Land Yacht (77 Newport Custom)

Blish

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Location
South Carolina, USA
Figured I'd hop on this forum topic here. This is my 77 newport, 400, 727, ac, am/fm, tilt/tele, reclining seat, rear defroster, "road wheels". 4 dr sedan body in custom trim, with the "road trip" package. Never heard of it, but this is a unit of a road trip car!

I think I got the car a month ago now. 1200 bucks, and 9 bucks in part got me a running car. Bad condenser but the guy couldn't figure out all the issues with the car.

So far I've found about 18,000 wires, and I don't think a single one was connected to anything in any way, if I recall correctly.

She did run on the gas that was put in it in 2008, so thats a plus. Then again I poured 8 gallons of new gas over the old, with a bottle of seafoam, a bottle of Lucas, and 2 bottles of heet and 2 bottles of octane booster.

Maybe I should start making my own fuel formula, and selling it as "old starting fuel" for $15 a gallon. Because boy was this a concoction.

But she ran well, cleaned up nice, I changed on the oil with 15W-40 diesel oil and a napa filter, and then again with 5W-30 pennzoil, and a Purolator oil filter. Been running dexron VI in the tyranny. So far not a problem.

I drove it today, after fixing my ignition issues. The car is beautiful, just gorgeous. Rides smooth too! I dod re key the front bars, that helped the alignment a bit and it set the car level, and it also keeps it from scraping on my driveway.

Next up I may straight pipe it just to have a little fun. Eventually when I get my street truck finished I'm going to take the engine out the car and rebuild it into a moderate performance engine. Probably put a different gear in it. Also a 4 speed swap was in mind. But that may be a project for a different day, or a different car. I may just slap a OD unit to the tailshaft of the car and call it good.

It does spin both tires. On gravel. With a miracle.

It couldn't pull a sailor off your sister if it was pointed downhill, but it really wasn't designed to be a racer, more so of a cruiser. So it will be treated as such. Speed limit, easy acceleration.

Oops! I gotta leave an hour before work so I can make the 10 mile commute. Boy it would be nice if it got to 60 before kingdom come!

Later days... here's some pics of the car. Kinda looks like a 80's mob boss car at night. Or a villan car in some good guy bad guy movie.

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Ignore the battery cables. I have the correct battery installed now, that was a battery from my truck which has the posts backwards.

Fun fact ford vehicles usually have the battery posts backwards compared to other companies cars at the time. Especially Ford trucks (mine is a 76 F100)
 
Do I see correctly that the car has two fender tags? What do they say?
 
Good score. As I recall, the 400s from back then were credible performers, even with the stock 2.71 rear axle ratio. Get it tuned well and drive it a while so all of the fuel system gets cleaned out and working a bit better, plus the new oil has more detergents than the old stuff probably did, too. Find the build sheet, too, for good mesure.

Get the chassis set-up figured out (32psi frt/30psi rear) with some decent whitewalls on it. THEN take it on a 100 mile trip and begin to appreciate the fine road cars they could be. NOT just because of the characteristics of the Chrysler torsion bar/rear leaf suspension's general smoothness, but also the more-direct steering response and such. Might need some good HD shocks, too,

With a 2.71 rear axle and P225/75R-15 tires, it's going to be running about 28mpg/1000rom in 3rd gear. No need to go to an OD set-up with that "downhill" (as some termed them) highway gears, unless you go to something like a 3.55 rear axle to basically end up with very similar overall rear axle ratio in OD. Spending a good bit of money just to have the same cruise rpm, it seems.

If the trans seems to upshift a bit early (as most TFs were seemingly designed to do, back then and prior), put a smaller zip tie in the rear bottom of the slot on the kickdown rod at the carb. That should raise the part-throttle shift points a few mph and make the car feel better in normal driving. Leaving torque multiplication in the lower gears to "gears" rather than "on the converter" at small throttle opennings, by observation. Not the thinnest ties, but the one just thicker than them. Just one.

Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBODY67
 
I remember road-tripping from PA to GA in our 1976 Newport. What a pleasure it was! It was around 100 degrees in Atlanta every day we were there, but that good old Chrysler A/C kept the inside of that car like an icebox!
 
I have closer to 1700 in it so far. I resealed the back window, replaced the radiator, alot of the wiring, the battery, and
Nice Score! $1509 and road wheels to boot!:thumbsup:
I have to replace the alternator as well as it seems to be weak. But, I cant complain, for under 2 grand, i feel like I could turn around and sell it for 5 grand at any point. Or more, to the right person. Who knows, I have alot of projects lol.
 
Good score. As I recall, the 400s from back then were credible performers, even with the stock 2.71 rear axle ratio. Get it tuned well and drive it a while so all of the fuel system gets cleaned out and working a bit better, plus the new oil has more detergents than the old stuff probably did, too. Find the build sheet, too, for good mesure.

Get the chassis set-up figured out (32psi frt/30psi rear) with some decent whitewalls on it. THEN take it on a 100 mile trip and begin to appreciate the fine road cars they could be. NOT just because of the characteristics of the Chrysler torsion bar/rear leaf suspension's general smoothness, but also the more-direct steering response and such. Might need some good HD shocks, too,

With a 2.71 rear axle and P225/75R-15 tires, it's going to be running about 28mpg/1000rom in 3rd gear. No need to go to an OD set-up with that "downhill" (as some termed them) highway gears, unless you go to something like a 3.55 rear axle to basically end up with very similar overall rear axle ratio in OD. Spending a good bit of money just to have the same cruise rpm, it seems.

If the trans seems to upshift a bit early (as most TFs were seemingly designed to do, back then and prior), put a smaller zip tie in the rear bottom of the slot on the kickdown rod at the carb. That should raise the part-throttle shift points a few mph and make the car feel better in normal driving. Leaving torque multiplication in the lower gears to "gears" rather than "on the converter" at small throttle opennings, by observation. Not the thinnest ties, but the one just thicker than them. Just one.

Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBODY67
Wow that was a chunk to read! The car actually has a 2.76 axle if i recall correctly. Its a 8.25 chrysler. It does have a set of 255/75 white walls already on it, and the tires are in great shape. I beleive they were installed a few years ago. So far ive been getting about 15 ish when i stay out of it, which surprised me a little tbh.

The purpose of the OD unit was infact to keep the same cruising rpm, while making a 4 speed automatic of sorts. To improve acceleration. And id only do it if its still sluggish with a built engine in it.

Ill probably end up leaving it mostly stock, I dont plan to keep the car forever, It is an investment of sorts. So far I have under 2k in it andI may sell it for profit sometime in the future, if i find another project. I have 2 more at the moment (76 F100 bagged street truck, 87 ram 50 overlanding rig).

Thanks for the write up, it has been shifting a little early. I will try this tomorrow when I get home.
 
M45 Fender Skirts

N88 Auto Speed Control

N94 Fresh Air Hood Fiber

P31 Power Windows

P41 Power Door Locks

H51 Single Air /W Heater

L31 HD/Fender Mount Turn Signal

L35 Cornering Lamps

L81 Door Ajar Indicator Lamp

M15 Upper Door Front Molding

A03 3 Speed Deluxe Wiper Package

A06 Sport Group/AC/Group70/71

C58 50/50 Bench Seat

C97 Trunk Dress Up Package

C11 “Tinted Glass”

G53 Electric Adjustable Mirrors

ME8 Vintage Red Sunfire Metallic

V1E Full vinyl Roof Variable Color Red

U Built To USA Market Specifications

100 Non Cali Emissions

K5X Bodyside Moulding, protective vinyl insert black

A01 Light Package

ME8 Vintage Red Sunfire Metallic

H8E7 Interior trim level H, reclining bucket seat, interior colors are Red

LE8 Vintage Red Sunfire Metallic Lower Body Color

401 2.76 Axle Ratio

078111 Order Number

E64 400-4 V8 Engine

D36 727-b Torqueflite 72 UP

CL41 Assembled in Jefferson Ave. Detroit, Price Range Low, 4 Dr. Sedan Body Style

N7D Leather Seats

223987 serial number

S61 Tilt/Telescopic Steering Column

END end of options list

CL41 Assembled in Jefferson Ave. Detroit, Price Range Low, 4 Dr. Sedan Body Style

N7D Leather Seats

223987 serial number

this is what i determined after a couple hours of research. if theres anything that isnt correct on here please let me know.

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If it's an investment, sell it now. Your $500 over initial cost, do a couple more things and you'll be in for twice the cost. These cars just don't demand high dollars for the most part.

I'd leave it mostly as is, fix what is needed, and drive the wheels off it. Enjoy the fun of a cheap car and what it has to offer. To me it says "driver".
 
But it's a C-body....

I can appreciate the car as much as anybody else whos into cars, Im just not that crazy about it. It would be cool to keep it and drive it like it is, but the car I really want is a 72 monaco station wagon. I know where 2 sit that I may one day buy. I make plans, but I never follow through sometimes. Just as options.

In fact if anyone wants a mint condition 77, loaded with a 400, hit me up. Everything I own is always for sale, for the right price. This car is on the cheaper side of what id expect. Hit me in the pm's if anyone might be interested.
 
That's a whole lot of research. Here are some comments:

N94 Fresh Air Hood Fiber > ESA w/Catalyst [non-California, non-High Altitudes car]
A06 Sport Group/AC/Group70/71 > Easy Order Pkg
C11 “Tinted Glass” > G11 Tinted Glass - All
G53 Electric Adjustable Mirrors > G53 is not in the 1977 Sales Code list. Or does it rather read H53 Air Conditioning - Auto Temp Control?
100 Non Cali Emissions: Where did you find that?
401 2.76 Axle Ratio: You must be referring to the Scheduled Production Date here, so April 1 [1977]
CL41 Assembled in Jefferson Ave. Detroit, Price Range Low, 4 Dr. Sedan Body Style: the C means Chrysler Full-Size
N7D Leather Seats > 400-4 engine; 1977 model year; Belvidere Assembly

If you could post a picture of the fender tag(s), we can be sure about some things.
 
G53 Electric Adjustable Mirrors > G53 is not in the 1977 Sales Code list. Or does it rather read H53 Air Conditioning - Auto Temp Control?

But among 1974 sales codes I see

G53 - Mirror Remote Control, Left Outside

Does that apply to your car?
 
Yes I
But among 1974 sales codes I see

G53 - Mirror Remote Control, Left Outside

Does that apply to your car?

Yes it would

sorry i havent gotten pictures of the fender tags, i dropped my camera today. cell phone cam is broken also. im going to just buy a new phone and call it done there, even though the price is gonna bite me in the butt when im scraping for funds to finish my F100.

all those codes are across the 2 tags. i made not of which codes were the split but after a junkyard trip today and more numbers searching i forgot them by the time I got home.
 
This is my 77 Newport. Its a fun car. Did away with the lean burn have done little extra with exhaust and looking to change the gearing in the rear end. Car just floats down the road. 100 mph feels like your doing 60 and it just floats down the road. Awesome cruiser by no means a stop light to stop light car but it loves the open road.
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Nice car. Chryslers were designed to be "road cars" . . . "roads" which are much longer than 1/4 mile, to me. But with a firmer ride than a floating Buick.
 
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