Leaking A-745

['66 Fury I]

Last year I repaired the A-745 manual trans in my 66 Fury. The job was almost 100% successful. The trans works very well. During dis-assembly I had trouble removing the tapered pin which retains the second and third gear shift lever. I ended up resorting to drilling it out. The result is that although the pin performs well, the small (bottom) end of the hole in the trans case is enlarged and seeps lube.
My first attempt to solve the problem was to clean the area and apply J-B Weld's Steel Stik epoxy putty to the area. I cleaned with a wire wheel and Brake Kleen, and I thought I had done a good job. After a few weeks, the leak returned. Not as bad, but enough to raise "domestic" concerns!
Today, I ground the epoxy off and found, as expected, that not all the putty had bonded to the cast iron case, leaving a "channel" for the lube to follow.
The trans is drained and seems dry at the site. The Steel Stik is supposed to seal fuel tanks etc. Should I attempt to clean it better and try again? Should I use a different product?
I'm open for suggestions.

 

[CBODY67]

What about a 2-part "normal" J-B Weld product? Or something similar in a tube with a mixing nozzle on it? Then perhaps some #2 Permatex on the bolt for good measure?

 

['66 Fury I]

Thanks! "Normal" J-B is something I'm considering. There is no bolt, just the tapreed retainer pin. any thoughts on cleaning and application? Lindsay

 

[65CopCar]

Pictures? I'm having trouble picturing your issue.

I know only too well the difficulty of removing the tapered pins on a A745. I ended up with a solution that works pretty well. I made what looks like a C Clamp jig that puts pressure on the pin. Hammering on the jig and sometimes a little heat and they pop out.

I have many spare parts for A745s if you need something.

 

['66 Fury I]

I'll try to get a pic or two tomorrow, but it's not my strong point. Your clamp jig might have prevented the problem. Thanks! Lindsay

 

['66 Fury I]

This is the best pic I could manage. The image should be rotated 90* counter clockwise to be "right side up"! I will try to zoom in. I can't figure out how to do that, but you may be able to see the darker area between the pin and the cast trans case. This is the enlarged hole in the case. At the moment, it is filled with silicone and that is soggy with lube. I can dig the silicone out with a dental type pick. I suppose the Proper solution is to use an undamaged trans case, but it would save time, expense and labor if I can seal what I have. Any suggestions will be appreciated! Thanks! Lindsay

 

[65CopCar]

Now I remember! I think! LOL!

If I remember correctly, I reamed my hole a little larger and used a longer pin. I cut the pin to the length it needed to be. That would permanently solve your problem.

My trans rebuilder tried to get one pin out for 8 hours. He buggered my case up a little. That is why I had to ream my case oversize and use longer pins, and why I had to develop my jig to pop the pins out.

These are the pins I used (I had a reamer but a hand no. 1 reamer is what I recommend - not a reamer for a drill):

98390A199 Steel Taper Pin 0.172" Large End Diameter (NO. 1), 3" pack of 25 (mcmaster carr)

 

['66 Fury I]

Thanks, 65CopCar, That is without doubt the best way to repair my damage. My problem, however, is the labor and time to remove, dis-assemble, repair etc. Since the trans is woking well, I'm leaning toward attempting to reseal it, and hope for the best. If I remove it for some other reason, I'll fix it properly. Twenty years ago, however.......
Lindsay

 

['66 Fury I]

Update: I cleaned the area with acetone twice and brushed on two coats of J-B Weld. Trans is refilled and is not leaking, but the car has not been started yet. Just hoping for the best! Lindsay