Introducing a 1970 300 TNT convertible

ayilar

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All that work and you couldn't score a decent NOS washer bottle??
:lol:
Well, your honor, I have been known to buy a whole car and just keep the washer bottle :eek:

But first things first: getting her back to roadworthiness was the main objective, and now we can start going through the rest. If you noticed, the engine bay also needs splash guards, the aftermarket radio and speakers need removed and correct kicker panels need installed, etc.

Can't wait to see this one in July at Carlisle!

:thumbsup:
Next year at Carlisle is highly likely for the TNT. The one sure attendee is Buttercup, my 1972 NYB, as it is the 50-year mark for her. One car I'd also like to bring again is Poppy, my 1970 red Polara 'vert, but I am not sure yet if I'll have the manpower to bring three cars.
 
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david hill

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Here are some picks of the Shock install. I had forgotten about it. I am also including Kenny's Radiator Business card. Rear shocks were stubborn, but not that bad. as seen in the photos big creases in both lower tubes . The front shocks were nothing but trouble. Shocks used were NOT for a C body. That caused the lower control arms to bend at the lower shock mount location plus the upper mount was eroded at the tread that cutting off was the only option. Breaking the remaining exsposed thread of and cutting down through the nut is a doable solution. I use Kenny's Radiator for all radiator work. See his business card below.
 

david hill

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photos

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chippers65300

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Very Nice. Beautiful car. Damn the mice. Need to pull my heater/ac case and do some cleaning myself.... especially after seeing the mess that came out of yours. I've been noticing lots of dust coming from my vents with A/C or heater on.
 

ayilar

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Winter is finally coming, and I have started getting parts for further restoring the TNT. This Sunday, I bought new control arm and torsion bar splash shields from Detroit Muscle Technologies. The material is ".090" masticated rubber with cotton fibers like OEM"; the shields come "with (32) stainless steel mounting clips" that @david hill said would be needed.

The total cost with tax, S&H was $50.75 directly form the manufacturer (DTM) on eBay.

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saforwardlook

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As you guys know, I like to record what goes into my cars, for future reference for others and to keep track. Here goes, for the last batch:

1. The original 2998970 radiator was recored (cost: $480) by a specialist that @david hill recommended, and then refinished by David himself. David then replaced the Spectra CU332 that I had bought for the TNT in spring, and that radiator will be used in another car. The total price for the restoration was less than half what a correct reproduction would have cost, and the result is great -- performance and looks. David told me that he would post info about the radiator specialist in this or another thread.

2. For the trans service, I followed David's advice on the ATF and went for Valvoline 773636 DEX/MERC transmission fluid. It was much cheaper at Walmart than at Summit, so David bought 12 quarts locally. From Summit, I bought WIX 58707 transmission filters ($11.99+...). The WIX 58707 filters are sold as a package with gaskets but, while the filters get great reviews, the gaskets show they have problems so I bought a Moroso 93110 transmission pan gasket ($32.99 + T/S/H) from Summit (as for my other C-bodies, as recommended by @sixpkrt and @71Polara383).

3. For the shocks, David installed the KYB Gas-A-Just shocks that I'd bought in spring: KG4507 up front and KG5512 in the rear.

Cheers!

A question for either @ayilar or @david hill is whether in using the original torqueflite transmission pan in conjunction with the new Summit gasket, did you indeed experience no drips since the installation? This is indeed a nuisance with the Torqueflites. The Summit video links their Moroso gasket with the sturdy Moroso aluminum deep pan to achieve leak free results. So I was wondering when using the original mopar pan that has been checked and straightened along the flange as needed whether this gasket really did the job? Maybe Wyatt @71Polara383 or Tim @sixpkrt have some comments to add as well in terms of their experiences as well?
 

david hill

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A question for either @ayilar or @david hill is whether in using the original torqueflite transmission pan in conjunction with the new Summit gasket, did you indeed experience no drips since the installation? This is indeed a nuisance with the Torqueflites. The Summit video links their Moroso gasket with the sturdy Moroso aluminum deep pan to achieve leak free results. So I was wondering when using the original mopar pan that has been checked and straightened along the flange as needed whether this gasket really did the job? Maybe Wyatt @71Polara383 or Tim @sixpkrt have some comments to add as well in terms of their experiences as well?
In this case the transmission pan was exceptionally straight. The Summit pan gasket required longer pan bolts and washers. Through repeated drive cycles the trans pan remained bone dry. The Summit gasket address the sealing problem well. Common sense prevails of course that the trans pan must be reasonably straight.
 

3C's & a D?

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I once splurged on the moroso transmission gasket, it's been leak free with the original pan for five years now. I believe another brand makes a similar gasket, steel core, silicone, but with a series of ridges, or fingers along the two flats, which I think is a better design.

I like to use the original style cork gaskets, on the valve covers too, and to improve them I give them two or three coats of aerosol high tack spray gasket. That essentially seals them and greatly extends their service life. Even then, they won't last as long as the silicone. They will look better though!
 

Big_John

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I used Mopar Part #2464324AC.

Best trans gasket I've ever used, hands down. Reusable too.
 

ayilar

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Today is April 1st, the first day when extended antique plates may be used — so I took the TNT out for a two-hour drive.

She had been garaged since Nov. 30. Well, she started right up! Three gas pedal pushes, and she started on the second turn of the key!

Thanks to @david hill´s work last year, she tracks straight and drives/brakes beautifully. Here is a pic I took next to a landmark along the way!

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saforwardlook

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A truly beautiful car that is pretty much how I would have ordered it new - colors and all. You scored!
 

71FuryGC

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Sweet Home Chicago? Looking good in the hood Ayilar! I'm in my second week driving my 71 Fury and the last time it was out was mid December. Fired right up too!
 

SGVert

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Today is April 1st, the first day when extended antique plates may be used — so I took the TNT out for a two-hour drive.

She had been garaged since Nov. 30. Well, she started right up! Three gas pedal pushes, and she started on the second turn of the key!

Thanks to @david hill´s work last year, she tracks straight and drives/brakes beautifully. Here is a pic I took next to a landmark along the way!

View attachment 523596
I think Illinois extended the months for the EA plates. Here’s a link to what I found…

 

Xenon

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ayilar

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I think Illinois extended the months for the EA plates. Here’s a link to what I found…

Thx! Funny thing is I knew about the November extension (that’s why I had last driven the car on Nov. 30) but I mis-remembered the extra March month of driving time. Given the weather (there was salt on the road in mid-March still) and my work travel schedule, it did not matter this year — but I’ll be sure to remember next year.
I was about to go re-new the regular plates on the wagon...
Now I am definitely getting EA.. Oh hell yes.. !
Indeed. AFAICT, the main reasons to get regular plates on a classic car in Illinois would be to use it as a winter beater or, instead, if one plans to drive it in the winter where there is no salt — for example if one takes said classic car south and away from the salt at that time.
 

ayilar

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So the state of Illinois tells you when you can drive your car? Wow, that sucks.

For once, I respectfully disagree with you. IL residents have a choice when registering their classic cars: (i) pay the regular registration fee for 12 months of unrestricted driving, as one would for a daily driver; or, (ii) pay much less for extended antique (EA) plates that allow for 9 months of unrestricted driving (Mar-Nov) and 3 winter months of driving restricted to maintenance trips (Dec-Feb).

This registration system is IMHO very friendly to classic car owners. I am happy to have a choice. No-brainer, as @Xenon indicated, given that the IL weather in Dec-Feb is pretty awful most days and salt is used liberally on roads during the winter -- so it is extremely unlikely that one would want to drive a classic in winter. Still, some folks might want to, and everyone is given the choice -- which I think is cool.

PS: There was a related discussion last Fall, but if memory serves it turned political and so may have been removed (or moved to the political section, which I have elected not to join). Regardless, I can't find the link.
 
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ayilar

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Back to the car. Here are two photos taken inside the car during the drive. The original rimblow steering wheel is cracked, but thanks to a generous member I have a correct NOS replacement.

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