Is this kickdown linkage complete?

Isaiah Estrada

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Unfortunately, when I got the New Yorker - it had no trans. Any and all linkages for the car were left hanging. Because of that, I’m now unsure if this kickdown I have is incomplete.

I’m very excited to say that we are CLOSE to having the engine in the car finally!

Now I’m just really trying to make inventory of stuff I need.

419B820D-02CE-49D9-9A60-112B25E45594.jpeg


Here is what I have off of the 68. Again, 440 car - 4 BBL from the factory. Also a look at my shift linkage, as I’m not sure if any of this is supposed to tie in

F9098C6A-7FC8-43EE-BBC5-CAB850A6F29B.jpeg


I must be looking in the wrong place in the FSM, but I couldn’t see anything on my linkages. I appreciate any help. Thanks!
 
I think the drawings are in the transmission section

You are missing the intermediate rod and the lower bell-crank pivot bolt.


Alan
 
I think the drawings are in the transmission section

You are missing the intermediate rod and the lower bell-crank pivot bolt.


Alan

Thanks! Now to set out and find that piece… seems like factory kickdown linkages are real hard to find and super $$$
 
I should have all of it. I’ll check.
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That would be great! Please let me know.
Is the lever still attached to your trans?
It looks like you’re just missing the rod that goes from the bell crank to the trans lever and maybe all the clips.
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Looks like you need the stud that holds the bell crank on case as well. Did that trans come out of your car?
 
The car unfortunately had no transmission when I got it. Had to go out and find this one
It may not have the right lever(s) on the trans then. See how the ones below clocked differently And are different lengths? Who knows how many different levers were used through the years. Luckily the trans in my pics is from a ‘67 and has the lever(s) you need.
Take your levers off and let’s get a better look at the shift lever that’s directly underneath.

5EEC32F0-AF33-4FEF-B404-D752D2544144.jpeg
 
It may not have the right lever(s) on the trans then. See how the ones below clocked differently And are different lengths? Who knows how many different levers were used through the years. Luckily the trans in my pics is from a ‘67 and has the lever(s) you need.
Take your levers off and let’s get a better look at the shift lever that’s directly underneath.

View attachment 555415

Here’s what I got!

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To be quite honest, I’m not even sure what this tranny came out of. It has the right number of splines for my driveshaft though…

Here are the castings on it

181727D6-F837-4B5E-8B14-AAAE6D61873D.jpeg


PK2801541J 2320 5696 W S

5AE16F80-C538-4A81-B880-0B61593191F6.jpeg


2801261 - 7 KCP

Not sure if this can identify the trans or not or if it even helps with getting the correct levers…
 
To be quite honest, I’m not even sure what this tranny came out of. It has the right number of splines for my driveshaft though…

Here are the castings on it

View attachment 555424

PK2801541J 2320 5696 W S

View attachment 555425

2801261 - 7 KCP

Not sure if this can identify the trans or not or if it even helps with getting the correct levers…
That’s a proper trans for your car! ‘67/8 B & C body 383 4bbl and 440 HP dated December 4th of ‘67.
 
Your shift lever looks right.
 
That’s a proper trans for your car! ‘67/8 B & C body 383 4bbl and 440 HP dated December 4th of ‘67.
Your shift lever looks right.

Good to know! How funny, it ended up being real close in age to my car itself (scheduled build date of September 1 of ‘67.

Now I could just be overthinking things, but I happened to notice that I don’t feel any clicks between gears on this selector shaft. Could it be because there’s no fluid at all inside the trans? It’s bone dry after a rebuild.

I’ve attached a link to a video I made of what I’m experiencing

 
Now I could just be overthinking things, but I happened to notice that I don’t feel any clicks between gears on this selector shaft. Could it be because there’s no fluid at all inside the trans? It’s bone dry after a rebuild
I've had this issue before. What probably happened is that the indent ball and/or spring failed. Best drop the pan and be sure. Don't want to have the trans change gears accidentally out on the road.

Similar pic from the net, yours may be slightly different:
22771-12K_combo.jpg
 
Yep, you should feel each detent firmly.
 
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