out. I dont think its the sprag then...

Could one get the trans off under the car and replace the flexplate? How much ground clearance should I factor in? But to be real, i will probably just tighten it up now with a small spotweld on the bolt to flexplate and then do it right next winter. Meanwhile signing up for AAA haha
I pulled my trans out a couple summers ago. Just used 4 drive on ramps. Trans out in not much more than an hour.

If your going to put some stall in it you should probably go through the trans first.

But while we are on stall, if you have hiway gears they are even more of a pain in the *** than usual. A stall really sucks for daily driving especially in beaverton where there is a stoplight every 200 feet in all directions. I really see no point in these heavy high geared cars. You can however get some cheap stall with an rv converter. I ran one in my car for a couple years only because I matched what came with the engine until I did a rebuild after the pump seal gave out.

In my case with 276 gears you can find yourself competing with the converter at low mph in town.
Probably great in an rv with a 410 rear gear. You can get up in power range to get that heavy rig moving.
 
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