Fuel Not Exiting Carburetor Fuel Bowl

65Polara383

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I have a 383 powered 1965 Dodge Polara with a Stromberg WWC 2-barrel carburetor. The car will crank but not start, it has spark and compression but no fuel.

I have cleaned and rebuilt the carburetor, the float assembly works properly and will let the fuel bowl fill completely. However, the fuel is only getting pushed out of the bowl in tiny spurts by the accelerator pump.
Is there anything I might have forgotten to clean/replace when rebuilding the carb? Or is this normal operation for this carburetor?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
Seems like there is a small ball check which is in the bottom of the accel pump cylinder, which seals the bottom-feed accel pump from pushing fuel back into the float bowl when the accel pump is actuated? The Chrysler FSM states that when rebuilding that carb, to use a hammer and punch to use to tap the existing ball check in its seat, then discard that ball check, and install one of the new ones in the kit. I never did that, just put a new ball check in the seat and had no problems with the accel pump. The accel pump always put out a strong stream afterward.

Have you filled the float bowl via either the bowl vent valve or the bowl vent tube? The accel pump feeds from the bottom of the float bowl, so it should have fuel in it if there is any in the float bowl, by design.

Will the car start or just crank?

What circumstances led to the first carb rebuild? Just curious.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
I first rebuilt the carb because it was full of varnish and was leaking fuel through its gaskets.

The car cranks, and if loaded with starter fluid will sputter to life for a about a second and then stop running.

I have manually filled the float bowl and replaced the ball check in the accel pump cylinder.

The carb will squirt some fuel. Just a tiny amount though, not enough to make it past the throttle valve.

I am sorry if there is an obvious fix for this problem, this is my first project car.
 
You should have a good strong stream from the accelerator pump. As said earlier the check ball is missing or hung up; the accelerator pump “piston” whether leather or rubber is not filling the bore to efficiently pump; or some of the varnish let lose and is plugging the jets.
Accelerator pump. If it was leather, did you soak it in gas and work it open after it was saturated? If the pump is dried out you won’t get a good seal around the bore and it won’t pump.
 
Thanks for the information.

As evidenced by the fuel circuits illustrated in the Chrysler factory service manual (free download at www.mymopar.com), things happen pretty normally in that carb. Is the starter fluid being sprayed into the throttle bores, then dies when it has burned off? At what general rpm range is this happening . . . idle, or main system?

What happens if the carb linkage is on the fast idle speed cam, rather than the choke being open (and that linkage not involved)? The reason I ask this is that when on the fast idle cam, the idle system is not operating, with the fuel coming from the main system, bypassing the idle system.

From my experiences with 2bbl carbs, including the WWC3 that was on our '66 Newport 383, "varnish" is worse than it looks, usually happening on the external surfaces as fuel eventually wicks through the pressed and treated paper gasket for the air horn to the main body/float bowl castings. Once the fuel starts to wick, the only way to stop it is with new gaskets (not unlike what happens with rubber-cork valve cover gaskets and engine oil doing similar). This also happens with all of the retention bolts/screws being tight. But varnish internally can happen, but usually not inside of a fuel circuit, as the fresh fuel washed things and keeps them clean. Although a carb which has sat for a long time might also have some varnish from the "dead" fuel, possibly. Still, all of this should be able to be removed with a suitable cleaner fluid or carb soak fluid.

ONE area where varnish can deteriorate engine performance and fuel economy is it can slowly block the air bleeds on the venturi's top-side surfaces. As those holes become restricted, it richens the mixture from if they were open. But, usually, being accessible, a spritz or two of carb cleaner can wash that away.

What will NOT be removed by any carb cleaner fluid are "hard deposits" from fuel "metal"(?) additives which will accumulate in the fuel calibration and fuel transport passages in the venturi assy. These accumulations physically decrease the cross-section of the passages and decrease the amount of fuel they can flow, until the total flow is too diminished to support engine operation from that fuel circuit. Such hard deposits was one "battle" I fought with my '80 Newport's Carter BBD 2bbl on a 360 V-8. It would start as expected when cold and run well as long as the automatic choke was operating, but when it opened and the idle speed came down to normal hot idle levels, the engine would die immediately. Even when decelerating for an off-ramp at 60mph.

The two brass tubes installed on the bottom of the venturi cluster are the idle feed tubes. THAT is where my problem was discovered to be. Using spray carb cleaner, they appeared to be open and good, but they would not let ENOUGH fuel through. I eventually got a selection of twist drills at a hobby shop. I determined they were clogged, then probed the tubes with a bent-wire spark plug gap gauge. Starting with the smallest diameter, working larger as the crusty deposits were removed. Then I probed further with the twist drills until I "got brass", flushed the tubes with spray cleaner, back-flushed that is, and that fixed that issue.

I even considered putting on a different carburetor and even going to a 4bbl, but for many reasons, these things were problematic and would have meant many more changes that I was prepared to get involved in. So "repair" was the best choice.

Personally, I like the Stromberg WWC3 carbs a lot. I like their design and look, plus their performance. As there is ONE is issue with them and the later Holley 2210 2bbls. But PM me for that. One alternative for you is the later Carter BBD 1.5" 2bbl carb. Chrysler later went to that one in 1967, I believe. It usually does not have that same issue and should be a bolt-in change, I believe.

As I recall, there are several gaskets for each position they are placed in. Unless a gasket might have been inadvertently mis-installed (which is usually hard to do), then from the information supplied, I suspect a blockage in one of the fuel circuits, unless something is broken or similar.

Had the car been running before the carb rebuild? Or daily-driven prior to being parked? Just curious.

Sorry for the length. Keep us posted on your progress.
CBODY67
 
The pump has been soaked in gas and seems to make a good seal. I will make sure the check ball is properly seated.
You can notice that the accel pump cylinder casting is larger at the top (where the pump is inserted) than it is closer to the bottom (where the pump usually works). This is normal, as is a wear pattern near the bottom edge of the leather pump's edge.
 
The car had been parked for about 30 years before I acquired it.

The issue with the carburetor seems to be that I missed a small blockage, fuel is now coming out of one barrel but not the other. I will attempt to clear out the other side later today and will let you guys know how it goes.

Are there any common issues that might prevent this car from starting that I haven't considered?
I have replaced the spark plugs and tested the rest of the ignition system. I have also replaced the ballast resistor. I am getting about 95-100 psi compression across all cylinders which is low but should still start.
 
I was going to say the passage under the main jet is probably still blocked
 
I just tried clearing out the other side and now the accelerator pump wont fit back in. The leather appears to be curling outwards and the bottom of it.

Is there any way I can fix this or do I need to buy another accelerator pump?
 
I’ll chime in and say that even with a non-functioning accelerator pump it should start with a little priming and the choke closed. The accelerator pump just squirts fuel when the gas pedal is pushed down to keep the engine from hesitating or stalling when the butterflies open.
It runs off of the main jets. They don’t push fuel out of the float bowl, the vacuum from the engine pulls it out.
I’d try cleaning the carb again. Running tip cleaners through all the holes and compressed air. Put away the starting fluid and use small amounts of gas instead. If it won’t hit on that it won’t hit on starting fluid.
 
I’ll chime in and say that even with a non-functioning accelerator pump it should start with a little priming and the choke closed. The accelerator pump just squirts fuel when the gas pedal is pushed down to keep the engine from hesitating or stalling when the butterflies open.
It runs off of the main jets. They don’t push fuel out of the float bowl, the vacuum from the engine pulls it out.
I’d try cleaning the carb again. Running tip cleaners through all the holes and compressed air. Put away the starting fluid and use small amounts of gas instead. If it won’t hit on that it won’t hit on starting fluid.
Alright, I will try that and let you know how it goes.
 
I have ensured every passage is cleared out and the car is getting fuel. It will no longer start though.

I am going to make a separate post as this has become an entirely different problem.

Thanks to everyone for all the help with this issue!
 
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