sport fury guy
New Member
I have been kicking around an idea to convert my 67 sport fury vert with an automatic to a manual 4 speed. The question I have is where do I find the brake and clutch pedal combination and linkage to make this work.
If he can by some miracle of god find a clutch/power brake pedal assembly and a clutch pedal to z-bar rod and is willing to remove the left front fender so as to fabricate a z-bar mount on the stub fame, and is willing to fabricate a custom z-bar, I can walk him through it.Step 4. Milk Stan for all he knows.
It's not plug n play. You still have to do a ton of fiddling with it.You can use an after market Z bar from Summit
Didn't you document your work with photos and measurements so that other members can use the info?It's not plug n play. You still have to do a ton of fiddling with it.
The length of the z-bar. The clocking of the arms. The length of the arms. Alot of geometry to do it right.
The most common C-body z-bar was used in /6 3-spds. Totally different than a BB 4-spd. z-bar.
More or less. All the pics on the second 4spd conversion project were on a desktop that self destructed.Didn't you document your work with photos and measurements so that other members can use the info?
second 4spd conversion project
66 Fury /6 3 spd to 440 4 spd.What second one? Which was first and which second?
I'm only familiar with the white NYB ... with the hood scoops
Started in Boston, dragged it down here and continued the work.That's really cool looking and I'll bet really solid being a post car. Was that in New England?
I would fab this out of threaded rod and heims endsa clutch pedal to z-bar rod
is willing to fabricate a custom z-bar
After the Z-bar, it's all B-body. Get to that point and it's a pc of cake.The pedals are definitely C body specific but clutch fork and its pivot in the bell housing I would look for 66 up B body stuff it is common and has no weird bends like the earlier B body stuff.
The rust repair became overwhelming and my welding skills were horrible.Very cool, what became of it?
After the Z-bar, it's all B-body. Get to that point and it's a pc of cake.
I used the /6 3 spd z-bar. I cut it in the middle and welded it back the the correct width and clocking in one shot. Arms weren't touched. Clocking was very minor. Maybe 10°.Is /6 z bar shorter, clocked differently, arms different than BB. I cut up a /6 a body one for my Barracuda years ago and re-clocked it but arm and tube length are same and the engine was not in the car in the right spot. Which I'm sure affected the clocking. I still have the z bar and when I compared it to my b body one my mods have it clocked the same.
Good to know, never know when it will be needed.I used the /6 3 spd z-bar. I cut it in the middle and welded it back the the correct width and clocking in one shot. Arms weren't touched.
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