Had those hard to find window "sliding blocks" scanned and 3D printed.

[Stargazer]

For those hard to find C bodie plastic parts, 3D might be the solution.
Take the originals to a 3D shop and have them copy them.

 

[MONC440]

Nice

 

[cuda hunter]

@xxcarguy Don't like em?

@Stargazer Did they use the harder more durable plastic?

 

[Stargazer]

@xxcarguy Don't like em?

@Stargazer Did they use the harder more durable plastic?

Made of nylon carbon filament.

 

[MoPar~Man]

Made of nylon.

Are you sure? Looks like ABS.

Did they give you a copy of the design file? (I think usually .STL ?). It would allow others to print them for themselves.

 

[Stargazer]

Are you sure? Looks like ABS.

Did they give you a copy of the design file? (I think usually .STL ?). It would allow others to print them for themselves.

Not sure, but he told me it would be nylon.

No copy. Wonder if he would share that since that seems to be the most work...

 

[65CopCar]

I just can't get past the crudeness and differences of printing for my mopars - yet. I still rather machine. This is what I machined for my 65 Fury cop car alternator. Made it out of G10.

Crazy me would have machined those parts.

 

[xxcarguy]

@xxcarguy Don't like em?

@Stargazer Did they use the harder more durable plastic?

Don’t remember saying that. I looked but don’t think I left a comment.

 

[cuda hunter]

Don’t remember saying that. I looked but don’t think I left a comment.

Just wondering about the red X. Must have been a fat fingered key.

 

[Big_John]

Don’t remember saying that. I looked but don’t think I left a comment.

{dramatic music} You gave him the dreaded red x.

 

[Big_John]

I just can't get past the crudeness and differences of printing for my mopars - yet. I still rather machine. This is what I machined for my 65 Fury cop car alternator. Made it out of G10.

Crazy me would have machined those parts.

View attachment 717312View attachment 717313

It really depends on what it is. The prints are good for what they are. It depends on the type of plastic, and machine settings for both appearance and strength. Most of the home machines aren't good for printing nylon. The usual home machine, like mine, can print PLA or PETG without issue at ~200°C but lack the ability to print at ~250°C for nylon. Then you have to orient the part, so the weaker printed layers don't break.

What they can do is let you easily do a "proof of concept" type model before you start making chips. I made about 3 different configurations of a gauge mount for my 300L in PLA that looked rough but let me fit them exactly where I wanted. Then I did the "nice" version in PETG.

If you want it stronger and want to use a better material, you can't beat machining the part. Although I have to say from back in my toolmaker/modelmaker days, I never liked machining G10.

 

[65CopCar]

It really depends on what it is. The prints are good for what they are. It depends on the type of plastic, and machine settings for both appearance and strength. Most of the home machines aren't good for printing nylon. The usual home machine, like mine, can print PLA or PETG without issue at ~200°C but lack the ability to print at ~250°C for nylon. Then you have to orient the part, so the weaker printed layers don't break.

What they can do is let you easily do a "proof of concept" type model before you start making chips. I made about 3 different configurations of a gauge mount for my 300L in PLA that looked rough but let me fit them exactly where I wanted. Then I did the "nice" version in PETG.

If you want it stronger and want to use a better material, you can't beat machining the part. Although I have to say from back in my toolmaker/modelmaker days, I never liked machining G10.

Can't disagree with anything you said.

I don't know much about the 3D printing capabilities, but I am heading in that direction. My buddy makes fishing lures for a living and told me to buy a cheap unit and once I have it figured out, then spend more money on a better one.

The first issue I see is getting an accurate drawing of the piece. Going from a laser scan (or other methodology) to a final product requires a lot of massaging from what I know. I struggle with my scanned files in SolidWorks - Fusion 360 does much better with my probed scans but I don't have a paid version and they took all that functionality out of the free version. I think that is where a lot of part detail gets lost either from the time it would take to get it right or lack of knowledge on the operator's part. I use SolidWorks 2020 but really am just scratching the surface on learning how to really use the software. I am now forcing myself to actually get better with it.

Once you have a good drawing, I do not know the limitations of the printers to accurately duplicate the piece - something I will have to learn.

And machining G10 sucks.............

 

[xxcarguy]

Just wondering about the red X. Must have been a fat fingered key.

I bet you’re right.
I’ve never Xed anyone.
Sorry John and Cuda Hunter.
My ring size is 16.

 

[xxcarguy]

Betyer

For those hard to find C bodie plastic parts, 3D might be the solution.
Take the originals to a 3D shop and have them copy them.

View attachment 717161

Better!

 

[Big_John]

Can't disagree with anything you said.

I don't know much about the 3D printing capabilities, but I am heading in that direction. My buddy makes fishing lures for a living and told me to buy a cheap unit and once I have it figured out, then spend more money on a better one.

The first issue I see is getting an accurate drawing of the piece. Going from a laser scan (or other methodology) to a final product requires a lot of massaging from what I know. I struggle with my scanned files in SolidWorks - Fusion 360 does much better with my probed scans but I don't have a paid version and they took all that functionality out of the free version. I think that is where a lot of part detail gets lost either from the time it would take to get it right or lack of knowledge on the operator's part. I use SolidWorks 2020 but really am just scratching the surface on learning how to really use the software. I am now forcing myself to actually get better with it.

Once you have a good drawing, I do not know the limitations of the printers to accurately duplicate the piece - something I will have to learn.

And machining G10 sucks.............

I bought an Ender 3 Pro about 3 years ago which was a lower end model. I've done some updates and probably could have spent the same money for a better printer when you add it up. I learned a lot that way and don't regret it. I've added different circuit boards that give a few more options including making the thing quiet.

You've got an advantage if you are familiar with the CAD software. I got out of the trade in '93, before it got down to shop level usage. I've been trying to figure it out, but the learning curve is steep for me. I'm at the "Tinkercad" level which is about as basic CAD as you can find.

Of course, there's a few really good sources for the STL files. Cults・Download free 3D printer models・STL, OBJ, 3MF, CAD is one I use all the time.

I also got into resin printing with is more involved with dealing with the nasty resin, and it's more for making display items rather than functional stuff. Also great for model cars! I built this 300Hurst from files I got online.

 

[65CopCar]

I bought an Ender 3 Pro about 3 years ago which was a lower end model. I've done some updates and probably could have spent the same money for a better printer when you add it up. I learned a lot that way and don't regret it. I've added different circuit boards that give a few more options including making the thing quiet.

You've got an advantage if you are familiar with the CAD software. I got out of the trade in '93, before it got down to shop level usage. I've been trying to figure it out, but the learning curve is steep for me. I'm at the "Tinkercad" level which is about as basic CAD as you can find.

Of course, there's a few really good sources for the STL files. Cults・Download free 3D printer models・STL, OBJ, 3MF, CAD is one I use all the time.

I also got into resin printing with is more involved with dealing with the nasty resin, and it's more for making display items rather than functional stuff. Also great for model cars! I built this 300Hurst from files I got online.

That's awesome!