heyoldguy
Member
As to casting related issues, we have ported both the Stealth and RPM heads into the 345+ cfm range and have found both to be quality castings, without voids, inclusions or porosity. I can't say the same about some others.
Cylinder head questions
- Thread starter 72Fury
- Start date
As to casting related issues, we have ported both the Stealth and RPM heads into the 345+ cfm range and have found both to be quality castings, without voids, inclusions or porosity. I can't say the same about some others.
Moparhead
Member
looks like I'm going to be on the hook for it, he wants me to build his motor lol I'm good about checking and rechecking during assembly, if it's a failure it won't be from parts interference ;)
Moparhead
Member
I'm with ya ;) keep in mind that weight is power too. I'm not saying reduce the luxury of these classy cars, but there are savings to be had without changing the character of the car. Even though these cars are hefty, if you can shave 200-300 lbs then you are in the weight range of an SRT Charger, and last I checked they haul *** ;)
heyoldguy
Member
The one interference issue I worry about on the Stealth head, I believe has already been mentioned, pushrod clearance. Chose a cam that you can run 1.5 ratio rocker arms and use 5/16 diameter pushrods if you can. I always have to clearance the outside of the intake runner when using 1.6 rockers and 3/8 pushrods.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I think that H beam rods are overkill for what you are building, the stock rods would be fine but if you can budget for new I beam rods its good insurance and if you really want H beam go for it. As far as pistons go follow has2bmopar's advice compression distance in the 2.00 range you really don't need forged pistons unless you going over 6000 rpm a lot and the combo you are describing, no big cam, no big heads, no big converter, no big gears they are just uneeded but its your money. I live about 20 mi from extrude hone in Irwin pa. my bro in laws dad worked there for a time that is more for polishing it really won't remove the bumps and core shift it will remove material evenly so a bump will still be a bump just smoother. I would use your 346 heads, they have partial hardend seats and you know they fit definatly put one piece valves in cheap insurance and will give you a flow improvement at low lifts, if you have a compressor and a die grinder buy some bits and do a little work yourself there are books, articles, youtube just remember when in doubt don't grind it out, lastly a good valve job by someone who knows what they are doing. There is a thread over on for FBBO "iron head test starting on '78 440" look it up read it then decide, its amazing kinda like a expose' that the magazines and their advertisers don't want you to know, have fun and good luck.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
heyoldguy is dead on with everything he said.
But are we Bracket Racing or street cruisin?
Pick your poison on the aluminum heads, or...
you can stay with your iron heads, send them to Compuflow for $850 and get a damn good flowing head plus with the original heads, there are no quality a/o fitment issues. No stripped threads.
I'm maintaining a common sense stand on this. Unless you're looking for another 1/2 second at the track (1 second at most?), it's more about ego than performance. C'mon... 1/2 second on a C-body? Who races them? The 2% that do% Fine. I'm all for it. The other 98%?.......
"Ooooooo.... aluminum heads!!!!!"
I'll paint mine "Cast Aluminum" and get the same reaction for $5.98. If I'm flush with too much money that day, I may even send them to Compuflow.
Nobody scoffed at how the 440 six packs ran on the street.
But are we Bracket Racing or street cruisin?
Pick your poison on the aluminum heads, or...
you can stay with your iron heads, send them to Compuflow for $850 and get a damn good flowing head plus with the original heads, there are no quality a/o fitment issues. No stripped threads.
I'm maintaining a common sense stand on this. Unless you're looking for another 1/2 second at the track (1 second at most?), it's more about ego than performance. C'mon... 1/2 second on a C-body? Who races them? The 2% that do% Fine. I'm all for it. The other 98%?.......
"Ooooooo.... aluminum heads!!!!!"
I'll paint mine "Cast Aluminum" and get the same reaction for $5.98. If I'm flush with too much money that day, I may even send them to Compuflow.
Nobody scoffed at how the 440 six packs ran on the street.
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heyoldguy
Member
Common sense? Really? I don't know what we are doing, but I am racing everything in the barn. I would love to see what the '73 Monaco would do on the chassis dyno at the Mopar Nationals in Columbus, Ohio next year.
Moparhead
Member
I actually painted my Eddys engine color so they wouldn't jump out and scream aluminum, same with the aluminum intake. I also painted my aluminum radiator black so at a quick glance it looks stock ;) I don't have oodles of cash either but aluminum heads are more than for bragging rights. That said, Chrysler made some good flowing iron heads and that's what I have on most of my motors.
F it......Ray Barton works for me. LOL! 
Moparhead
Member
F it......Ray Barton works for me. LOL!
lol!! That's a serious power plant!
Yep! If it was mine......it have to go in a B or E. LOL!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
How does it idle....
No problem.........550 RPM's. LOL!
72Fury
Senior Member
Do you mean that it's actually ok to drive these things?
Moparhead
Member
Theres about as many variations on the definition of 'streetable' as there are languages ;) It really comes down to what you are willing to deal with, within the confines of your local law of course. When I was a teenager I drove a car with a fairly radical 340 and 4.88 gears. To me (at the time) cruising the highway at 4000 rpm while hunting for 110 octane gas for the 12:1 combustion was 'streetable' lol Now, not so much ;)
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Agreed I will give up 5/10 of a second in a instant but I'm not riding down the highway at 4000 @ 60mph I'm not even interested in 3.55, 3.23 are as low as I'm going in a street car / or a overdrive.
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