sport fury guy
Member
I have been kicking around an idea to convert my 67 sport fury vert with an automatic to a manual 4 speed. The question I have is where do I find the brake and clutch pedal combination and linkage to make this work.
If he can by some miracle of god find a clutch/power brake pedal assembly and a clutch pedal to z-bar rod and is willing to remove the left front fender so as to fabricate a z-bar mount on the stub fame, and is willing to fabricate a custom z-bar, I can walk him through it.Step 4. Milk Stan for all he knows.
It's not plug n play. You still have to do a ton of fiddling with it.You can use an after market Z bar from Summit
Didn't you document your work with photos and measurements so that other members can use the info?It's not plug n play. You still have to do a ton of fiddling with it.
The length of the z-bar. The clocking of the arms. The length of the arms. Alot of geometry to do it right.
The most common C-body z-bar was used in /6 3-spds. Totally different than a BB 4-spd. z-bar.

More or less. All the pics on the second 4spd conversion project were on a desktop that self destructed.Didn't you document your work with photos and measurements so that other members can use the info?![]()
second 4spd conversion project

66 Fury /6 3 spd to 440 4 spd.What second one? Which was first and which second?
I'm only familiar with the white NYB ... with the hood scoops![]()
Started in Boston, dragged it down here and continued the work.That's really cool looking and I'll bet really solid being a post car. Was that in New England?
I would fab this out of threaded rod and heims endsa clutch pedal to z-bar rod
is willing to fabricate a custom z-bar
After the Z-bar, it's all B-body. Get to that point and it's a pc of cake.The pedals are definitely C body specific but clutch fork and its pivot in the bell housing I would look for 66 up B body stuff it is common and has no weird bends like the earlier B body stuff.
The rust repair became overwhelming and my welding skills were horrible.Very cool, what became of it?
After the Z-bar, it's all B-body. Get to that point and it's a pc of cake.
I used the /6 3 spd z-bar. I cut it in the middle and welded it back the the correct width and clocking in one shot. Arms weren't touched. Clocking was very minor. Maybe 10°.Is /6 z bar shorter, clocked differently, arms different than BB. I cut up a /6 a body one for my Barracuda years ago and re-clocked it but arm and tube length are same and the engine was not in the car in the right spot. Which I'm sure affected the clocking. I still have the z bar and when I compared it to my b body one my mods have it clocked the same.
Good to know, never know when it will be needed.I used the /6 3 spd z-bar. I cut it in the middle and welded it back the the correct width and clocking in one shot. Arms weren't touched.
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