Nox speed control unit Necessary for a 1972 Polara

72polarbear

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Was planning on putting the new 727 trans today still am but I was gonna just swap in the “nox control unit”(?) but the threads are all beat up from transport or something but do I really need it. Reading around I see that some people don’t put it on?

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Snap on sells a thread file that will fix those threads like new.
 
I had never heard of this so I had to look... It's part of the California emissions package.

I have no idea if you can eliminate it or not. Sorry.... I can give you some guidance on repairing the threads though.

Something everyone that has old cars is a set of rethreading files. Pretty simple to use, you just use the correct side and file the threads.

Here's a set of 3 that aren't very expensive. https://www.amazon.com/SZSYD-3Pcs-T...-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Another option is to buy a rethreading die. I think this is the size, but I'm not 100% sure. You'll need to check that. https://www.amazon.com/Rethreading-...s=hi&sprefix=7/8-24+die,tools,232&sr=1-1&th=1

The die will be a one time use, but the files will come in handy in years to come.
 
Starting in the 1069 model year or a yar or so later, it was popular . . . as an emissions decreaser orientation . . . to delay any sort of spark advance related to the normal vac advance until after the car reached about 25mph or so, or was in high gear (for manual transmission vehicles). In other words, a "spark retard device".

There are two things. 1) it was a part of the factory emissions control device package and should not be "tampered with" according to federal emissions law from back then.
2) As the car can now be titled as an "Antique" in most states, no emissions checks of any kind.

Was it effective to reduce NOx emissions? Apparently it was when new, but probably something only related to "the numbers"

In reducing emissions, the HC and CO are easy, just make the engine more efficient. Which also can increase the "heat of compression", which increases NOx emissions. To decrease NOx, decrease the "heat of compression", so "retard the spark advance" is the easiest way to do that (with an existing engine). Hence, selected spark retard of the NOx speed sensor.

Your call as to if it can be deleted as the car is older and not in CA any more. At this stage of the game, I rather doubt somebody would even look for each iten of any car's emission system for emissions compliance. Things like the snorkel "hot air" air cleaner and ducting to the exh manifold heat stove are much more apparent.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
It screws into the speedometer cable, somewhere. Speedo cables on each side, just like the cruise control transducer/servo.
 
Was planning on putting the new 727 trans today still am but I was gonna just swap in the “nox control unit”(?) but the threads are all beat up from transport or something but do I really need it. Reading around I see that some people don’t put it on?

View attachment 741199

If the pictured speed switch for the NOx (oxides of nitrogen) control system is removed, or left disconnected, the switch signal to the control unit/thermal switch assembly will not appear. This effectively disables the NOx control because the vacuum signal from the ported advance port on the carburetor to the vacuum advance unit of the distributor will not be interrupted and the engine will run with normal vacuum advance.

The speed switch closes at speeds below 30 MPH as a signal to the NOx control unit/thermal switch assembly.



Further information about the NOx control system:

This NOx control system operates based on two conditions: 1) ambient temperature at the thermal sensor is above 70 degrees Fahrenheit, 2) vehicle speed is below 30 MPH. When these conditions are met, the vacuum signal to the distributor is cut off. This lowers peak combustion temperatures, subsequently lowering oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust, coupled with other parts of the Cleaner Air System (CAS) components such as exhaust gas recirculation and valve timing.

This NOx control system was introduced in 1971 on California models and continued in 1972. The system was replaced nationwide by the Orifice Spark Advance Control (OSAC) system and other CAS components in 1973.

The following image shows the layout and components of the NOx control system:
NOX_control.jpg


The following image shows the electrical connection diagram of the NOx control system:
Screenshot 2025-11-02 8.44.03 PM.png
 
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Your car is old enough not to needing smog checks, I’d toss it in the parts box and eliminate it. Now what plugs into it may complain. I’d probably be bypassing a lot of other stuff.


Alan
 
I thought ported vacuum from the carb to the distributor normally doesn't kick in until part throttle, so no vacuum (no advance) at idle.
 
Yes, ported vacuum only starts as the throttle moves off of idle, usually requiring over 8" Hg to start the vac advance. BUT in the IM240 driving cycle, with specified rates of acceleration to specific speeds allegedly mimicking city traffic in Los Angeles, CA, no gradual accelerations, per se. Which means more throttle opening and more "direct" vac to the vac advance unit via ported vac.

Chrysler, being more-engineering oriented, designed a complete system to work in all temperatures and with all transmissions, it seems. GM/Chevy used simiple switches on the manual transmission vehicles with related vacuum choppers. Ford used a multitude of vac delay valves in their vacuum advance hoses, it seemed. As if they still owned the rubber plantations in South America.

CBODY67
 
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