Fuselage front suspension rebuild
- Thread starter pmschmitt
- Start date
Ok so here is the question do I get a 73 mopar metering valve replacement or an adjustable wilwood metering valve replacement. Looks like they both are about $100 w/ free shipping. I have not used many wilwood parts, but figured the wilwood product would have some adjustability if I was unhappy with the front to rear distribution. Thoughts? Also not wanting to have to muck about and twist all the lines I currently have into a bunch of abnormal positions.
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
Of the two I would get the Wilwood because it has the adjustable valve incorporated for the rear. Kill two birds with one stone for the same price - that's my opinion.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I agree with SF-66TC get the wildwood, I didn't know they made a valve like that I thought it was rear only.
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
If you didn't already know, Amazon's got it for $69.99 w/FREE 1-Day Shipping with Prime!
Ok here is an update:
Finally found the time to plumb in a wilwood metering block with built in proportioning valve. In doing so many of the old brake line fittings were shot so I ended up making all new 3/16 steel brake lines front and rear and located the proportioning valve near the MC.
Flushed clean DOT3 brake fluid through the lines and bled the brakes, get a very firm pedal.
Took the car out with the rear proportion dialed all the back ( least possible rear brake assistance) and car has very little stopping power up front. Dialed up proportion valve and still very weak stopping power ( worse then when I had drums).
So the only thing not replaced and that is unknown is the brake booster and master cylinder.
1) could it be the MC has the rubber grommet used for drums and it need to be removed?
2) could be wrong MC all together?
3) should I replace the booster? It seems to be working fine.
4) any other possible reasons the brakes would not be working other than MC?
Finally found the time to plumb in a wilwood metering block with built in proportioning valve. In doing so many of the old brake line fittings were shot so I ended up making all new 3/16 steel brake lines front and rear and located the proportioning valve near the MC.
Flushed clean DOT3 brake fluid through the lines and bled the brakes, get a very firm pedal.
Took the car out with the rear proportion dialed all the back ( least possible rear brake assistance) and car has very little stopping power up front. Dialed up proportion valve and still very weak stopping power ( worse then when I had drums).
So the only thing not replaced and that is unknown is the brake booster and master cylinder.
1) could it be the MC has the rubber grommet used for drums and it need to be removed?
2) could be wrong MC all together?
3) should I replace the booster? It seems to be working fine.
4) any other possible reasons the brakes would not be working other than MC?
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
The RUBBER GROMMET is ONLY for cars with MANUAL Brakes.
Are the rear drum brakes adjusted?
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
Double check and adjust the rears you might be surprised. I'm suggesting because I overlooked this when I did my front disc conversion - I assumed they were fine only to realize the were in need of adjustment. When I did, much improvement.
Last edited:
saylor
Senior Member
what is the pedal doing when you are testing? does it stop? slowly sink? etc?
Pedal remains firm. Does not sink at all. The front brakes never lock up, they stop but it is not an abrupt stop, even if just rolling forward slowly. I plan to try an adjust the rear brakes, but after that I don't know....mc....brake booster?
saylor
Senior Member
I think the adjusto rod is not engaged far enough, the plunger, the piston. you may have said it already and I forgot the answer, but this was power drum brakes car correct?
this new MC bore is 1 1/32 ?
this new MC bore is 1 1/32 ?
saylor
Senior Member
hey please 6lb 8oz baby jesus tell us we didnt leave this hanging for over a year. wheres pmschmitt? no brakes? cant stop? been driving this whole time ?
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