Electric fan recommendations?

[Knebel]

The Spals are rated under restriction. They pull their rated 2200cfm or whatever through the radiator. I would have expected the FFD to be rated freeflow at 3600cfm and fall in the 2800cfm category with restrictions but nooooo. They said they rate their fans on the bench at 14.8volts freeflow. Thats crap, i told them, I drive in the real worls and not on a bench. They were overall very hostile to deal with and no way for a refund.

I had a new radiator cap that i found out wasn't sealing at all, so I corrected that as well.

I have tried to add two 11" mishimoto HD pushers. That reduced temps pretty good and helped not have the extra amp draw at idle. I then got a 2x11" fanshroud and removed the 16" spal and only run the two 11" mishimotos as pullers with the shroud. So far it works ok but I feel it needs something else.... the fans are beasts. I believe spal produces the same fan rated at 1300cfm and the mishimotos are rated at 1600cfm each.

I currently have a 180° thermostat and I am wondering.... if I put in a 195° and let my fan come on at 200 and off at 195 would that give me better cooling than that 180 being far more open at that 195 to 200° point so I have less reserve of colder coolant in the radiator???

 

[fury fan]

From a thermodynamics perspective, there are way too many equations involved in the whole system for us to determine whether a change in T-stat rating would change the overall equilibrium temperature.
Higher-temp T-stats make the radiator's heat-transfer more efficient by creating a higher temperature differential - the heat transfer rate is faster when the difference in temperature is greater.
But this does not guarantee that the outlet temperature coming from the radiator's exit is lower. In fact, if given the same amount of time in the radiator, it will exit hotter - even though more BTUs have been removed.
Higher inlet temperature helps the radiator shed more heat - but by the same token, it holds the coolant in the engine longer, increasing its coolant temperature, and making heat transfer there less efficient.

We could go on all day about it and still not get an accurate answer.

I would recommend to take temperatures at a variety of places with an infrared-pointer tool, and record those temperatures with a 180 and then a 195.
Watch/record ambient temperature too, of course.

 

[Knebel]

So I do have about 195° on the tstat housing when I see 195 on the gauge. On a normal 75° day I will have that 195 input in the rad and a 160° output when the fans are running. Thats not the case when ambient temps rise into the 90s. Then the difference becomes more marginal like 200in and 190out or so and even slimmer with the heat from the AC. The radiator is a 22x18 with two 1" rows rated for 450hp. I don't think I make more than that lol or even be close. Maybe I just worry too much and should just be driving it as long as I dont see 240°?