I started another turbo build....

Member's Projects & Restorations

  1. furious70

    furious70 Well-Known Member

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    Cruddy hemi now meets high school restoration Coronet. Had to grind on the conversion mounts (need a little more yet)
    I was surprised the alt fit with the car FEAD, I didn't think they usually do, but it's going to be in the way of turbo plumbing. Figured I'd need a truck. FEAD from the start.

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  2. furious70

    furious70 Well-Known Member

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    Been trying to figure out how to get a T6 framed turbo to best fit. They are big and the 5" downpipe trunk ain't no joke to snake around. I think the best bet is going to be a 45* placement, putting the turbo partway into the wheel well (~3" or so), and running the downpipe out there too. Not sure about whether to punch it back inside the well or cut and box the frame and floor to gain clearance to run it outside then in.
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    I run pizza cutters up front so that helps, quite a bit of room up there. Air 2 air intercooler routing could be a challenge but might be able to run a a water to air on the dr's side. The piece of wood was 4" pipe, the white and blue cardboard tubes are 5". Very sophisticated.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2020
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  3. polara71

    polara71 Old Man with a Hat

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    WOW! I Always admire guys like you. I'm still trying to figure out how to open this year old can of wax...:confused:
     
  4. furious70

    furious70 Well-Known Member

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    well, there's no magic for me. It's a lot of time standing there with a blank look on my face. I wish I had more loose ends around to trial fit. Though I have a wealth of that now having done the Fury, I actually had to cut up virgin pieces for the Fury to test, thereby wasting some stuff. You have to really focus on serviceability as well as fitment. It's one thing to stuff it in there, it's another to do it in such a way that you can actually R&R the parts and remove as little as possible to get to other pieces. Example here is running the downpipe out in the well, not only will that keep underhood cooler, it would make access to that whole side of the engine super easy - even so much as to be able to remove the engine without having to remove the turbo or downpipe.
     
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  5. furious70

    furious70 Well-Known Member

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    When a T6 is going to require more work than you want - buy a next gen T4 that should be worth 100hp more than I plan to use.

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  6. furious70

    furious70 Well-Known Member

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    Well, I got the hard part of the project done, the vanity plates finally came! (Had to go with my second spelling choice)

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  7. furious70

    furious70 Well-Known Member

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    I haven't updated at all through the summer but I did a lot of trial fitting trying to find the best turbo placement to ease fabrication and maintenance. It's very easy to get started only to find out you put the BOV in a place you can't actually get a wrench on or as I did with this one, got really excited about a low mount position, forgetting I didn't have an oil filter on it...

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  8. 3175375

    3175375 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    You’ll figure it out. Remember, you said yourself that you got the hard part done!
     
  9. furious70

    furious70 Well-Known Member

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    I'm pretty sure I've got the best plan sorted out:
    A wrinkle with the hemi vs BB is the exhaust isn't symmetrical, to run manifolds flipped forward you have to drill and tap for the bolts. That is ok once maybe but not if I start to go through engines over time.
    I'm ok with cutting the fender wells, it's a 318 car. So the turbo will go in a conventional location, down pipe out into the well, down under the frame and back into the cross member. Manifolds go as normal, hot side goes low on pass side.
     
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