Door Adjustment

Gregg Benedict

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The drivers door on my '58 Imperial doesn't close right. It actually binds a bit and doesn't close flush with the 1/4 panel as it should. I want to make some adjustments and want to know what I can loosen easily and shift slightly to get a better fit. Can all the strikers, latches and hinges be loosened without removing the interior door card panels? Like, are there nuts on the back of all the bolts and screws shown here. I'm including some pictures to show what parts I'm wondering about. The strikers on the 1/4 panel in the 3rd picture are probably the parts most likely out of adjustment, but I'm not sure:

Door_1.jpg
Door_2.jpg
Door_3.jpg
 
Usually, any nuts on the back of the panel are caged so they can't drop away. KEY thing is to just loosen, not remove the bolts!

Now, how long have those things been in that condition?

As to the striker, first look at the condition of the weatherstrips at the bottom of the A-pillar and the front of door weatherstrips. Their condition, amount of compression, and SHAPE can indicate if just adjusting the striker in a bit can be done without any issues.

What about the window and quarter glass vertical molding/weatherstrip interface? Is the window glass "gapped" or against the quarter window?

What about the interface of the door glass and the roof rail weatherstrip? Do things meet well there or are they similarly "gapped"?

In your initial look-see, see if you can determine IF the latch is not the real culprit. Not allowing the door to fully be latched as it should be. Especially if this is a recently new situation.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Usually, any nuts on the back of the panel are caged so they can't drop away. KEY thing is to just loosen, not remove the bolts!

Now, how long have those things been in that condition?

As to the striker, first look at the condition of the weatherstrips at the bottom of the A-pillar and the front of door weatherstrips. Their condition, amount of compression, and SHAPE can indicate if just adjusting the striker in a bit can be done without any issues.

What about the window and quarter glass vertical molding/weatherstrip interface? Is the window glass "gapped" or against the quarter window?

What about the interface of the door glass and the roof rail weatherstrip? Do things meet well there or are they similarly "gapped"?

In your initial look-see, see if you can determine IF the latch is not the real culprit. Not allowing the door to fully be latched as it should be. Especially if this is a recently new situation.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

From what I can tell, everything else looks to be aligned from these other aspects mentioned. None of the weatherstrips are showing any noticeable irregularities either. The door has always closed like this since I owned the car, so I'm not exactly sure how long the problem has endured. However, I'm sick of looking at this misalignment and would like to correct it. I can get some additional pictures posted in a couple days.
 
From what I can tell, everything else looks to be aligned from these other aspects mentioned. None of the weatherstrips are showing any noticeable irregularities either. The door has always closed like this since I owned the car, so I'm not exactly sure how long the problem has endured. However, I'm sick of looking at this misalignment and would like to correct it. I can get some additional pictures posted in a couple days.
Then start with the striker plate, moving it abt 1/8" or so and see how everything looks then. If good, proceed a bit more. A cut and try method, of sorts. If things start to look flaky, stop and re-evaluate anything further. Any changes probably need to be gradual so the existing weatherstrip can adjust to them.

Keep us posted,
CBODY67
 
Start with lubricating the latches and hinges. Don't use WD40 use a real lubricant that lasts.

Just loosen the striker and move it in, don't remove any bolts. Same with hinges.

If it is anything like a non Imperial 58 Chrysler then don't even start with the hinges. Hinges are mounted an angles and the in and out also changes fore and aft. Tricky to get them right and few cars you see have the doors fitting well.
 
Howdy. Yes these doors are a pain to get right just look at un touched doors they all stick out at the bottom. I lost his number but there is a guy in Northern Idaho that can get them correct. He cured my buddies 57 300, cost a bundle but his doors were perfect.
PS I'm currently trying to get my 62 300 passenger door correct.
 
A 1962 is easy compared to a late 50's Chrysler
 
Howdy. You are correct my 58 300D is 2nd in line, and then I get to play with those doors.
 
Greetings!I thought I was alone with this issue. The driver's door on my '57C looks like a bit wonky The front at the A pillar aligns perfectly, yet the back edge is, well..........you know. The passenger side door is in perfect alignment. Chrysler fit and finish with "Suddenly its 1960?"
 
Greetings!I thought I was alone with this issue. The driver's door on my '57C looks like a bit wonky The front at the A pillar aligns perfectly, yet the back edge is, well..........you know. The passenger side door is in perfect alignment. Chrysler fit and finish with "Suddenly its 1960?"
Remember on most all models. Adjust one hinge at a time. For example adust up and down by loose ing top bolts on car frame, not door. Adjust as needed, then tighten.
Move to bottom hinge and loosen bolts on car frame and adjust back and forward then tighten. This is where a service manual helps
 
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