New wiring for an old C-body

I have done a few Painless kits on various cars and I will tell you this, they are spot on. I have had customers come in with some cheaper kits and they lost that savings on the extra labor it takes to make them work.
 
thanks for sharing the harness build.
I used to do this professionally for industrial applications n plan to do this myself when the need arises.
 
Well I have found that I have access to everything to build the under hood harnesses except for the actual connectors for the bulk head and am going to work on seeing about getting those still. I will probably start building them and can adjust the build for certain situations. So if any one is interested please let me know.

Jason
 
Yeah I know about all of them and the bypass. The issue is not everyone is there enough to understand what to do if you make it with the bypass built into the harness. I will look at it and see what I can come up with to help fix the issue. I have a couple of ideas on what to do. The earlier 64 and 65 bulk head wasn't as prone to this problem but I under stand your concern.
 
It would be nice finding a factory voltmeter that would bolt up in place of the ammeter that way you would have some sort of funtional gauge.Possibly there is a car (voltmeter) that has something close to what we have in there now that can be retrofitted?
 
greasemonkeyman said:
It would be nice finding a factory voltmeter that would bolt up in place of the ammeter that way you would have some sort of funtional gauge.Possibly there is a car (voltmeter) that has something close to what we have in there now that can be retrofitted?
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If you contact Redline Gauge works they can convert your factory ammeter into a volt meter and it will look dead stock. Shannon is a really nice guy. I have talked to him a good couple of times. They do some really nice work!
 
Hey Jason,approximately how much are those Painless wiring kits for a C-Body? I've got a 67 Nyer with Power windows and A/C.I'm probably going to use an aftermarket A/C system like something from Vintage Air because I'm not too sure if my internals got damaged due to an engine fire that the previous owner had.It did manage to melt a few of the vacuum lines and upper defroster vents behind the dash,so I'm not even sure it's worth refurbishing the old unit.Any chance of the wiring setup to work with the factory A/c vacuum controls?
 
greasemonkeyman said:
Hey Jason,approximately how much are those Painless wiring kits for a C-Body? I've got a 67 Nyer with Power windows and A/C.I'm probably going to use an aftermarket A/C system like something from Vintage Air because I'm not too sure if my internals got damaged due to an engine fire that the previous owner had.It did manage to melt a few of the vacuum lines and upper defroster vents behind the dash,so I'm not even sure it's worth refurbishing the old unit.Any chance of the wiring setup to work with the factory A/c vacuum controls?
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The harness would work great with a vintage or other aftermarket system. It really simplifies the wiring. The pricing is a little different through each dealer but here is the listing on Summit. I know Kellycom ordered his through amazon and it was a bit cheaper. But if you order from amazon or ebay MAKE SURE IT IS NEW! We have had people buy them and go to put them in cars and call saying our wiring was too short only to find out that someone had already messed with the harness.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-10127

If you check around you can possibly find it a little cheaper. I can look and see what I have for diagrams for your car and see what is involved with the ac wiring in the factory stuff but honestly if you change over to an aftermarket system you will be able to find replacement parts much easier.
 
And it is possible if you want to I could possibly rebuild the factory harness. I would use yours as a template and build a new one. There would be a couple of the connectors that I might have to reuse but it shouldn't be many. Options are not as many for the C's as any of us would like.
 
Rebuilding my engine harness would be out of the question because there really wasn't anything left of it after the engine fire.The only thing that managed to survive in the engine bay was the firewall block,which is deteriorating and cracked,and the section of the harness that runs over the drivers side inner fender to the headlights and horn.
 
Thanks Dave,but I decided to go a completely different route on my build.Since I had to remove my dash and pull out the old A/C assembly,I decided that I'm just going to update everything with "New" and hopefully not have to worry about things breaking anytime in the near future. I would like to go stealth with all the wiring in the engine compartment and have it all hidden so that practically no wires are seen.I managed to scrounge thru a bunch of boxes that I had miscellaneous parts in and found a brand new E-Z universal wiring harness that I never used for a project I had a while back.Just wasn't sure where it had been placed,thought I left it in the car when I sold it. It's going to take a little modification but everything is there,new in the box.Thanks for the help! There may be a few oddball things that I might need,so I'll keep you in mind and hope you might have them.
 
greasemonkeyman said:
I managed to scrounge thru a bunch of boxes that I had miscellaneous parts in and found a brand new E-Z universal wiring harness that I never used for a project I had a while back
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I hope you don't need any help from them with the install or have problems with their harness. You wouldn't be able to get any help from them from everyone I have talked to. If you need some help let me know and I will do everything I can to help. That harness should resemble our 10102 harness that uses GM color codes. If that one is built the same way then I should be able to help you with the hook up and get it all lined out. Do your self a favor and make sure that all of the wires going into the back of the fuse block are crimped solid into the terminals. Give each of them a little tug to make sure they won't fall out when you mount it. Don't ask me why I'm saying that!
 
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