gary68plyfury
Member
It's the drums now. If I put the drum on finger tight, loosen the bolts about 1/16th and pull the drum back, it turns without rubbing/grinding on backing plate.
New front wheel hub rubbing
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gary68plyfury
Member
The Carlisle show in July? Thanks but kinda long to wait but I'm thinking of make the trip to see other mopars and maybe get some parts.
I am willing to ship.
gary68plyfury
Member
Thanks. I'm going to look over what I have currently. Thanks for all your help.
Both size brakes used the same hub, just different drums. From the factory, the drum was staked to the hub using the studs.
gary68plyfury
Member
Any idea why the drum would rub against the backing plate with the 2nd hub but didn’t rub with the hub was on the car when I bought it? Both hubs had part number D70589.
I can see wear marks on the backing plate and in brake drum.
Any idea why the drum would rub against the backing plate with the 2nd hub but not with the hub that was on the car when I bought it? Both hubs had the part number of D70589, which someone on this site said is a Wagner part number. I can see wear marks on the backing plate and the drum, especially using a little paint.
Measuring it, the drum needs to come out just about 1/16th. Everything stayed the same except for the hub.
gary68plyfury
Member
Could the bearings, that came with the hub, be wrong? I had to install the bearings myself and they seem to fit fine. Not toooo easy to bang them in but they are snug.
I believe they used a different backing plate.
I don't have a good '68 Parts book to double check it, however I did look in the '69 version and that shows 2 different plates for 2 3/4" and 3" brakes.
That would account for the difference.
Someone with a good (not the downloadable abbreviated version MyMopar has) 1968 parts manual can verify that, although I'm pretty sure about it.
If the bearings came as a set (A2 outer, and A6 inner), the race is fully seated and fits snug in the hub, and the cone push fits on the spindle without slop, that shouldn't be an issue. There are some slight differences between manufactures of bearings, and just the manufacturing process of casting and machining of the hub that could account for allowing the drum to rub with one combination and not another. As Big John mentioned, the backing plates are different between the 2 3/4" wide brakes and the 3" wide brakes. The backing plates have to match the drums, which have to match the shoes, which have to match the hardware. Don't try to mix and match.
gary68plyfury
Member
How do I tell if I have 2.75 or 3in backing plates?
And I do want to think everyone for helping with this issue and generally helping everyone helping everyone else. I don't know where I'd be without some help.
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
Is the mark on the "plate" immediately behind and next to the shoe running pad surface and nowhere else on the plate? And not hitting the extreme outer edge of the plate?
Is the contact mark on the "drum" at the inner edge of the brake drum running surface next to the plate and nowhere else on the drum?
Can you show us pictures of both the drum and plate interference area?
I think you have everything you need to put the car together. But you will have to clearance the drum, not a problem. Need "good" pictures.
Don't add any shims or spacers. Big no no.
Is the contact mark on the "drum" at the inner edge of the brake drum running surface next to the plate and nowhere else on the drum?
Can you show us pictures of both the drum and plate interference area?
I think you have everything you need to put the car together. But you will have to clearance the drum, not a problem. Need "good" pictures.
Don't add any shims or spacers. Big no no.
gary68plyfury
Member
Thanks for the help. I'll look tonight and see what pics I can get and I'll double check for contact marks.
gary68plyfury
Member
The mark is the edge of plate where it turns into the drum.
It rubs on the plate where it turns into the drum.
gary68plyfury
Member
I put paint on the plate to see where it’s rubbing
Not sure if this helps but here’s a pic of the left front brake assembly off my ‘68 Sport Fury for reference.
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
Bummer. Double whammy.
Let's assume you have the correct parts, and it still don't fit. And a maximum 1/4-inch correction to obtain a minimum 1/8 clearance is needed.
The interference at the top of the shoe positioning pin is clearance by addressing the drum. Install the drum inside out on the rear axle. With minimum pressure, grind the offending inner edge bevel of the drum as needed with a 4 1/2 or 7-inch angle grinder while you have someone spin the opposite wheel at a rapid pass. This is generally about a 5 second grind.
Don't perform the grind on a stationary non-spinning wheel. Result will be an unrecoverable loss of drum balance.
The outer edge of the plate is clearance by addressing the plate. Grind the plate outer edge as needed. Usually, a repeated trial, fit and road test ordeal.
Don't attempt to reshape the plate with a BFH. Result will be no braking force and "fast" inner shoe wear.
Or, go chasing after a batch of parts until you hit on a winner, and pay for all of them.
Good luck MR. FURYGT.
As always, if you or any member of you IM team should be captured, I will disavow any knowledge of your mission.
Let's assume you have the correct parts, and it still don't fit. And a maximum 1/4-inch correction to obtain a minimum 1/8 clearance is needed.
The interference at the top of the shoe positioning pin is clearance by addressing the drum. Install the drum inside out on the rear axle. With minimum pressure, grind the offending inner edge bevel of the drum as needed with a 4 1/2 or 7-inch angle grinder while you have someone spin the opposite wheel at a rapid pass. This is generally about a 5 second grind.
Don't perform the grind on a stationary non-spinning wheel. Result will be an unrecoverable loss of drum balance.
The outer edge of the plate is clearance by addressing the plate. Grind the plate outer edge as needed. Usually, a repeated trial, fit and road test ordeal.
Don't attempt to reshape the plate with a BFH. Result will be no braking force and "fast" inner shoe wear.
Or, go chasing after a batch of parts until you hit on a winner, and pay for all of them.
Good luck MR. FURYGT.
As always, if you or any member of you IM team should be captured, I will disavow any knowledge of your mission.
gary68plyfury
Member
Thanks... Looks just like mine.
Probably the thing to do is flip it over and measure the distance from the face where it bolts to the spindle to the outside. It seems to me that would be the variable with the backing plates on wider shoes.
gary68plyfury
Member
JustCarbs,
Thanks for the help. I like the idea of spinning one wheel to grind the other, but I'm dealing with the front wheels.
Think I'm stuck with buying another 3inch drum and hoping for the best. I'll definitely check on their return policy before buying
gary68plyfury
Member
Yes... there is about 1/16th of a difference. When I was looking, a few weeks ago, I couldn't find the measurements on sellers websites, so looks like have to buy and hope for the best.
Let me see if i can describe how I measured the drum. First measure the depth of the part of the drum where the backing plate fits into, the U-shaped part and I think it is about 1/2 inch deep. Then laid down the drum, backing plate side, or inside, facing down and measured the distance from ground to the inside of the drum, the side where the lug studs go, I believe it was about 3 15/16 on the good, original drum. So basically I measure straight down. Then subtracted the two measurements.
A quick summary of what happened. Looking at drivers brakes, noticed the drum had large crack from using torque wrench with the wrong lug stud. Bought a new drum. No problems at all. But then my Dad noticed the wheel hub assembly also cracked open on the stud hole. Hub had part number D70589 which turned out to be Wagner part number. Byron from ND, a great guy, had another D70589. I bought and installed it. My big mistake, threw out the broken hub before noticing the issue when I installed the 'new' hub. I wish I had the old/broken hub just to measure it and compare to the new one. I say 'new' because Wagner doesn't make this part anymore.
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