Drilled for 4 speed or not?

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Can anyone please tell me what the correct measurement s for the hole in which the crankshaft is supposed to have for a 4 speed in the rear of a 383 Crankshaft? I have a rough measurement from the 383 engine which came from my 65 Sport Fury which came with a 727 automatic and the 440 which came in a 65 parts car which I purchased with all the 4 speed stuff not installed. It seems as though the 4 speed would have never worked with the 440 as it doesn't have any hole in the crankshaft. My 383 has a hole which is approximately .900". Rough measurement because it is deeper than my caliper will reach plus it is on an engine stand.

Thanks guys! :)
 
Go buy a pilot bushing (that you need anyway), and measure the O.D. and the length of the bushing. Therein lies the answer.
 
On a crank that is prepared for a standard trans, Depth of the drilled hole is 1.800 inch by .938 inch to a depth of .975 then it necks down some what in the unmachined portion deeper in the hole
 
On a crank that is prepared for a standard trans, Depth of the drilled hole is 1.800 inch by .938 inch to a depth of .975 then it necks down some what in the unmachined portion deeper in the hole

Thank you for more of a technical answer than go buy a bushing. That is what I come here for. Thank you Max
 
Go buy a pilot bushing (that you need anyway), and measure the O.D. and the length of the bushing. Therein lies the answer.
Shame on you Fury Pursuit, for suggesting the OP do something that was probably done ten thousand times for the past 60 or so years with perfect results.
:mob:
 
Those knowledgeable folks with the answer usually are glad to provide the specific answer as I gladly do on Forums I know the answers on. Would rather know the measurements and mic it then go buy parts unnecessarily.
 
well save your measuring and get the jeep style needle bearing that fits in the torque converter hub reg hole . napa p# fc69907 . or get it straight from a chrysler dealer . and i cut the end of the input shaft @ 5/8'' and use the jeep bearing so they all can interchange between auto and stick cranks .
 
^^^^^^^^^^
X2 works 1000 times better than the bushing it's invisible, keeping the OEM gestapo at bay. Never had a clutch even think about chattering no matter how long in traffic with bearing.
If trans fits without cutting input you don't have to cut it.
 
well save your measuring and get the jeep style needle bearing that fits in the torque converter hub reg hole . napa p# fc69907 . or get it straight from a chrysler dealer . and i cut the end of the input shaft @ 5/8'' and use the jeep bearing so they all can interchange between auto and stick cranks .
Wish I'd know that back in the day. In the early 1980's I pulled the 727 out of my R/T with the intent of a 4 speed conversion. To my surprise, no pilot shaft hole in the crank of the 383. Bought a bushing, borrowed a machinist's big *** hand drill and big *** bit, lined her up, closed one eye and had at it. Glad to see old school still works around here.
 
Shame on you Fury Pursuit, for suggesting the OP do something that was probably done ten thousand times for the past 60 or so years with perfect results.
:mob:

It seemed like a reasonable response, considering that the OP needs the part to be installed,......and that's how you install sleeves, bushings, bearings, pistons.
 
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well save your measuring and get the jeep style needle bearing that fits in the torque converter hub reg hole . napa p# fc69907 . or get it straight from a chrysler dealer . and i cut the end of the input shaft @ 5/8'' and use the jeep bearing so they all can interchange between auto and stick cranks .

Cool! I'll look into that. Thanks.
 
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