Is there no source for OEM HVAC parts and rebuilding?

[Henrius]

Last time I looked (several years ago) there were companies that would repair AC/heater control systems for MOPARS.

Now all I can find is vendors who want to sell complete systems to replace the original equipment. Seems all the Google search results I get are sponsored.

Isn't there anyone who rebuilds things like the vacuum control block and plenum? I had my V2 compressor rebuilt on my 1965 Fury and am trying to keep the system original.

 

[CBODY67]

Are you searching for C-body parts or B/E-body parts? Or "Mopar" in general? Might find more in the B-body arena, possibly.

Just curious,
CBODY67

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

From what I gathered, he hopes to rebuild or get rebuilt specifically the AC/Heat push button controller vacuum unit, and possibly the actual entire heater box (I only assume that by his term "plenum").

There are videos out there, and there is a guy who rebuilds the push button controller - I can't remember who that is, but I think @Big_John has that info.
Lots of info here: Rebuilding the ac/heater control switch

Brent Ball at Mr Heaterbox ( Welcome — Mr Heaterbox and Interior Restoration Services ) does the entire box (and pushbutton units too, I believe). Expensive, but highly respected. I am thinking of saving up for this myself. I have 3 boxes to play with, so I may buy the kit and see if I can do it myself first.

AC Heaterbox kits are available from Detroit Muscle Car
Mopar C Body 65-68 AC Heater Box Rebuild Restoration Seal Gasket Kit

 

[Big_John]

There are videos out there, and there is a guy who rebuilds the push button controller - I can't remember who that is, but I think @Big_John has that info.

This is all I have on it. How To Rebuild a Vacuum Heater Control Switch

 

[Henrius]

Yeah, a lot for E/E body parts for sure. But am looking for C-body parts for a 1965 Fury and 1972 Newport.

 

[saforwardlook]

If you are looking for a good rebuilt a/c compressor, you should consider this guy:

RV2 A/C COMPRESSOR WITH CLUTCH FITS MANY CHRYSLER AND DODGE | eBay

This RV2 unit is compatible with most Dodge, Plymouth, and Chrysler vehicles from 1969 and up. We warranty these units for 1 year period provided a new drier, expansion valve are installed and system is flushed clean and dry, they are filled with ester oil and compatible with R12 and R134.

www.ebay.com

Impressive feedback given the number of sales and really good feedback.................................

 

[david hill]

Many b body heater control vac switches will work on C body Chryslers. The one requirement is they be manual A/C equipped. New Port, New Yorker, 300 and some B bodies definitely interchange. see photo.

 

[Henrius]

Thanks so much for this revelation about interchangeability!

 

[3175375]

The vacuum actuators are not reproduced. A couple of years ago, I found some nos units on fleabay. I took one apart to see if I could repair it, and it’s possible. However, I chose to spend the $ and get nos equipment.

 

[Henrius]

You mean NOS duplicates of what were there, or modern updated equivalents? If the former, where did you find NOS?

Had an owner of an automotive A/C repair shop the other day. No, he does not want to mess with old cars anymore. Said vacuum-operated actuators are nearly extinct. They are now electromechanical these days.

 

[3175375]

You mean NOS duplicates of what were there, or modern updated equivalents? If the former, where did you find NOS?

Had an owner of an automotive A/C repair shop the other day. No, he does not want to mess with old cars anymore. Said vacuum-operated actuators are nearly extinct. They are now electromechanical these days.

Duplicates. I searched for the Mopar part number

 

[65CopCar]

Don't trust NOS. I have NOS in my 67 Coronet (same one) and its bad. Not all functions works. I have several NOS ones and I will be rebuilding them along with the blower switch (my spare is bad). I just have not had time yet.

I have the capability to machine most of the parts including the vacuum plate if necessary. Someone used to make them quite a few years ago.

The newer ones are much more readily available and are much cheaper than the older ones. But there are more pins and you need to know how to connect it. I documented all that and posted it either on this site or FBBO. Let me find it.

 

[65CopCar]

Previous post on the switches......

6

Post in thread '1966 Sport Fury push button heater AC switch'

May 26, 2025

And I have verified from the factory service manuals that the vacuum ports are the same between the 2 version of switches. So basically you just leave that one electrical pin off. No reason to not use the newer version switch in my opinion.

• 65CopCar

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

The vacuum control block for 65 and 6y Fury is very hard to find NOS, and when one does they're stupid expensive, as well as it may be bad out of the box as noted.
I searched by part number for some time with little success, as the same switch is used in my 66s.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Previous post on the switches......

6

Post in thread '1966 Sport Fury push button heater AC switch'

May 26, 2025

And I have verified from the factory service manuals that the vacuum ports are the same between the 2 version of switches. So basically you just leave that one electrical pin off. No reason to not use the newer version switch in my opinion.

• 65CopCar

@65CopCar - can you possibly post a picture that shows which electrical pin on the modern vacuum controller switch you "leave off"?

Is it something where I could trim or cut that terminal away so that my harness simply plugs on?

It's been a while since I've returned to this particular project, but my memory tells me that the pin (wiring terminal) configuration for the harness connectors on the back of my dash were somewhat different than those of the later versions of the vacuim controller, and I wasn't it sure how to make it work with my factory harness.

 

[65CopCar]

@65CopCar - can you possibly post a picture that shows which electrical pin on the modern vacuum controller switch you "leave off"?

Is it something where I could trim or cut that terminal away so that my harness simply plugs on?

It's been a while since I've returned to this particular project, but my memory tells me that the pin (wiring terminal) configuration for the harness connectors on the back of my dash were somewhat different than those of the later versions of the vacuim controller, and I wasn't it sure how to make it work with my factory harness.

They are in my shop. I may be in the shop later today, either way I will get pics as soon as I can.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Thanks - no rush!

 

[65CopCar]

@65CopCar - can you possibly post a picture that shows which electrical pin on the modern vacuum controller switch you "leave off"?

Is it something where I could trim or cut that terminal away so that my harness simply plugs on?

It's been a while since I've returned to this particular project, but my memory tells me that the pin (wiring terminal) configuration for the harness connectors on the back of my dash were somewhat different than those of the later versions of the vacuim controller, and I wasn't it sure how to make it work with my factory harness.

Ross - look at the attached pdf. The layouts are pictorially correct and roughly to scale. This harness should be from a 67 B body - almost positive that the B Body and C Body should be the same at the switch, I can verify if necessary from the FSM. The 67 should be the same as your 66. I cannot 100% verify at this point, but I am quite certain that the 3 individual connectors are the ones that go into the back of your switch and the black wire with tracer is from a different harness. Therefore you just plug your individual connectors onto the new style switch onto the correct pins. The color of the wires supports this conclusion.

 

[65CopCar]

I looked at the FSM for 66 C body, 67 B Body and 67 C body. There are subtle differences. 67 B body calls for the Black wire to have a tracer and 67 C body (66 C Body that wire color is not called out) is just straight black. 67 C body has 2 light green wires connected together all others have just one green wire. In general, the guidance is the same.

Hate to say it, but 67 B Body is a little confusing. They show the light green wire being jumpered to the black connection instead of both being fed from separate fuses, but the wiring harness does not support that. Wonder if that is a mistake? All others have the black and light green going to separate fuses.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

OK, thanks! I took a look at the picture - very very helpful! Much appreciated!

So, @Henrius - this helps you too. The document that @65CopCar posted will allow you to buy a brand new vacuum controller switch for your AC dash, and not worry about the differences in how the wires hook up. Much better, and much cheaper than what I went through trying source an original, and then possibly having to rebuild it.

LOTS of brand new replacements on eBay. Some will say 1968, but the part number is the same. Also, there are supercedes to newer part numbers, but the switch is the same.
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