losing power steering under acceleration

just wondered if it was cavitating under high rpms due to improper fluid or worn vanes.
Not that I can tell. The pump internals were in great shape with no noticeable wear. It doesnt have vanes but rollers in this version. I'm betting on the bypass....will look into that when I have a chance.
 
They are just hard to find/Get parts for and setup right... I switched to Saginaw on my car, and I've been very happy with it. Most good auto parts stores keep 1 Saginaw on the shelf.


What's wrong with federal pumps? I've heard the Saginaw was an upgrade but never a reason why.
 
What's wrong with federal pumps? I've heard the Saginaw was an upgrade but never a reason why.
As I understand it, the Saginaw is less likely to leak, has a better mounting bracket and has consistent pressure output.

The Federal has a two stage flow valve, something a Saginaw doesn't have, that lessons pressure at higher speeds. In theory, that gives you more assist at low speeds and better road feel at higher speeds. I've seen a lot of them leak and also seen the bracket fail.

Having eliminated the belt (usual issue) I think your problem is in the flow valve. Having rebuilt the pump might not have cured that if it was a problem to start with. In fact, a look at the FSM for trouble shooting shows flow valve as a probable cause of intermittent assist.
 
Well...I have looked and they are difficult to find. All out of stock like the brake boosters...but not Saginaw. Plentiful and cheap. I do not have the brackets for that or the pulley. Would it be better to source those from somewhere and buy the Saginaw or pay the higher price and get the federal (I have found them...just not cheap) I have no clue what the Saginaw parts would run me.
 
Well...I have looked and they are difficult to find. All out of stock like the brake boosters...but not Saginaw. Plentiful and cheap. I do not have the brackets for that or the pulley. Would it be better to source those from somewhere and buy the Saginaw or pay the higher price and get the federal (I have found them...just not cheap) I have no clue what the Saginaw parts would run me.
I really don't know what to advise. I half heartily looked into doing the conversion rather than fixing the leaky Federal on my car. A seal kit was cheaper and it was my plan to do this winter, but a cold garage and old bones... There are guys that swear by them, but I've never seen anyone that replaced a good Federal with a Saginaw. It's always "I replaced the leaky, whining Federal" so I can't say that they are really better.
 
My guess is that the two stage flow control valve is causing the problems I have and that is the main reason I have the Saginav unit waiting. Maybe the valve is working as supposed or it is just "out of tune" who knows. Anyway it is scary as hell when playing around with the car. I did rebuild my pump and everything seemed to be fine except the leaking gaskets. No scores on the valve body and the pressure seemed just fine on bench test. Though I only tested it at 1500rpm
 
I have a theory in all this, but I doubt if your interested in what I think might be going on! Sooooooo, Good Luck
 
If you can be civil and just move forward on car issues then by all means explain your thoughts. There has to be a stopping point somewhere.
 
On a side note....I did find a reman pump but it says it does not fit my car...says its for 69 to 76 charger...not trusting these site application lists...will it fit my 67 newport? Both federal pumps...look identical...
 
If you can be civil and just move forward on car issues then by all means explain your thoughts. There has to be a stopping point somewhere.

My theory is if your losing power assist under heavy load but not at curse or low power. I feel there's a piece of crud caught at the inlet valve of the box that when heavy pressure is induced, it forces that crud into and restricts your flow through the box causing hard steering.
Everything else you've done doesn't seem to be working, it's time to start looking/thinking outside the box for your problem. Then again I could be wrong, but I'm just trying to help. Good Luck
 
My theory is if your losing power assist under heavy load but not at curse or low power. I feel there's a piece of crud caught at the inlet valve of the box that when heavy pressure is induced, it forces that crud into and restricts your flow through the box causing hard steering.
Everything else you've done doesn't seem to be working, it's time to start looking/thinking outside the box for your problem. Then again I could be wrong, but I'm just trying to help. Good Luck
Are you referring to the control valve on the gear box? I have removed it and replaced the seals, but haven't gotten into the box itself. I suppose its possible something worked through and is blocking it.
 
Are you referring to the control valve on the gear box? I have removed it and replaced the seals, but haven't gotten into the box itself. I suppose its possible something worked through and is blocking it.

I don't care if you replaced the seal or not, if there's crud in the fluid/system it can/will cause your problem under certain conditions. It could be anything that's in there causing it, piece of hose, a rock or pebble, dirt, coagulated PS fluid, anything, take you pick! You just have to find out what it is? And when you do, you'll probably ask yourself, how the hell did that get in there? Again, Good Luck
 
The reason I ask about the pump is because I have read about there being a pressure difference between Bodies...(a)800, (b)900 and (c)1200psi in the flow control valve....granted...I think worst case I would get less assist and more road feel if they sent me a pump from a B body with 900psi. Its better than NO steering. Assuming it is the valve and not a blockage, which I will still investigate.
 
If your steering was fine at one point before all this started, your problem has to be in the pump somewhere. It's either something you did, or time and nature did, or a piece of FOD, like I mentioned. Yes there are different pressures and your right, all it'd do is change the road feel and not the power. You got a Gremlin wreckin havoc somewhere that you need to find. Good Luck
 
well ****...Im going to order the pump anyway...worst case I have a spare for my next car. What is the easiest way to flush the gear box and make sure there is no debris in it?
I checked with the local shop today that is doing my alignment (thats a whole nother story given that the guy fixing it is 24 and was still trying to figure out how to attach his new technology sensors to an old car and how to get the fender skirts off)....they dont even have the tools to test the pressure from the pump to see if its even good. He said they dont even do that anymore. Which leaves me back in the replace til its fixed world...
 
I'm thinkin your crud is more in the pump then in the box. I say back flush first with air pressure, that way, any crud will get kicked out the way it entered and not forced through the rest of the box. I was also thinking that your pressure hose interior wall is collapsing with the higher pressures? You gotta look and think of every angle of problems here. Good luck
 
Getting the car back today from the alignment shop...I will check into the hose then and see what I can do with air. Thanks.
 
Pick their brain on your problem at the shop and see if they give you any ideas as to what's up. Good Luck
 
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