SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
I need a diagram/photos of a Midland Brake Booster or if someone has one that they've taken apart that would be helpful. I want to see what's going on with how this booster was put together.
I had mine rebuilt by Booster Dewey 5 months ago and just installed it this weekend. Something was different with the length of the boosters pedal rod. With the booster installed, it appeared the rod was at least 1/4" shorter because the pedal would not reach the brake light switch. They were also suppose to adjust the boosters master cylinder (MC) push rod length for a dual master rather than the single pot.
To mock up the new hard brake lines I had to install/remove the MC from the booster a couple of times. Upon the 3rd removal it appears the push rod somehow became detached from its startionary centered position. Instead of just seeing the push rod sticking out (centered) from the booster, what I saw was the entire push rod with its attached round flat round plate flopping around inside the booster. The push rod was no longer suspended at the center of the hole, but was now resting on the hole if you can picture that.
I installed everything as it was and I do have brakes, but there's quite a bit of distance before the brakes are applied. The pedal is very spongy and I'm positive I have all the air out of the lines. Bled each wheel 5x to ensure a good steady stream of fluid with no air starting with the the right rear... once done, did another round at each wheel for 3 more bleeds each.
I've read that the difference in brake feel is quite different comparing disc to drum, but since the pedal throw ended up being shorter and the MC push rod not adjusted to a dual master plus it's now detached I'm not sure how it's all suppose to be. I called Booster Dewey, but they're on an extended vacation and won't return until Sept. 8th %$#&!!
I googed "Mildand Ross Booster Diagram", but didn't come up with anything of much help.
I had mine rebuilt by Booster Dewey 5 months ago and just installed it this weekend. Something was different with the length of the boosters pedal rod. With the booster installed, it appeared the rod was at least 1/4" shorter because the pedal would not reach the brake light switch. They were also suppose to adjust the boosters master cylinder (MC) push rod length for a dual master rather than the single pot.
To mock up the new hard brake lines I had to install/remove the MC from the booster a couple of times. Upon the 3rd removal it appears the push rod somehow became detached from its startionary centered position. Instead of just seeing the push rod sticking out (centered) from the booster, what I saw was the entire push rod with its attached round flat round plate flopping around inside the booster. The push rod was no longer suspended at the center of the hole, but was now resting on the hole if you can picture that.
I installed everything as it was and I do have brakes, but there's quite a bit of distance before the brakes are applied. The pedal is very spongy and I'm positive I have all the air out of the lines. Bled each wheel 5x to ensure a good steady stream of fluid with no air starting with the the right rear... once done, did another round at each wheel for 3 more bleeds each.
I've read that the difference in brake feel is quite different comparing disc to drum, but since the pedal throw ended up being shorter and the MC push rod not adjusted to a dual master plus it's now detached I'm not sure how it's all suppose to be. I called Booster Dewey, but they're on an extended vacation and won't return until Sept. 8th %$#&!!
I googed "Mildand Ross Booster Diagram", but didn't come up with anything of much help.
