Same basic specs as prior Chryslers used, as I recall.
In genera (my numbers)l: 0 Camber, Max Caster (probably end up about +1.5 degrees), Minimize Toe-in to about 1/16" or so. Do these adjustments with the driver and/or "normal load" as the car would see daily, for a bit finer adjustment.
In the earlier 1980s, the then-new OEM "All Season" tires had blocky treads on them. If they were not rotated every oil change, they'd get a noisy wear pattern on them. It was also discovered that they needed a "minimum toe-in" setting, too, for long life.
IF a good bit of your driving in on "crowned roads", the cross-caster setting can be used to compensate for that at a bit. So the steering wheel is still mostly "straight", if desired.
KEY thing, with torsion bars, is that the car is sitting level (as in rocker panel parallel to the road surface). With the front end lower than it should be (i.e., specs), it will affect the effective caster in a negative manner. So keep the rocker panel parallel to the road surface for best results.
Now . . . when the cars were new, the radial tire "craze" was just hitting the USA. Radials were standard on my Chryslers, back then. Usually Goodyears. The local Chry service manager "talked" about the new radial tires. On his side of things, if the car was aligned perfectly to specs, it might still "pull to one side", no matter what. As this cas usually caused by the tires, the "word" came down to alter the caster adjustment in order to get the cars to drive straight and please the customers. In his words, deliberatly putting the front end "out of alignment" to compensate for the poor quality (obviously) of the tires. Which meant they had lots of cars on the lot with bias-belted tires on them, if possible. After a few model years, things seemed to get back to normal. I suspect that current radials are just fine, though.
Enjoy!
CBODY67