SOLD Not Mine 1970 Plymouth Sport Fury GT - $22,000 - Phoenixville, Pa.

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The 22” rad was standard issue in the 6BBL GT as well.

All I know for sure is that the 22" original radiator in conjunction with a 440 standard engine (non-a/c car of course) out here in California was not good enough to keep the car cool. A friend of mine had one and we did everything we could to make sure all was right, and no dice. In traffic the needle was very close to pegged around 100F ambient temperatures and higher. Putting a 26" radiator core support and a 26" radiator/shroud did the job though.

We considered putting a high efficiency core in the 22" but felt that was too risky too and went with an original 26" radiator.
 

The issue with the SFGT in the ad is that it is priced as a solid #2 car which it clearly is not. At $22k it should be road ready with no rust and passable paint. There is well in excess of $20k worth of rust repair, paint and interior work to get this car to the asked for price and that is before any talk of other mechanical repairs.
If that is your SFGT posted with the no pain no gain comment it looks beautiful.

Dave

I noted that @Dga26 disagrees with Davea's assessment, yet when I look at what you(Dga) bought for $20k in terms of your very nice silver GT, you received a nearly totally restored vehicle that was clearly well done to a high standard. This green car at issue in this thread is clearly a fairly worn but very original 95K miles car with a lot of restoration work still needed ahead whereas yours was just the opposite and started out from the very beginning with no rust according to the listing (except for a few spots in the trunk floor) of the person (Pete) @5wndwcpe you bought it from in this thead cited earlier and mostly all restored: SOLD - 70 Sport Fury GT EA4 - look at this thread to appreciate what was done!

When I look at the car you bought from Pete at a loss to him for some $20K, it was a steal at that price given all the work he did on your car before you bought it! All you had to do it appears was fix up the interior some and put a nice paint job on it. What "no pain, no gain" (besides hiring a good painter and an interior guy to redo the front seats) did you have to go through compared to what Pete went through to get it to the $20K price level when you bought it that this green car for sale at $22K still needs?

And your silver car also has a lot of options including a/c, woodgrain wheel, disc brakes etc while this dark green one is essentially stripped except for a console and yours is a very desirable color compared to dark green.

So I don't understand your disagree comment at all or maybe you don't appreciate what you bought compared to what is still needed on this green one for sale plus a $22K starting price!

In my view, @Davea Lux has it right. I am not a "CB" (cheap bastard) and I would have offered Pete more than he was asking to make sure he didn't lose $$ when selling the car at the price he sold it for..................Pete did some excellent work from what I am seeing.
 
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22" radiator was standard on cars without A/C. This SFGT is low optioned, manual drum brakes, no A/C. Rotted rear window channel and lower quarters, missing under dash trim panel. Trunk floor is also likely very rusty. Appears to also have rust on the roof seams and the lower part of the front fenders. There is no way this car is accurately priced at $22k.

Dave

Thank you Dave
this is another overpriced car that does need to be picked apart [for once] due to the high price tag.

BTW a 22 inch rad will keep many a car very cool, i know some one that built a road course mopar car that runs a 22 inch rad...never runs over 210 and 210 is not hot.
 
Thank you Dave
this is another overpriced car that does need to be picked apart [for once] due to the high price tag.

BTW a 22 inch rad will keep many a car very cool, i know some one that built a road course mopar car that runs a 22 inch rad...never runs over 210 and 210 is not hot.

I have several cars with the 22" radiator. Both radiators are freshly redone.
In a 383 Super bee it became too hot when idling in 95F heat in a traffic jam after about 45 minutes of just idling

Carsten
 
I have several cars with the 22" radiator. Both radiators are freshly redone.
In a 383 Super bee it became too hot when idling in 95F heat in a traffic jam after about 45 minutes of just idling

Carsten


Did you by chance have them done with the larger cooling tubes?

How many rows? 3?

Thinking of doing this for my 22” radiator behind 440 HP,currently 727, but possibly going manual.
 
Did you by chance have them done with the larger cooling tubes?

How many rows? 3?

Thinking of doing this for my 22” radiator behind 440 HP,currently 727, but possibly going manual.

all back to stock just like it was.

My SFGT has a 22" infront of a 440, too. Yet I had no problems but I haven't challenged it as bad as the Bee with the outside heat
 
all back to stock just like it was.

My SFGT has a 22" infront of a 440, too. Yet I had no problems but I haven't challenged it as bad as the Bee with the outside heat

yeah I haven’t previously either but that was long ago and not in stop in go with modern gas, i don’t know if that would have any effect or not (gas) but but want to get best bang for buck since I have to refurb anyway.
 
Thank you Dave
this is another overpriced car that does need to be picked apart [for once] due to the high price tag.

BTW a 22 inch rad will keep many a car very cool, i know some one that built a road course mopar car that runs a 22 inch rad...never runs over 210 and 210 is not hot.
Most likely the smaller radiator was used for the drag race guys for reduced weight.
 
Most 440 cars had 22 unless, A/C, towing, axle pg, or another reason for extra cooling from factory.
Back in the day, Mopar kept the front drum brake (as a option?) still available while all other car manufactures had only front disc brakes as standard equipment.
I read that the drag racers liked the drums for; reduced weight, can get manual no power booster, again weight, no power robbing power steering, A/C? that's a given, I think you could still get heater delete in a Mopar bottom line car just past 1970 or so. What else, no undercoating, I wonder if any of the numbers guys here know what the option cut off dates are for such stuff.

.
 
Back in the day, Mopar kept the front drum brake (as a option?) still available while all other car manufactures had only front disc brakes as standard equipment.
I read that the drag racers liked the drums for; reduced weight, can get manual no power booster, again weight, no power robbing power steering, A/C? that's a given, I think you could still get heater delete in a Mopar bottom line car just past 1970 or so. What else, no undercoating, I wonder if any of the numbers guys here know what the option cut off dates are for such stuff.

.


I took you to mean drag racers changed the rads to reduce weight on cars with larger ones.

Maybe bean counters were just saving beans ? Anyway if rad was good I didn’t have problems with overheating with 22s but I wasn’t in modern LA.
 
Didn't they have Hemi's behind 22" radiators in the 60's? Way back in Mopar Muscle they feature a '67 GTX or Coronet R/T with a Hemi, and mentioned how it stayed right in the middle of the gauge in traffic and didn't overheat. They have 22" radiators for 440's from the factory, don't know what got you a 26" radiator. I have one in my 383/2 Polara that came with A/C, and the '68 383/4 Monaco 500. My 383/4 '66 Monaco 500 with A/C has a 22" radiator.
 
I noted that @Dga26 disagrees with Davea's assessment, yet when I look at what you(Dga) bought for $20k in terms of your very nice silver GT, you received a nearly totally restored vehicle that was clearly well done to a high standard. This green car at issue in this thread is clearly a fairly worn but very original 95K miles car with a lot of restoration work still needed ahead whereas yours was just the opposite and started out from the very beginning with no rust according to the listing (except for a few spots in the trunk floor) of the person (Pete) @5wndwcpe you bought it from in this thead cited earlier and mostly all restored: SOLD - 70 Sport Fury GT EA4 - look at this thread to appreciate what was done!

When I look at the car you bought from Pete at a loss to him for some $20K, it was a steal at that price given all the work he did on your car before you bought it! All you had to do it appears was fix up the interior some and put a nice paint job on it. What "no pain, no gain" (besides hiring a good painter and an interior guy to redo the front seats) did you have to go through compared to what Pete went through to get it to the $20K price level when you bought it that this green car for sale at $22K still needs?

And your silver car also has a lot of options including a/c, woodgrain wheel, disc brakes etc while this dark green one is essentially stripped except for a console and yours is a very desirable color compared to dark green.

So I don't understand your disagree comment at all or maybe you don't appreciate what you bought compared to what is still needed on this green one for sale plus a $22K starting price!

In my view, @Davea Lux has it right. I am not a "CB" (cheap bastard) and I would have offered Pete more than he was asking to make sure he didn't lose $$ when selling the car at the price he sold it for..................Pete did some excellent work from what I am seeing.
I noted the@Dga26 disagrees with Davea's assessment, yet when I look at what you(Dga) bought for $20k in terms of your very nice silver GT, you received a nearly totally restored vehicle that was clearly well done to a high standard. This green car at issue in this thread is clearly a fairly worn but very original 95K miles car with a lot of restoration work still needed ahead whereas yours was just the opposite and started out from the very beginning with no rust according to the listing (except for a few spots in the trunk floor) of the person (Pete) @5wndwcpe you bought it from in this thead cited earlier and mostly all restored: SOLD - 70 Sport Fury GT EA4 - look at this thread to appreciate what was done!

When I look at the car you bought from Pete at a loss to him for some $20K, it was a steal at that price given all the work he did on your car before you bought it! All you had to do it appears was fix up the interior some and put a nice paint job on it. What "no pain, no gain" (besides hiring a good painter and an interior guy to redo the front seats) did you have to go through compared to what Pete went through to get it to the $20K price level when you bought it that this green car for sale at $22K still needs?

And your silver car also has a lot of options including a/c, woodgrain wheel, disc brakes etc while this dark green one is essentially stripped except for a console and yours is a very desirable color compared to dark green.

So I don't understand your disagree comment at all or maybe you don't appreciate what you bought compared to what is still needed on this green one for sale plus a $22K starting price!

In my view, @Davea Lux has it right. I am not a "CB" (cheap bastard) and I would have offered Pete more than he was asking to make sure he didn't lose $$ when selling the car at the price he sold it for..................Pete did some excellent work from what I am seeing.

all I’m saying is these GT’s are hard to find, and since you think I don’t appreciate my GT why didn’t you buy it from Pete? That car sat on here for 1 month? Just because I dropped it off at a shop and paid to have it painted doesn’t mean that I didn’t
1. Source material for the front buckets.
2. Find a shop to upholster them.
3. Find over a dozen parts to replace worn parts.
4. Quoted one price then overpaying when it’s underquoted.
5. Dash pad, seat backs, etc.
6. Small details.
7. Spending a **** load of money, which I’m ok with because I love my GT and it was well worth it!

My no pain no gain comment was for everybody that’s restoring a car period. Whether you do it with your own hands or farm it out. It’s still a lot of money, and time, and stress. I love mopars, all of them. My comment and pictures were meant to inspire the guys that are in the middle of a resto, to give them fuel, to see what the finished product could look like. I’m so glad I checked the for sale page 1 year and 2 months ago, Pete did a great job on my GT. Just for the record, what he was asking is what I pretty much paid. I knew it was worth it! Too bad nobody else thought so, or it would’ve been gone the first day!

My 2 cents
 
Did you by chance have them done with the larger cooling tubes?

How many rows? 3?

Thinking of doing this for my 22” radiator behind 440 HP,currently 727, but possibly going manual.


To stick my nose in , I had my original 22" re-cored last spring. The local guy has 50 plus years in this location. The core tunes are a hair larger by a 16th. He had said the original tube size isn't available anymore.
My car runs hotter now than before the recore.
 
To stick my nose in , I had my original 22" re-cored last spring. The local guy has 50 plus years in this location. The core tunes are a hair larger by a 16th. He had said the original tube size isn't available anymore.
My car runs hotter now than before the recore.


I ain’t no expert by any means but I’ve been looking and saw Glen ray offered a larger size for extra cooling plus original size. Don’t recall what size his larger tubes are.
 
I ain’t no expert by any means but I’ve been looking and saw Glen ray offered a larger size for extra cooling plus original size. Don’t recall what size his larger tubes are.
My guy may not be aware of any performance stuff. I do trust him . This is the 3rd radiator he's done for me..
 
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