EFI fuel system

[Stephen Richins]

I am going to put a holley or fitech EFI on my 68 Imperial. From what I can find an inline fuel pump or a surge tank are my only options. I wanted to do an In tank retro fit module but there is not room to install one in the top of the tank unless I do some goofy stuff to drop the tank lower. I see there are some modules that replace the sending units but they only make them for A, B & E bodies. Has anyone tried one of those as some of the fuel tanks fornthe 68-70 B-bodies look similar shape to the c body tank but smaller. Has anyone tried this or what have people been doing for EFI fuel supply on the c bodies

 

[CBODY67]

I suspect the fuel pump/sending unit for the B-body might work as the one B-body tank that has been used on a C-body (by a few people in here, or there) is a birt shorter, but mainly narrower than the normal '66-'73 C-body tank.

The problem with the surge tank is that you have to have a place to put it under the hood. Which would take some remodeling of lines and such to get things out of the way. A good concept, though.

In about the 1973 model year, California-emissions Imperials of that year used an auxiliary "booster" pump back by the fuel tank. Then the normal pump on the engine. THAT, plus the underhood "tank/pump" might be good to do?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[HOT FURY]

If you tank is like mine in my 66 SF this one almost goes in well, sorry I cant picture your tank. Same shape and dimensions other than a couple inches narrower. FI ready!

1968-70 Dodge Coronet / Plymouth Roadrunner Fuel Injection Gas Tank

 

[Stephen Richins]

I am going to see how the drop in module for the B body works & worst case scenario ill have to buy a B body tank & lose 4 gallons of fuel capacity. I'll let you guys know how things go. I ordered a holley sniper 2 kit today & a fuel pump/sending unit module for a B body

 

[furious70]

Fwiw I've been using a walbro 255 hanging on the frame for my mpi efi turbocharged 383 since 2009.
But an in tank unit would be quieter and cooler running

 

[Blusmbl]

I checked a B body sending unit in my C tank. It's close but not quite the same, you might have to tweak the angle on the float arm and where the pump is very, very slightly, but you should be able to get it to work. Good luck!

 

[Darby]

I am going to put a holley or fitech EFI on my 68 Imperial. From what I can find an inline fuel pump or a surge tank are my only options. I wanted to do an In tank retro fit module but there is not room to install one in the top of the tank unless I do some goofy stuff to drop the tank lower. I see there are some modules that replace the sending units but they only make them for A, B & E bodies. Has anyone tried one of those as some of the fuel tanks fornthe 68-70 B-bodies look similar shape to the c body tank but smaller. Has anyone tried this or what have people been doing for EFI fuel supply on the c bodies

I also had plans to go with Holley or FiTech, I was leaning more towards the FiTech for a while. I ended up going with a Sniper because I could get the entire Hyperspark ignition system and the in-tank pump/sending unit from them instead of mixing brands. Two or three years after I purchased everything (WAY out of warranty), the car was wired and running. About 5 months later it wouldn’t run, the Sniper failed. Because I had a receipt for everything (proof of purchase showing it wasn’t purchased used) and a video on my YouTube channel of the first start (they watched it), Holley replaced the Sniper with a Sniper 2. Tech support was awesome, after I called them and we emailed each other a couple times, they even called me for info. They gave me everything I needed, including the wire that goes to my laptop (I had that with the Sniper 1). It now runs great and I’m glad I went with everything from Holley!!
Now to your question; I went with the B-body pump you mentioned. My tank is new (came from Van’s). The only differences I saw was the tube that sticks out for the fuel line is turned different, wasn’t a problem at all. The other difference is the disc/plate that seals against the o-ring, it’s about an 1/8 inch smaller. This also wasn’t a problem, I centered it in the opening and turned the locking ring to secure it. It’s locked down, doesn’t move, and doesn’t leak. I think the in tank pump is the way to go, it’s also the fuel pressure regulator and bleeds off the extra fuel onto the mat to help keep from sucking air. ALSO: no return line needed!!!
Here’s a picture of the finished product. If interested, I have a thread on here of the build (1965 Sport Fury Restoration)

 

[Stephen Richins]

I also had plans to go with Holley or FiTech, I was leaning more towards the FiTech for a while. I ended up going with a Sniper because I could get the entire Hyperspark ignition system and the in-tank pump/sending unit from them instead of mixing brands. Two or three years after I purchased everything (WAY out of warranty), the car was wired and running. About 5 months later it wouldn’t run, the Sniper failed. Because I had a receipt for everything (proof of purchase showing it wasn’t purchased used) and a video on my YouTube channel of the first start (they watched it), Holley replaced the Sniper with a Sniper 2. Tech support was awesome, after I called them and we emailed each other a couple times, they even called me for info. They gave me everything I needed, including the wire that goes to my laptop (I had that with the Sniper 1). It now runs great and I’m glad I went with everything from Holley!!
Now to your question; I went with the B-body pump you mentioned. My tank is new (came from Van’s). The only differences I saw was the tube that sticks out for the fuel line is turned different, wasn’t a problem at all. The other difference is the disc/plate that seals against the o-ring, it’s about an 1/8 inch smaller. This also wasn’t a problem, I centered it in the opening and turned the locking ring to secure it. It’s locked down, doesn’t move, and doesn’t leak. I think the in tank pump is the way to go, it’s also the fuel pressure regulator and bleeds off the extra fuel onto the mat to help keep from sucking air. ALSO: no return line needed!!!
Here’s a picture of the finished product. If interested, I have a thread on here of the build (1965 Sport Fury Restoration)View attachment 733812

I almost went with fitech but ended up pulling the trigger on the Holley a couple days ago mainly for similar reasons you stated. I liked the fact that I can get their Hyperspark ignition & the in tank module.

 

[Darby]

A

I almost went with fitech but ended up pulling the trigger on the Holley a couple days ago mainly for similar reasons you started. I liked the fact that I can get their Hyperspark ignition & the in tank module.

Awesome, make sure you follow the directions to a T. Proper grounds are vital.
When my car is on the road, I have a place that’ll dyno tune it for me. I have a basic tune in it now and it runs great, it'll be an exciting day to see it on a chassis dyno. I had it on an engine dyno several years ago with a carb, it’ll turn 450hp and 530tq.
I’m in a FB group “Sniper EFI tuning” (or something like that), you might want to check that out, lots of info and help.