Help with 1966 fury sport

Canadian_fury66

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Hey guys I recently bought a 1966 fury sport with a 383 commando v8 in it. I was just wondering what kind of headers would fit on it and what's the best set up. I was thinking of doing headers then adding glass packs with some down turn tips and was just wondering the best way to go and what size I could use would like to have at minimum 2 inch piping preferably 3 inch if it would work.
 
3"pipes are rediculous. ESPECIALLY on an old 383. Useless in fact unless you're pushing out 500hp.
What are you trying to accomplish. Coolness?
 
I appreciate that so good to know. My big question was more what headers to get and what's fits? Like can I do long tube headers cause looking at the engine it seems tight on the drivers side for anything
 
I appreciate that so good to know. My big question was more what headers to get and what's fits? Like can I do long tube headers cause looking at the engine it seems tight on the drivers side for anything
Headers on an old 383 won't give you any benefit. Put the money in fixing stuff that needs fixing.
 
Does your 383 have a 4 bbl and duals? If it does you would see some improvement in power if you don't go overboard. Keep the primary tubes to around 1&3/4 inches and stay away from the 3" exhaust and you should be okay. You will need to change the jets in the carb. to get the most from the system.
 
Currently it has a 4 barrel edelbrock and dual exhaust. What would the performance increase vs cost be like? Is there a brand of headers you'd recommend? I've seen that I could have to replace the starter for fitment.
 
Generally, headers are considered to be beneficial, but they can also be trouble as they might age. But they look neat and can give some better performance at the mid-upper rpm ranges.

It used to be that to see a set of headers without some ball pein hammer "clearance notches" meant that you had the application they were designed for, which seemed to be rare. The header gaskets to the cyl heads might have improved, but the old ones were not long-lived, especially if the flanges were warped, although quality control on the headers has seemed to improve over the decades as many smaller companies were acquired by larger companies. Getting a "thick gauge" tube is important on all accounts and can take some of the distinctive tinkle out of the sound under the hood.

2.25 to 2.50" pipes out the back would be good. The larger the pipe, the harder it is to bend over the rear axle without collapsing it in the process. Which is where mandrel bends come into play. PLUS you have to clear the rear shock absorbers, too!

In reality, unless you're going to inrease the horsepower greatly, keep the stock manifolds and improve the muffler flow. Unless you particularly like glass packs, getting one of the Street Hemi mufflers would be good. Or the '72 Imperial mufflers that should fit in all respects other than pipe diameter as they are the same C-body case size with larger pipes going into and coming out of them.

IF the system is basically stock, the inlet pipes should already be 2.25" pipes, which would then mean you'd just need mufflers (with the larger pipe outlets) and the matching rear pipes. Remember, too, that "power" does NOT need to be loud.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Generally, headers are considered to be beneficial, but they can also be trouble as they might age. But they look neat and can give some better performance at the mid-upper rpm ranges.

It used to be that to see a set of headers without some ball pein hammer "clearance notches" meant that you had the application they were designed for, which seemed to be rare. The header gaskets to the cyl heads might have improved, but the old ones were not long-lived, especially if the flanges were warped, although quality control on the headers has seemed to improve over the decades as many smaller companies were acquired by larger companies. Getting a "thick gauge" tube is important on all accounts and can take some of the distinctive tinkle out of the sound under the hood.

2.25 to 2.50" pipes out the back would be good. The larger the pipe, the harder it is to bend over the rear axle without collapsing it in the process. Which is where mandrel bends come into play. PLUS you have to clear the rear shock absorbers, too!

In reality, unless you're going to inrease the horsepower greatly, keep the stock manifolds and improve the muffler flow. Unless you particularly like glass packs, getting one of the Street Hemi mufflers would be good. Or the '72 Imperial mufflers that should fit in all respects other than pipe diameter as they are the same C-body case size with larger pipes going into and coming out of them.

IF the system is basically stock, the inlet pipes should already be 2.25" pipes, which would then mean you'd just need mufflers (with the larger pipe outlets) and the matching rear pipes. Remember, too, that "power" does NOT need to be loud.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
So took some pics ill post in a second but did some rough measurements and the pipes seem to be roughly 2.5 before current muffler and basically the same at the rear tips the measurements being external size and very roughly measured
 
There's a few pics

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20211023_132130.jpg
 
My buddy who's a mechanic and me had it up the other day on the hoist and he seemed to think that the way the exhaust was was costing me some horse power amd I should open it up more.

20211023_132146.jpg
 
What would the performance increase vs cost be like?
Headers - tti C body headers are about $900, and the 3" kit is another $700-800. Haven't checked pricing lately. So figure at least $2k USD to your door. I got them some years ago for one of my cars with a 440. Did I need to have them, no, but I wanted them. I love the sound of the system, it's great and makes me smile. Performance - probably nothing in all honesty. The engine has a .484 Purple shaft cam, 2500 stall convertor, and that's about it. Sounds a little choppy, and goes good after 2500rpm.

So $ vs power, you're better off spending the money on suspension and brakes to make the car handle better. My 383 4 barrel car with 2.5" exhaust isn't too much different than the 440 car, other than noise.
 
Canadian_fury66 speaking from my personal experience, you will regret going with headers unless you schill out big bux for the TTi headers.
Headers in general are a pain--especislly in a C body.
These 2 C's have 4bbl 383's log manifolds.
The blue 66 factory cam and lopo logs and my 68 has a warmed up 383 with the HP manifolds.
Both cars have the 2.5" TTI systems with H pipe and Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers.
Both cars perform very well without headers and the exhaust systems are worth every penny. Nice burble yet quiet on the highway and bedt of all. NO EXHAUST LEAKS!
Hope this helps.
FB_IMG_1629949235325.jpg
 
Looks like factory pipes to the mufflers, which are not OEM nor the tail pipes. As I recall, the OEM pipes are 2.25" ID, which is fine. If the mufflers are the same in and out, then you've already got a decent system. Provided the mufflers are decent. The referenced Walkers are good, but look-a-likes might not be. Plenty of capacity for a 383 or 440, even with some upgrades.

In one respect, if you look at the power coming out of modern V-8 (engines with single exhausts (or single exhaust, dual outlet systems with 2" exit pipes), even the dual 2.5 pipes on a reasonably stock engine are a bit of overkill.

Get the tail pipes "fixed" with a correct end configuration and you'll be fine.

As for headers, once you have some, you might not do it again in later life, very possibly. Unless you spend the big bucks for a very high quality pair. With great header gaskets, too. I tend to concur with spending that money on the chassis items mentioned.

Just because ot makes more "sounds" does not equate to more power, in so many situations. Not unlike flipping the lid of a 4bbl air cleaner to "hear the secondaries kick in". But then some people like to make noise and attract "red lights in their rear view mirrors", by observation. Going quickly with "happy sounds" is best.

Not to sound flaky, but if you want to make noise, get a Mustang. Seems that their owners like manual transmissions and enjoy driving them in the lower gears so they can make noise from some aftermarket exhaust system. The 5.0 crowd with Flowmasters was bad enough, but the newer "GT people" seem to be worse in this respect.

Your money, your dreams . . .

CBODY67
 
For C Bodies TTI is the best fit. I would stick with the 2.5" TTI exhaust instead of the 3" version.
 
3" is overkill and will kill bottom end performance.
Headers over time tend to be problematic. I would keep an eye out for some HP manifolds. Cheaper than headers, last a long time and are factree. And factree pipes still bolt right up.
On my 65 383 Sport Fury I used some manifolds off a 70 440 Charger R/T and it all fit like a glove.
 
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