Making a Wiring Harness

m0par0rn0car

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A few weeks ago I was driving my 69 Fury 3 out of state and the wiring harness behind the dash caught on fire or shorted or something and melted the whole thing. Luckily I was able to bypass the ammeter to get it back home but ever since it’s been sitting in my yard. I went through and built a new harness for my last car (83 jeep wagoneer) and that was a royal PIA and I never wanted to do it again so for the last couple weeks I’ve been searching high and low for a NOS harness or a reman but haven’t found any I liked so here I am again, biting the bullet and making a harness.

Like most people on this forum (and car guys in general I think) I hate wiring and try to avoid it as much as possible. No matter what I try I end up doing it sooner or later anyway so I have a little knowledge about automotive wiring and some tools to make it go faster. Now since I dislike it so much I’m trying to make it as easy as possible for myself and thought I’d post my process on here for anyone interested. I know it’s maybe not the best way to do it or the “proper” way but it works for me and might help some other guys out. And yes I know I can buy a painless harness but I tried one for my 78 f-250 and hated it.

Anyways, first step for me was to convert a wiring diagram to a list of locations for the wires. For this step and the whole process an fsm is invaluable and I honestly could not do it without one. To do this part I sat down with the diagram for behind the dash and spent close to 3 hours tracing each wire from one end to the other, listing the location, color and size of the wire. At this point I made a choice that suits myself but might not be what others would want. I chose to go to with a standard 10 colors for the harness rather than each of the 25 or so oem colors (each color, light and dark versions, and ones with a tracer). I did this for a couple reasons, personally after making a harness like this I have a good understanding of it and it’s easy enough to go back later to fix things and also it’s expensive to buy enough wire of each color and being 18 with too many cars I’m trying to spend as little as possible while still doing it right.

After all the locations had been listed I went through the harness itself and separated each connector from the wires by using a pick to bend the tab that holds the spade connector in. This was a little tedious (what isn’t when it comes to wiring) but I managed to salvage all but one connector. After I had all the parts I needed I sat down and started to add wires to the bulkhead connector, that’s as far as I got tonight so I’ll keep some updates coming if anyone’s interested.
 
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These are the spade connectors I’m using for the harness, I know they’re not OEM they’re actually for classic Japanese bikes but they work very well for my purpose and they’re inexpensive (100 for $7)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9HGW7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DltcFbHB4JQR8

for anyone interested
 
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This is basically the process I go through for each and every wire. Strip, bend in the tabs on the spade with pliers or dykes (I know they make a tool for this and I actually have a couple but personally I like to do it by hand), put a little solder on the end for a little insurance, and heat wrap the whole thing. Yes, it’s a little overkill but it honestly doesn’t take that long to do and for me it’s worth the peace of mind and longevity of the harness when I’m done.
 
Thanks for sharing your experience with us the community.

At one point or another some of us will have no choice but to slay the electrical beasts in one level or another.
Please post any pics you took while you made the harness.
I have a few videos posted about my wiring adventures from a few years ago and the only one I have not slain to date is under the dash.
I admit that I have an advantage and worked in the electrical harness building field for a few years & learned a lot of what not to do.
soldering was one of the lessons really driven home on when & when not to use solder for connection strength

I are likely done already and installed back into the car but if not then take the time to clean every solder joint of remaining flux from the soldering process after you have soldered the connection with rubbing alcohol.
If it is not cleaned, it can eventually corrode the connection that you intended to beef up for insurance.
for our applications though it's not a big deal because it may take quite some time for this to occur.
 
THANKS for the pics and link to the connectors! I discovered that one of the best ways to have quality repairs, long term, is to use very good wiring connectors and then re-crimp them well. Hopefully, you were able to salvage the existing insulators from the factory harness for re-use?

Personally, I've always been impressed by the size and heft of the OEM Chrysler insulators, compared to what Ford and GM typically use. In some cases, Chrysler's wires seem to have a thicker insulation on them, too. BTAIM

Great plan and execution! I always did like the clarity of the Chrysler wiring schematics, too.

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67
 
THANKS for the pics and link to the connectors! I discovered that one of the best ways to have quality repairs, long term, is to use very good wiring connectors and then re-crimp them well. Hopefully, you were able to salvage the existing insulators from the factory harness for re-use?

Personally, I've always been impressed by the size and heft of the OEM Chrysler insulators, compared to what Ford and GM typically use. In some cases, Chrysler's wires seem to have a thicker insulation on them, too. BTAIM

Great plan and execution! I always did like the clarity of the Chrysler wiring schematics, too.

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67
Which insulators are you talking about?
 
Thanks for sharing your experience with us the community.

At one point or another some of us will have no choice but to slay the electrical beasts in one level or another.
Please post any pics you took while you made the harness.
I have a few videos posted about my wiring adventures from a few years ago and the only one I have not slain to date is under the dash.
I admit that I have an advantage and worked in the electrical harness building field for a few years & learned a lot of what not to do.
soldering was one of the lessons really driven home on when & when not to use solder for connection strength

I are likely done already and installed back into the car but if not then take the time to clean every solder joint of remaining flux from the soldering process after you have soldered the connection with rubbing alcohol.
If it is not cleaned, it can eventually corrode the connection that you intended to beef up for insurance.
for our applications though it's not a big deal because it may take quite some time for this to occur.
The harness isn’t in the car yet I’m still in the middle of making it so I’ll clean all the solder before I put it in thanks for the tip
 
You, said you're 18? There's guys twice your age that won't tackle a job like this.

Yessir I bought an 83 jeep wagoneer with graduation money then rewired the whole car, rebuilt the motor trans t case and axles and sold it then used the money to buy this plymouth and here I am again going through the whole car
 
There wasn’t much to do today since I’m waiting on wire in the mail but here’s some progress on the dash and switches
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Well it’s been a little while, it took longer than I thought it would but I’m done. all it needs is to be wrapped and organized a little then it’ll go back into the car
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How will you wrap it?

first I’ll going to throw it in the car to make sure everything works then i have some loom tape I’ll use to wrap it since it’s made of fabric and looks nice and doesn’t leave residue on the wires if I ever need to take it off in the future
 
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