Group 24, 27 or 34 battery? Good brand? Marine/RV ?

[73Polara360]

Hi there,

Looking to get a good battery. Group 27 seems to be the proper size but I feel like I've seen higher CCA with group 34. Many websites call for group 24 but the CCA are low, 650 to 750. My car sits for a few weeks at times without being driven very far, and I don't have indoor parking, so a trickle charger seems a little unrealistic (also accepting recommendations on a robust outdoor-appropriate trickle charger if available).
I recently tried to revive my dead group 27 battery using a 2500amp booster pack good for 6.0L gas and 8.0L diesel engines, took several tries.
I feel like this car (360) needs a fairly beefy battery, at least 800CCA, and I was considering a marine or RV battery since apparently they discharge quite slowly.

Interstate, Costco, lots of brands, what are people's experiences and recommendations?

Thank you

 

[SIPLOWGUY]

I think a group 34 would work as well. Do the research, I think group 34 is the highest specs. Good thing about COSTCO is "no question" returns.

 

[Justin Plant]

The original amount of CCA is more than likely closer to 350-450. I wouldn't worry about that. Since every battery you buy will have more. At one time Advance Auto Parts store look up would give you orig CCA. As far as brand goes, there aren't but a few battery plants out there. Most of the retail brands are the battery with different stickers on them. Johnson Controls is the biggie. They produce A LOT of makes. The warranty is the main difference. Get the one one that makes sense to you. If you Shop at Advance, buy theirs. Auto zone, buy theirs. Chances are it's the same battery. The last year I was at Advance we got in a load of Group 65s. The top had our stickers on it and the side said Duralast. Your car won't know the difference.

 

[Big_John]

Marine batteries are rated differently. MCA is the cranking amps at 32°F where CCA is cranking amps at 0°F. IIRC, the difference is about 30% so a 1000MCA battery would be ~700CCA. They are also heavier and more expensive than a car battery.

There's only a few battery manufacturers. For example, Interstate batteries are made by Johnson Controls and Exide. NAPA batteries made by East Penn and Dekka. On and on..... Just stickers on the batteries.... And they change all the time.

I've been buying batteries from Costco as they have the best price. My local place only recently started stocking Group 27 batteries and before that, I went to Walmart for the Group 27 battery. BTW, I think they are the exact same battery.... But if you pull one off the shelf at Walmart, look at the date. The last time I bought a battery there, one was 2 years old and the next one was a month old. I bought the month old battery.

If you buy a Group 27 battery, be sure it's not a Group 27F. F for Ford with the terminals reversed. I'd double check that Group 34 for that too.

BTW, I bought one of dress up battery kits on eBay with the sticker and the red caps. Not quite like the repops, but a little more stock looking. I've also ditched that disconnect for something else as I had a couple failures with them.

 

[Boydsdodge]

Marine batteries are rated differently. MCA is the cranking amps at 32°F where CCA is cranking amps at 0°F. IIRC, the difference is about 30% so a 1000MCA battery would be ~700CCA. They are also heavier and more expensive than a car battery.

There's only a few battery manufacturers. For example, Interstate batteries are made by Johnson Controls and Exide. NAPA batteries made by East Penn and Dekka. On and on..... Just stickers on the batteries.... And they change all the time.

I've been buying batteries from Costco as they have the best price. My local place only recently started stocking Group 27 batteries and before that, I went to Walmart for the Group 27 battery. BTW, I think they are the exact same battery.... But if you pull one off the shelf at Walmart, look at the date. The last time I bought a battery there, one was 2 years old and the next one was a month old. I bought the month old battery.

If you buy a Group 27 battery, be sure it's not a Group 27F. F for Ford with the terminals reversed. I'd double check that Group 34 for that too.

BTW, I bought one of dress up battery kits on eBay with the sticker and the red caps. Not quite like the repops, but a little more stock looking. I've also ditched that disconnect for something else as I had a couple failures with them.


View attachment 742263

Just what I am looking to do for my Imperial. Having a hard time sourcing a group 27 flat top battery, you just reminded me to start looking again.
That didn't take long. I will need to go in store for a look as photos are not always what you get, but I found a flat top 27 at Canadian tire.

 

[CBODY67]

The base battery that came on C-bodies (and lots of other cars back then) was the Group 24 battery. The Group 27 was the larger optional battery, if it did not become standard with the larger engines and cars with lots of electrical accessories (as power windows, power seats, factory a/c, etc.).

As battery tech has improved, "energy density" for a given exterior size has increased, too. Which means that a Group 24 battery is plenty fine for where an older Group 27 used to be needed. No problems with durability, either.

You can check the Interstate Battery website for all of their options AND locate a local store where you can buy one. The old "Good", "Better", and "Best" orientation. Even some with completely BLACK cases, too! Interstate is the OEM dealer supplier for many import brand of vehicles, too. The difference between a Lexus battery and a Hundai batter is the stickers applied to them, by observation, which replace any stated "Interstate" stickers per se (for OEM warranty uses), yet all "black case batteries". Their trademark green and white batteries are also available.

Choose a battery brand you can get good warranty service on without having to drive very far. Even if it might come from a big box auto supply store. Any aftermarket battery will be built to the specs of the business buying the battery. NOBODY wants to be "known" for selling "bad" batteries, so most of them will last at least 2 years before any performance issues might arise.

To me, in our modern world, no real need for a Group 27 battery (except for cosmetics) as the current Group 24 batteries have increased in power so much. Your judgment call . . .

CBODY67

 

[Boydsdodge]

The base battery that came on C-bodies (and lots of other cars back then) was the Group 24 battery. The Group 27 was the larger optional battery, if it did not become standard with the larger engines and cars with lots of electrical accessories (as power windows, power seats, factory a/c, etc.).

As battery tech has improved, "energy density" for a given exterior size has increased, too. Which means that a Group 24 battery is plenty fine for where an older Group 27 used to be needed. No problems with durability, either.

You can check the Interstate Battery website for all of their options AND locate a local store where you can buy one. The old "Good", "Better", and "Best" orientation. Even some with completely BLACK cases, too! Interstate is the OEM dealer supplier for many import brand of vehicles, too. The difference between a Lexus battery and a Hundai batter is the stickers applied to them, by observation, which replace any stated "Interstate" stickers per se (for OEM warranty uses), yet all "black case batteries". Their trademark green and white batteries are also available.

Choose a battery brand you can get good warranty service on without having to drive very far. Even if it might come from a big box auto supply store. Any aftermarket battery will be built to the specs of the business buying the battery. NOBODY wants to be "known" for selling "bad" batteries, so most of them will last at least 2 years before any performance issues might arise.

To me, in our modern world, no real need for a Group 27 battery (except for cosmetics) as the current Group 24 batteries have increased in power so much. Your judgment call . . .

CBODY67

Sounds good and have had no issues with Costco group 24 batteries,. But I am doing for cosmetics, as the 27 is what my Imperial would have come with.

 

[Big_John]

The base battery that came on C-bodies (and lots of other cars back then) was the Group 24 battery. The Group 27 was the larger optional battery,

Gotta disagree on that.

Here's screen shot from my '65 Chrysler FSM. Note model number. Basically, across the board on the '65 Chryslers.

From my '70 Chrysler FSM. Google the part number 2642969 of the standard battery for the 440 engine and it's a group 27. 440 engine was standard on New Yorker etc.

EDIT: Trying to get the rest of your quote in here about the battery being standard but the quote feature is being stupid today. LOL. This I do agree with as the lower priced 383 Newports etc. would have the group 24.

"The Group 27 was the larger optional battery, if it did not become standard with the larger engines and cars with lots of electrical accessories "

 

[Fireflite56]

There are only a couple of battery manufacturers for most of the automotive battery brands sold in the US. The ones made by Johnson Controls used to be really good quality and we personally always got good life out of those. We were loyal buyers of our local Farm and Fleet brand that were Johnson Control-made, regularly getting 7+ years out of a battery, until we discovered (in conjunction with multiple low-age failures) that they had switched manufacturers. Anyhow, back to the Johnson Controls brand, they did sell out that division to Clairos a couple of years ago and I'm not sure how the quality is since the division was sold off. We have purchased a few of the Walmart Everstart batteries made by Clairos (check to see who makes yours in case it's regional) to try, but we're only a couple years into those.

Regarding size, Group 24 might be original, but we run Group 27 for higher cranking amps.

 

[Toolmanmike]

I bought a flat top with the 2 pry off caps so I could put the cap and sticker kit on it. Wal Mart had what I needed. Their batteries are from Clarios (former Johnson Controls), East Penn, and Exide. The battery kit is from Weskcar on E Bay. I have got to fix the clamp on the 64 battery. I hate those bolt on terminal ends.

 

[Big_John]

I hate those bolt on terminal ends.

There's a reason they are called "temporary battery terminals".

 

[73Polara360]

Thank you for all the replies. There was a lot of good information there I had not considered as much such as choosing the best warranty, that's definitely something I didn't do the last time I think that's why this time I'll go with a brand new battery.

Also some interesting information there about makers, I guess in this day and age it makes sense that they would all come from a handful of companies although I'm sure at one point in time there were various makers.

I think I'd like to stay with the group 27 as it fills up the battery tray nicely.

I will avoid the 27 F for Fords, but I also see 27c, 27n, would the c be for Chevrolet and the n possibly for nautical? Sometimes online I don't see any 27 batteries that just say "27."

Now about these push in caps, they're called push in caps I assume because originally you physically pushed them in and they capped the individual acid containing compartments but all the kits people are using these days to dress up their batteries are just stickers correct?

 

[Clayboy]

I bought a flat top with the 2 pry off caps so I could put the cap and sticker kit on it. Wal Mart had what I needed. Their batteries are from Clarios (former Johnson Controls), East Penn, and Exide. The battery kit is from Weskcar on E Bay. I have got to fix the clamp on the 64 battery. I hate those bolt on terminal ends.

View attachment 742276

View attachment 742277

View attachment 742278

Hey, thank you for the post and pics. I checked eBay, used the Advance Search function for “Weskcar” as the seller. I came across only sticker kits, nothing with caps. Would you be kind enough to post the link to the product you purchased on eBay? Thank you!

 

[Big_John]

I just looked and I guess he's not selling them anymore.

weskcar | eBay Stores

 

[413]

Yes 383's without air came with group 24, but A/C cars and 413/440's came with a group 27. Probably every Imperial came with a 27 also, don't want those expensive beasts out there with a weak battery. Best of the best.


I don't buy group 27's anymore, obnoxiously heavy and expensive. I move batteries around in cars so they get lifted often.

For general automotive use deep cycle batteries don't last long, and the warranty is shorter also.

 

[Toolmanmike]

There's a reason they are called "temporary battery terminals".

The car came with it and I haven't dug into how to solder a new standard end on the cable. Near correct look replacement cables are real spendy and hard for me to justify when the only thing wrong with mine is a cable end.

 

[Toolmanmike]

I just looked and I guess he's not selling them anymore.

weskcar | eBay Stores

Now that's a shame. My first 2 kits came from Belgium where they are from. The last kit I ordered was to come from China and it didn't make it because of the tariff situation. They did refund my money and suggested I reorder which I did. I am waiting for a shipping confirmation and tracking number for that.

 

[Big_John]

The car came with it and I haven't dug into how to solder a new standard end on the cable. Near correct look replacement cables are real spendy and hard for me to justify when the only thing wrong with mine is a cable end.

What I did was buy a new generic cable from NAPA. I cut it off about 6" long, stripped the insulation off it and the old cable. Then I got a large butt connector and crimped it. Finished with a piece of black heat shrink. If I didn't point it out to you, you'd never see it as it kind of hangs along side of the battery. Worked for 8 years now, so I think it's good.

Only issue is you have to have the larger crimper to do the job, but you could probably solder it.

I couldn't justify that insane expensive repop cable that isn't even correct.

 

[Toolmanmike]

What I did was buy a new generic cable from NAPA. I cut it off about 6" long, stripped the insulation off it and the old cable. Then I got a large butt connector and crimped it. Finished with a piece of black heat shrink. If I didn't point it out to you, you'd never see it as it kind of hangs along side of the battery. Worked for 8 years now, so I think it's good.

Only issue is you have to have the larger crimper to do the job, but you could probably solder it.

I couldn't justify that insane expensive repop cable that isn't even correct.

Great idea. Thanks for the tip.

 

[CBODY67]

Gotta disagree on that.

Here's screen shot from my '65 Chrysler FSM. Note model number. Basically, across the board on the '65 Chryslers.

View attachment 742274




From my '70 Chrysler FSM. Google the part number 2642969 of the standard battery for the 440 engine and it's a group 27. 440 engine was standard on New Yorker etc.

EDIT: Trying to get the rest of your quote in here about the battery being standard but the quote feature is being stupid today. LOL. This I do agree with as the lower priced 383 Newports etc. would have the group 24.



View attachment 742275

In prior times, I was a "get the biggest capacity battery that will fit" type of person. More the better and it should last longer as it was stressed less than a smaller battery. No doubt about it. Being more ready to have a reliable battery to start the car (AND ALSO making sure the rest of the ignition system was in great condition, too!!!) in all temperatures of weather. I saw that as an "insurance issue" of not being "caught out". Especially in a time before personal communications in my pocket.

Our factory air '66 Newport had a Group 27 battery in it from when it left the factory. I saw that as "good". That is what it got replaced with when it needed to be replaced, too. Always with a Chrysler battery from the dealership.

From the last time I looked at current battery specs, as far as amps and reserve capacity go, no real need for a Group 27 battery as in the past. Plus, I have evolved to be a bit more cost conscious, too. If a current (or any) Group 24 battery will work where a Group 27 used to be, so be it. Yes, being used to seeing a Group 27 under the hood, a Group 24 looks "kinda lost", by comparison. So if cosmetics count, spend the additional money for a Group 27. Whatever works.

In something like an Imperial, where everything is supposed to be better, I'd still put a Group 27 in there with a 42 month warranty/free replacement time. After all, "The Best Chrysler" needs a "A Great Battery" in it. I refrained from saying "The Best Battery" as that bar has been raised a good bit by the Optima brand batteries, as well as their higher price point.

Of course, it might also be noted that adding an EFI system that also controls ignition, plus some other controllers and such, would require MORE battery than the cars ever came with, as to power, PLUS a similar alternator. Situation-dependent.

As to the OP, unless there were other considerations involved (including cosmetics) a current, quality Group 24 would start that LA360 just fine.

Enjoy!
CBODY67