Dyno day, new motor for my ‘68 Fury!

Blusmbl

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This has been in the making since 2023, but my motor finally went on the dyno yesterday and couldn’t be happier with the results! I spec’d almost everything, a friend assembled it, and it was dynoed here in Detroit at Moran Motorsports.

It’s a 540”, 4.5 bore x 4.25 stroke. Callies block, Molnar crank/rods, Diamond 11.0:1 pistons, Trick Flow 270 heads, decent sized solid roller cam with circle track lobes so it's easy on parts. Indy intake, 1050 quick fuel carb.

Had some issues with leaks, and a rocker adjuster backed off, but we got it all squared away except for a casting flaw in the water pump housing, and made about 10 pulls over 2 days. Also used the C body TTI headers on the dyno, and VP MS109 fuel. Even drove the Fury there the first day, hoping for good luck.

Final results were 742 hp/713ish Ftlbs. It way exceeded my expectations, it idles well, is snappy, and the valvetrain is quieter than the motor currently in the car!


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I didn't know it was going into a Fury!

And from the other Forum, my 505 never made it into the car yet. Got derailed during my move to the new house but should get back on it early next year.
 
Those are some great numbers. I can’t wait to see it in the car. What are you doing for the transmission?
 
This has been in the making since 2023, but my motor finally went on the dyno yesterday and couldn’t be happier with the results! I spec’d almost everything, a friend assembled it, and it was dynoed here in Detroit at Moran Motorsports.

It’s a 540”, 4.5 bore x 4.25 stroke. Callies block, Molnar crank/rods, Diamond 11.0:1 pistons, Trick Flow 270 heads, decent sized solid roller cam with circle track lobes so it's easy on parts. Indy intake, 1050 quick fuel carb.

Had some issues with leaks, and a rocker adjuster backed off, but we got it all squared away except for a casting flaw in the water pump housing, and made about 10 pulls over 2 days. Also used the C body TTI headers on the dyno, and VP MS109 fuel. Even drove the Fury there the first day, hoping for good luck.

Final results were 742 hp/713ish Ftlbs. It way exceeded my expectations, it idles well, is snappy, and the valvetrain is quieter than the motor currently in the car!


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Those are some strong numbers. Congrats. Nicely done.
 
Thats quite a powerplant. Whats your intended use of the car?? It has a prostreet look now, and clearly has the sleeper look for the dragstrip. Put some proper mufflers on it and ill bet you break a lot of hearts at the track with it. :thumbsup:
Fast land yachts are always a crowd pleaser. Nice job.
 
Thanks!! 65CopCar, yeah. It’s better suited for an A or B body, but I’ve loved C bodies forever and wanted to take mine up a few notches and still have something semi-reliable that shouldn’t need a ton of maintenance. From what I’ve been told the MS109 is oxegenated and worth 15-20 hp on it’s own, so our motors are pretty much identical for power, assume mine just peaked a little earlier than yours because of the displacement difference.

For the trans, it currently has a 727 that came out of a car I owned in high school, a ‘67 Imperial. Has the old school cheetah reverse pattern manual valve body (with a stock drum that scares me, no low band apply!!) and I shift it on the column. When the new motor goes in the trans will get redone too, have all the parts already. Billet input/output shafts, lightened steel drum, griner trans brake valve body, 16 roller sprag, and a tighter converter.

Lefty, I did Roadkill Nights a few years in a row and Sick Summer with it in 23. I don’t think I’m going to do another drag and drive with it since it isn’t really competitive for any of the classes, but wanted to go quicker. It’s mostly just a fast-ish street car I take out to cruises and work once in a while. It’s gone 12.40’s on motor and 11.30’s a couple times with a nitrous plate kit, hoping with the new motor it will go real low 11’s, and then low 10’s on spray. The plate will be on it, and the rings are gapped for up to ~350. Depending on how close it is I might try to get it in the 9’s in a couple years, but that is super lofty and I don’t wanna burn the engine up all the time chasing it, so we’ll see. It already has a Dana 60, caltracs, monoleafs and double adjustable shocks, and a 3.5” driveshaft, so the rest of the car should be able to handle the power. It has a drag radial on the rear and it hooks up really well at the track!
 
But you should be running manifolds not heaters to get good torque for these heavy cars...

:P

I love it. Only thing better would be a big T6 on it...
 
For the trans, it currently has a 727 that came out of a car I owned in high school, a ‘67 Imperial. Has the old school cheetah reverse pattern manual valve body (with a stock drum that scares me, no low band apply!!) and I shift it on the column. When the new motor goes in the trans will get redone too, have all the parts already. Billet input/output shafts, lightened steel drum, griner trans brake valve body, 16 roller sprag, and a tighter converter.
Yeah not having low band apply can be an issue if something brakes and the transmission free revs. Let me know if you want help with the transmission upgrade. We are only about an hour apart and I have the tools and experience to build that transmission.
 
But you should be running manifolds not heaters to get good torque for these heavy cars...

:p

I love it. Only thing better would be a big T6 on it...

I was worried the small-ish primary headers were going to be a restriction, so we actively chose a narrower LSA for the cam because of it to prioritize the midrange, but I then went big with the intake and carb in a hope it would carry the power out a little further. Super happy with it, it's making 700 hp at like 5200 and carries that to where we shut it off around 6600. Could do more with better heads, a wider LSA cam, and larger headers, but I think it's going to work well in the car as is, and keeping it under 7k will be good for valvetrain life!

The longblock should be easily fine for 1000+ with a procharger or turbo and that might be something I switch to down the road, would definitely go EFI then. Plenty of room for turbo plumbing under there and I think you can even buy big block turbo headers now...

Monc440, thanks- I have somebody lined up to build the trans already but if that falls through I'll get in contact with you for sure. Appreciate it!
 
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