New c body trunk floor manufacturer?

[FinFury]

Wow, anyone else seen these? Not sure but isn't Sherman "quite ok" manufacturer for sheet metal? Atleast better than those classic 2 current stuff..

Trunk Floor C-Body full 65up, 628,47 €

 

[CBODY67]

Sherman and Assoc has been selling sheet metal patch panels for vehicles since at least the middle 1970s. As such, I always perceived they were one of the better places to get things, but never had a need to buy from them. In some cases, GM had them on their "source" lists for older sheet metal and such.

CBODY67

 

[saforwardlook]

Wow, anyone else seen these? Not sure but isn't Sherman "quite ok" manufacturer for sheet metal? Atleast better than those classic 2 current stuff..

Trunk Floor C-Body full 65up, 628,47 €

I tried calling them to ask about it. I called Sherman Parts directly and asked them about availability and they told me, based on the part number in the listing you show in your post, that part does not exist. They said their part numbers start with SHE and not SHI. The on-line representative I spoke with said they have never made a C body floor pan. Since the price is apparently in Euros, not dollars, it seems to be an overseas supplier and their is tax and shipping on top of their "cost" number. So if it really is coming from Europe, it can't be cheap - this listing says available in 2 to 5 days (other countries) what ever that means???

Sherman Parts, however, says they used to go by the name Sherman Parts but changed their name a few years ago so all of this was a mystery to them. The listing also says delivery time up to 5 days (other countries). The representative for Sherman Parts also said Moparshop is not one of their names.

Given all the scams out there, I would be cautious - you cant be too careful these days................................

 

[MrMoparCHP]

These are the CTC panels, they are junk!
Thin, the overall shape isn't even close, the grooves are not even move the a scratch mark.

Better than Nothing? For the money I'd just use raw sheet metal.


Alan

 

[FinFury]

Oh crap, I already had my hopes up. Moparshop has been quite decent company, bit pricey but no problems in my previous purchases. I wonder where they have come up with the sherman brand name in the listing...

Well, I have a bead roller so i guess that I should just get up my lazy butt and buy some sheet metal

 

[FinFury]

Hmmm, it's also listed in Summit Racing, though not avail at the moment...

Sherman Parts 013CTC-168-770 Sherman Trunk Floor Panels | Summit Racing

Edit: and Summit seems to use SHI as prefix for Sherman parts also. There are tons of legit body panels shown with SHI

 

[Big_John]

From my experience, Sherman has some decent parts and they have some junk C2C type sheet metal.

I also know that Sherman is known by "Sherman and Associates" and has been that way for years.

I started googling for laughs and I found a couple things that are interesting... Sherman and C2C are about 40 miles from each other. Sherman's trademarks include (ready for this?) "Classic to Crash"

The first thing that comes up in a Google search is "Classic 2 Current".

I can't find a Sherman and Assoc. website, although I did find a Facebook site with a dead link.

Hmmmm...

 

[commando1]

@fc7_plumcrazy

 

[fc7_plumcrazy]

sherman always had reapir panels. But it was never something for restorations IMHO.
It was to fix rusted out cars somehow back in the 70s/80s
But with thin metal.
And poor cosmetics when it comes to the correct shape (looks).

Only some minor patch panels could be used like a 68-70 B-body rocker patch

Carsten

 

[Gerald Morris]

Hmmm, it's also listed in Summit Racing, though not avail at the moment...

Sherman Parts 013CTC-168-770 Sherman Trunk Floor Panels | Summit Racing

Edit: and Summit seems to use SHI as prefix for Sherman parts also. There are tons of legit body panels shown with SHI

I'd guess Summit just left the "T" off the end of that listing. Don't buy this stuff. Find a local shop if you don't have your own tools. I found a local sheetmetal shop that does whatever you want if you give them a good print and measurements to work with. Always nice to work with folks you can personally supervise.

 

[fury fan]

My experience with Sherman was from teh mid-90s, with a quarterpanel patch for a 65 Fury.
I bought 1 to evaluate, as it was not returnable.
It didn't fit the car's profile at all, you could fit a pencil between it and the fenderskirt in some spots.
And was way too thin to weld in place.

Things may have changed since then, though.

 

[Mid70's Chrysler Fanatic]

Something seems “off” about the year ranges in this description:

“TRUNK FLOOR FULL CHRYSLER 300 65-71 PLYMOUTH FURY 65-74 DODGE MONACO 65-68 DODGE POLARA 65-68 CHRYSLER NEW YORKER 65-68”

Why wouldn’t the 300 and New Yorker model years be the same range? Also, didn’t they modify the design for ’74 onward?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Something seems “off” about the year ranges in this description:

“TRUNK FLOOR FULL CHRYSLER 300 65-71 PLYMOUTH FURY 65-74 DODGE MONACO 65-68 DODGE POLARA 65-68 CHRYSLER NEW YORKER 65-68”

Why wouldn’t the 300 and New Yorker model years be the same range? Also, didn’t they modify the design for ’74 onward?

There is NOTHING correct about these panels for any year, you are better off starting with an old stop sign!

Alan

 

[Big_John]

Something seems “off” about the year ranges in this description:

“TRUNK FLOOR FULL CHRYSLER 300 65-71 PLYMOUTH FURY 65-74 DODGE MONACO 65-68 DODGE POLARA 65-68 CHRYSLER NEW YORKER 65-68”

Why wouldn’t the 300 and New Yorker model years be the same range? Also, didn’t they modify the design for ’74 onward?

That's a moot point as the panels are junk and really don't fit anything.

 

[Just Carbs]

I don't know what every person intends to do with their car. But, I have a dozen 60s and 70s cars that I will never restore. They get a proper renovation so I can use them. I like driving old cars.
So, if there is a resemblance of the old pan left, trunk or passenger, I grind it reasonably clean, coat top and bottom with rust converter, cover the holes with thin whatever, lay a new tub of fiberglass on it with a smooth resin finish and give it some paint on the inside and under coat on the bottom. It cost about a $100 and 8 hours. You can't tell by looking at it, and it ain't going nowhere in my lifetime.
Then I put the old car into service. I try to drive one of the old a carb cars an hour a day. Just because.

 

[fury fan]

If a floor repair restores integrity, seals the outside from the inside, and is durable - then the only difference is what the purists require: which is that something that is not-often seen should be made visually correct.

I vowed years ago to never do another trunk floor unless it was a truly rare/desirable car. (and even then, I might leave it for somebody more skilled than me)