convert automatic transmission to a manual 4 speed

sport fury guy

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I have been kicking around an idea to convert my 67 sport fury vert with an automatic to a manual 4 speed. The question I have is where do I find the brake and clutch pedal combination and linkage to make this work.
 
Step 1. Tell this forum what you want to do. Check

Step 2. Put up WANTED ad on FCBO.

Step 3. Put up WANTED ad on CL.

Step 4. Milk Stan for all he knows.

Step 5. Win
 
Step 4. Milk Stan for all he knows.
If he can by some miracle of god find a clutch/power brake pedal assembly and a clutch pedal to z-bar rod and is willing to remove the left front fender so as to fabricate a z-bar mount on the stub fame, and is willing to fabricate a custom z-bar, I can walk him through it.
I'll be right here waiting for that miracle of god...
 
You can use an after market Z bar from Summit, the pedal assembly is the difficult part.
 
You can use an after market Z bar from Summit
It's not plug n play. You still have to do a ton of fiddling with it.
The length of the z-bar. The clocking of the arms. The length of the arms. Alot of geometry to do it right.
The most common C-body z-bar was used in /6 3-spds. Totally different than a BB 4-spd. z-bar.
 
It's not plug n play. You still have to do a ton of fiddling with it.
The length of the z-bar. The clocking of the arms. The length of the arms. Alot of geometry to do it right.
The most common C-body z-bar was used in /6 3-spds. Totally different than a BB 4-spd. z-bar.
Didn't you document your work with photos and measurements so that other members can use the info? :poke:
 
What second one? Which was first and which second?

I'm only familiar with the white NYB ... with the hood scoops :poke:
66 Fury /6 3 spd to 440 4 spd.

stan.jpg
 
I love the look of that one. I guess the thrill was over once it was complete, or did the formal steal your heart?
 
a clutch pedal to z-bar rod
I would fab this out of threaded rod and heims ends
is willing to fabricate a custom z-bar

I would fab this also out of a piece of tubing and flat stock for the arms, holes drilled to bolts heims ends to it

Keep the tubing the correct diameter to use the stock ball studs and plastic bearings.

The pedals are definitely C body specific but clutch fork and its pivot in the bell housing I would look for 66 up B body stuff it is common and has no weird bends like the earlier B body stuff.
 
The pedals are definitely C body specific but clutch fork and its pivot in the bell housing I would look for 66 up B body stuff it is common and has no weird bends like the earlier B body stuff.
After the Z-bar, it's all B-body. Get to that point and it's a pc of cake.
 
Very cool, what became of it?
The rust repair became overwhelming and my welding skills were horrible.
It went to a guy in the upper mid west who said the bodywork wasn't a probem. It disappeared after that and I Google weekly trying to find what happened to it.
AWESOME barebones sleeper.
 
After the Z-bar, it's all B-body. Get to that point and it's a pc of cake.

Is /6 z bar shorter, clocked differently, arms different than BB. I cut up a /6 a body one for my Barracuda years ago and re-clocked it but arm and tube length are same and the engine was not in the car in the right spot. Which I'm sure affected the clocking. I still have the z bar and when I compared it to my b body one my mods have it clocked the same.
 
Is /6 z bar shorter, clocked differently, arms different than BB. I cut up a /6 a body one for my Barracuda years ago and re-clocked it but arm and tube length are same and the engine was not in the car in the right spot. Which I'm sure affected the clocking. I still have the z bar and when I compared it to my b body one my mods have it clocked the same.
I used the /6 3 spd z-bar. I cut it in the middle and welded it back the the correct width and clocking in one shot. Arms weren't touched. Clocking was very minor. Maybe 10°.
PicsArt_09-10-12.00.46.jpg
 
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Hi,
I've been reading post on this site for loong time. First time posting for me.

I've done the conversion on my 67 300. the car ain't nice, but fun to drive.
Started with a manual brake clucth pedal. The pedal came from a 67Fury. It is faily easy to modify manual brake pedal to power brake.
I guess that the rod between clutch pedal and Z-bar is Cbody only.

I've mod my Z-bar from picture/tryout. took a while. Summit Z-bar didn't work(I sent it back). Z-bar that I modified came from a Mopar meet show. Searching thru pile of stuff, I find a Z-bar that was too long and the ear were also too long. The seller didn't know the car it was in.

Fork came from Brewer's, with bell number(I was Lucky enough to have the correct bell), they gave me the correct fork.
Brewer's help me a lot. I order a lot of clips, bolt, spring, washer, etc, from them.

Floor hump was from Harm's or something.
My new carpet didn't fit perfectly(even if I orderer it as such from manufacturer)

Hurst shiter(new) fit perfectly right and work great.

NB
engine is 505/stealth head, Comp cam XE275HL, 800 AVS, TM7, hedman's shorty.
Trans is 833 alu OD with bushed countershaft, centerforce clutch.
3.23 detroit locker

IMG_2895.JPG
 
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