How to remove Roll Pin

SF-66TC

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Removed my steering box and awaiting replacement. Need to remove the pot coupling from the worm shaft. A Roll Pin secures the pot coupling to the shaft and looks to be accessible from either side, however one hole is initially larger than the other.

My question - "Is there a reason for the two different size holes... is one IN and the other OUT? Assuming I'll need to get a 1/4" flat punch to do the job. Once the Roll Pin is removed can it be used again or does it need to be replaced?

-Steven

Larger Opening -
2016-01-23%2015.43.15.jpg


Smaller Opening
2016-01-23%2015.44.07.jpg
 
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It doesn't matter which way you go, you will need a flat punch. The pic is reusable.


Alan
 
I used a Philips Screw driver and a Hammer, a few good whacks and got it out. You should be able to reuse the pin.
 
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This is the absolute best pro trick I have for this... and cheap versions of all of these are available at many of the cheap tool stores. Roll Pin Punches have a "button at the end which is great help when starting them. Air chisel doesn't have to be strong to do this, works really well when you can't get a hammer swing. The flat hammer adaptor for the air hammer is not uncommon and makes this much easier. Mine are Snap On and expensive, but there is no need to spend that much to do this as a hobby. Wear protective goggles and leather gloves... impact tools, especially cheap ones can fail with shrapnel flying.
 
I used a Philips Screw driver and a Hammer, a few good whacks and got it out. You should be able to reuse the pin.
Not the best choice of tools. Screwdrivers are for driving screws.
 
Love roll pin punches, they work great but I never had to use the air hammer with them.
 
Love roll pin punches, they work great but I never had to use the air hammer with them.

Steering rack on a neon comes to mind... but used the trick elsewhere a hammer swing was awkward.
 
I always push it toward the side with the bigger hole/recessed area because that is usually the facing up side on reinstallation for straight wheel and matching the master spline.
 
Snapon make a few different sizes of roll pin punches made specifically for air hammers and for steering box shafts, but like was mentioned they aren't cheap. Lots of clubs get together and buy specialty tools like this, and share the cost between members, then the members share them. Like I have on my receipts "Good tools aren't cheap...cheap tools aren't good"
 
I always push it toward the side with the bigger hole/recessed area because that is usually the facing up side on reinstallation for straight wheel and matching the master spline.

Thanks Dave - I just picked up a Craftsman roll pin set and the roll pin looks to be a 5/16". I figured it would be easier to punch the roll pin out towards the larger end as you mentioned since the punch fits exactly in the smaller hole.

I'm assuming it needs to be installed exactly in the same place on the replacement gear box as well as the pitman arm? Can you suggest the best way for proper alignment? - Steven
 
Master spline on the sector shaft (big one for pitman arm) should face directly rearward.

So Dave, this is how I'm imagining the steps to ensure proper alignment of all pieces...

(1) Center steering wheel horizontally
(2) See how studs on rag joint are positioned
(3) Align pot couplers shaft end to match studs on rag joint
(4) Ensure Master Spline is facing rearward
(5) Insert collar of pot coupler onto steering box spline with larger hole of Roll Pin facing upward
(6) Insert roll-pin to lock pot coupler/shaft from dislocating

Here's a link to photos I took showing steps 1-5
share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0FZsnDRi3ZMfM
 
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