Freezing over in heater box ?

Unix

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Hey guys,

i have my AC running on 134 for over a year now (everything is new, RV2 compressor, radiator (not original - much smaller, some universal chinnese crap), expansion, dryer etc), and it cools great.

When it's on for longer (say 1h +) it's starts to cool weaker, and air from the vents does not flow as much. The cure is to switch it off for 2-3 mins and back on. During this time i have water leaking onto my carpet from beneath the dash (heater box area). I believe it's freezing over.

The problem i am having is, that when i turn the car off, it leaks (probably melts all the ice from the heater box) A LOT of water from underneath the car (which is ok) onto the pavement. It's a lot of water, like over a gallon. The real problem is, a lot of the water leaks into the cockpit, usually onto the passenger floor (wet carpet), but if the car is tilted to the back, it really floods the inside of the car. I mean FLOODS - like over a gallon of clean water.

What could be the problem ? The water passage from the heater box is blocked, or too small for the water to escape?

Please let me know.

I am now sacrificing comfort, so as not to flood my carpet. The problem has much instensified in very hot (+90F ) and humid air.

What to do ?

cheers for any input :)
 
Sounds like the drain tube is blocked or to small. and also the box might need to be resealsed. Yes it sucks.
 
To fix the leaks inside the car get a gasket kit from DMT: Mopar C Body 69-73 AC Heater Box Rebuild Restoration Seal Gasket Kit
Screenshot_20230823-095532.png

Is the thermal expansion valve sensing line set up properly?
There may need to be a cycling switch installed when running r134 with the RV2 compressor but I'm not sure. There are 2 places off the top of my head I would contact for tech help, Classic Auto Air, or Vintage Air.
 
The Valiants of that era had a cycling RV-2 compressor. The difference in the A-body and C-body systems was that the A-body systems did not have an EPR valve on the compressor inlet side, but used a cycling switch instead. EPR = evaporator pressure regulator, which kept the cooling at optimum levels without causing the evaporator core from freezing up.

As to the drain tube from the hvac case, DO make sure it is open and clear.

As to "hvac case leaks", these were FAR more common than anybody knows about, from my experiences. A main issue was in how the case halves were attached and the gasket which sealed them.

On one side of the case, there were slip-on items which had the nuts the attaching bolts screwed into. So far, so good.

On the other side, the side the bolts went through, it was smooth. The gasket was a somewhat stiff rubberized item. It had too much surface tension to effectively seal the case from moisture leakage due to the small gaps it could not get into due to the surface tension of the rubber. Too much torque on the hold-together bolts and the case flange might crack (being a fiberglass-type material).

I was at the local dealership one day when a customer (1969 Fury) had returned as she was still getting water in the rh footwell. I also knew that the local dealership techs were doing the repair as the factory specified, too. A new gasket was installed on her car.

I discussed the situation with the service manager, as a curious inquiry, as I knew we had had no such things on our '66 Newport. He noted that with the '69s C-body cars, they had deleted the drain pan the earlier cars had had in them. Obviously, the accountants decided the cost of the drain pan was "extra" when the bottom of the case should direct water to the drain tube?

Later, with my '70 Monaco Brougham, after I'd had it a while (it had 83K miles on it when I bought it), I pulled up the factory OEM hard vinyl floor mats. I had felt dampness on the upper edge of the exposed carpet. I discovered the complete rh footwell was more than damp, but not quite squishy! The bottom side of the mat was physically damp, too. I found a few drops on the bottom edge of the hvac case. That's when I first paid attention to how that area was sealed. When it was obvious that the gasket itself was not sealing well. NOR would it ever seal well, due to the gaps I mentioned above.

Additionally, any small dops which hit the upper carpet would get into the carpet and wick to the footwell area, under the mats, undetected. Possibly getting into the jute mat under the carpet for accumulation and or dispersion/evaporation due to the warmer underbody footwell (from engine heat and such).

Seeing the defects in the factory design and execution of the hvac case halves, how to fix it?

The obvious thing would be to replace the slide-on clip nuts with another style of retainer. A captured washer nut, possibly, which would allow for two flat surfaces the gasket could seal against? OEM production would not use them as one might get lost and not replaced, on the line, I suspect, choosing the "stay there" slip-on nut item instead.

Another option would be to forget the gasket and use a medium-width bead of high-heat silicone sealer (not available in those earlier years), being more heavy-bodied than normal silicone sealer. Without a robot installing the sealer (as happened in later years), variable results could happen.

So . . . here's my theory. Use the factory gasket kit mentioned above. Then, use the high-heat silicone sealer mentioned above and put a skin coat of it on all sides of the gasket, the flat sides and also the inside and outside edges. Let that cure for one day before installing. As to the slip-on clip/nuts, you can probably leave them installed, but wipe them off with a cloth and then put a dab of the high-heat silicone sealer on each side of them, making a smooth surface for the gasket to seal against. With a more gradual transition between their additional height and the case sealing surface they are installed on, rather than the very quick transition in elevations of the OEM situation.

Yes, a few more labor-operation steps to prep the case halves and gasket, but I highly suspect they will result in a better-than-OEM situation which should endure a very long time. With attention to details.

After seeing how the thick vinyl OEM floormats would block the evaporation of any condensate from the a/c case or from many temperature swings, I was much more diligent about checking for such accumulations! Knowing about this, I started to check the area every month of so, even removing the mats for things to fully dry out. Becoming less of a fan of those thick vinyl mats, too.

Hope this might help,
CBODY67
 
Icing up is not normal. Obviously the drain needs to be open, but if does'nt leak part of the time, I'd bet you are not able to catch the ice. This problem would happen with any type of mid temp application that ices up. The two main issues causing that are low air flow or low charge of the refrigerant. Make sure the heater core, evaporator and the blower wheel are clean, very clean, and the blower motor is up to snuff. If that all looks good, have the charge checked and weigh-in the proper amount if need be.... If there is no engineering for your particular unit, just add refrigerant slightly to reduce the superheat... this will effectively run the evaporator at a slightly higher temperature and stop the freeze ups.
 
Thank you for all the great input. Much appreciated. The issue is more complex than suspected. I will start with the drain tube. Then go for the refrigerant level, and finally onto the hvac box.

The entire box was rebuilt, and resealed, but not as mentioned above, and using just similar but not original materials.

I will probably get the gasket kit, and put it all together as CBODY67 mentioned above with an additional layer of heat silicone.

Probably better doing this than letting the carpet and floor rot out...
 
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If the coil is freezing over, I doubt if new gaskets are going to help any.

Yes, check the drain tube, but you need to address the evaporator coil freezing over.
 
I fought the same problem on my 1971 Town and Country. Had it apart three times, used silicone sealer to no avail. Bottom line it is a lousy design. This may sound hokey but I finally fixed it by using 3M black butyl strip caulk. I applied it all around the bottom seam and as far up as needed externally, without taking it apart. The biggest problem is the caulk wants to stick to your fingers as you apply it making it a tedious exercise. I did it at least 10 years ago and it hasn't leaked since. I also converted to 134a and removed the epr valve and it freezes up as well. I hope this helps. I was so glad this resolved the issue.
 
Still freezing over, but much less if i don't blend the air. The drain tube is ok, it drips as it should. My system has been converted to 134 when i did the rebuild 6 years ago, it is blowing nice and cold but is freezing over.

I found this:
Removing EPR Valves when Converting Your Mopar to 134a | Classic Auto Air

"All Mopars that have the original RV2 compressor use the EPR (evaporator pressure regulator) valves to prevent the evaporator from freezing, by by-passing certain internal system pressures. Because 134a systems function correctly at different pressures, and the EPR cannot be calibrated differently from the factory R12 setting, it must be removed and replaced with a thermostat. The thermostat prevents the evaporator from freezing up by temperature instead of by pressure."

I stilld o have the EPR valve. As stated above, this could be the culrpit why it's freezing over.

Maybe this could also be a solution ? By installing a cycle switch like in the A-bodies... ? this one for an AMC

Four Seasons A/C Clutch Cycle Switch | 35820

What do you think ?
 
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Back 20 years ago, in the old ACKits.com forum (which was run by a/c professionals in Arizona), it was confirmed that the Chrysler EPR item, as well as the GM POA Valves ARE ADJUSTABLE !!! They were NOT built to "a spec" and suspected they would have the correct regulation capabilities to work with R12 gas, they HAD to be adjusted on their own little assembly line to function correctly!

For warranty purposes, GM never did mention this, as they wanted to see if the supplier was building the POA valves as they should have been, to not cause problems. So they said "replace" rather than "adjust". The other thing was that GM would only pay for a repair ONCE, so they did not want to pay one dealer to adjust and then use the same labor op at another dealership (or repeat service visit to the same dealership) to later replace it.

FORD, on the other hand, had a procedure in their factory service manuals, after they went to the GM POA valve in the middle 1970s, had a procedure to use to ADJUST them!!! Of course, to do these checks at the Ford/Lincoln-Mercury dealerships, the POA had to be removed from the car.

Back to the old 2003-era postings in the www.ackits.com forums, it seems that EVERY factory a/c system has had adjustability built into it, although the OEMs might not have ever mentioned it, but the valves had to have had some way to calibrate them when the valve mechanisms were built -- period. Common sense?

So in the case of the Chrysler EPR items, they are adjustable too. Just turn the adjustment screw abt 3/4 turn CCW and reinstall. With this small change, the pressure differentials between the high and low come back into approximately the same relationship as with the prior R12 relationship . . . but with R134a. With, of course, the reduced-charge level for R134a.

It was also mentioned that the same thing worked with all versions of the GM systems. Hot gas by-pass, POA, and VIR (with a mini POA valve in it). Which goes back into the later 1950s. ALL items were adjustable, even if such adjustments were not mentioned in the factory service literature.

When I mentioned this adjustability capability in this forum, about 15 years ago, there was one poster who said adjusting the EPR was not needed as the expansion valve would compensate. Yet a parts acquaintance (whom I conversed with during the change-over to R134a, that then worked for Four Seasons) said they were considering doing a line of R134a expansion valves, but this never happened, or I read of such. BTAIM

The reason I started to investigate the R134a change-over things is that we were having GM customers (at the dealership) that wanted/needed to get their R12 systems converted to R134a. Plus some issues with concours judging at national Buick Club meets, as the participants with factory a/c cars wanted approval to do the "POA Eliminator Kit" installation (which was very home-made looking, to me) and used a machined brass block to install cycling switch items in it. So my investigation began.

I ALSO discovered that in the 1977 model year at GM, which used the Cycling Compressor Orifice Tube (CCOT) system, that the cycling switch was adjustable, too! When I found this, it turned out that my '77 Camaro had such a switch on it! Turning the small adjustment screw about 1 turn CCW for that one, with the gas charge that worked with R134a (usually about 90% of the R12 charge).

After all of this, another issue emerged . . . age of components. Namely the regulating items. Allegedly, the rubber inside of them would age and fail when the adjustments were made. New replacements long gone.

Back in about 1975, I happened upon a new 1975 Plymouth Valiant with factory a/c being converted to a "Chrysler-level" a/c system by the installation of an EPR valve into the a/c system at the line fitting at the compressor. Pretty simple. Unplug the cycling switch and install the EPR valve so the compressor did not cycle.

Sorry for the length, so far! Back to the original issue.

If the a/c condenser is "freezing up", which would also mean NO airflow through the dash vents, that should not be happening with an R12-regulated system with R134a gas in it! Reason is that the system performance should be a bit less cold than with R12, in the first place. What you are probably seeing is normal condensate production, not "freezing up".

My experiences and observations are that the main culprit is the retention style of the two halves of the a/c cars, combined with a stiffer rubber gasket, lead to the leaks. If you place the new gasket against the two case halves, where it seals, all looks pretty good. BUT when you slide the clip/nuts over the side they slide onto, THEN put the gasket against that, it is easy to see that little gaps will exist at EVERY retained clip where the gasket touches them, on EACH side of the clip! When the bolts are torqued to specs, the gaps can become smaller, but are still there AND they will leak, eventually.

The leaks/seeps are unknown for a long time, until you take out the rubber floormats from the carpet. THEN you'll discover dampness and wonder where it came from! It is made worse by the thick vinyl OEM floor mats Chrysler used, too. No way for the moisture to escape. THIS is how I discovered the situation with the gasket/seal/retention issues on my '70 Monaco DH43 after I bought it used, in about 1975. My parents had already had a/c case leak issues with their 1972 Newport Royal by that time, which did not work (when I initially examined the lower hvac case area on that car). I had also been at the local dealership when a customer had complained to the dealer principal about a "failed repair" on her 1969 Fury, for a/c case leaks.

To me, the best thing to do would be to get rid of the "time saving" push-on clip-nuts and replace them with individual square nuts (the larger OD the better, but square rather than round). THEN, the factory-type case gasket should work much better, I suspect.

To recap, with the EPR valve adjusted (as above), the a/c vent temps should get back to the old R12 spec of 40*F orientation. With R134a, they will be higher a bit with a non-adjusted EPR valve. Whether the compressor is converted to cycle or not.

The issues with condensate production is normal, but with age and such, the retention method Chrysler used for the halves of the hvac case is a real issue, plus that (as the old-line Chrysler service manger mentioned, they deleted the "drain pan" in Fuselage cars' hvac cases.

My apologies for the length. Thanks for your time! These are MY observations and experiences with two things. Chrysler factory a/c R12 systems converted to R134a. How the factory a/c cases on Fuselage cars are sealed and held together.

Take care,
CBODY67
 
Thank you for the write up!

The thing is, it does freeze up in extreme cases (high outside temp and humidity), and the airflow from the vents starts to decrease dramatically, to the point it ceases altogether. I then have to switch the ac off and in a matter of 2-3 minutes it starts to pour water on the passenger floor and airflow returns from the vents. The amount of water is huge, i would say between 1 to 2 litres. Crazy.

Thanks for the suggestion on the adjustability of the epr valve, i will try turning it ccw . Another idea is cycling of the compressor...
 
My car will do the same if running on MAX A/C and high humidity. Running on normal A/C prevents this from happening.
I fold up a towel and put it under the heater box to absorb the water.

The seals between the heater box and the firewall need changed but that requires removing the entire heater box. A big job.

You can also check that your outside drains are not partially blocked and drain properly. If your car is the one in your User Name photo it most likely has drains that are just rectangle openings with an extended lower tongue. They are hard to see unless viewed with a mirror from under the car.

20220317_114248.jpg
 
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