Nuetral safety switch and back up lamp switch help

Arbiter

New Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2011
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
I have a 1966 Plymouth Fury III, and I am pretty sure the neutral safety switch and the back up lamp switch do not work. Is it a single switch with both combined or is it separated? and also where are they/it located?
 
One 3 terminal switch located on the tranny.

20z487d.jpg
 
And would the Neutral Safety switch keep me from being able to turn thre car over from the ignition switch? (I can hook a remote starter switch to the starter and it will turn over and start if the key is in on but it will not turn over at the turn of the key.)
 
Nevermind I tested the neutral safety switch, it works so I think its the ignition switch.
 
Nevermind I tested the neutral safety switch, it works so I think its the ignition switch.

How did you test it? The center lead is the ground for the starter relay. It should only ground in N & P. The two outer leads are the back-up light leads that complete the circuit in R only. To test the neutral switch you need to have your test light attached to a hot lead such as the + on the battery, and touch the center lead in P & N you will get a light. Any other gear it's bad, or no light in P & N it's bad.

So, if the N s/w tests good it's probably your starter relay. That said, you could have a corrosion problem at the firewall plug also, but I would go after the more common issue.
 
I just crawled under my car and checked and my car has a single post switch.

Not trying to thread jack but is there a cutoff to certain years that used a 3 pin and a single?
 
How did you test it? The center lead is the ground for the starter relay. It should only ground in N & P. The two outer leads are the back-up light leads that complete the circuit in R only. To test the neutral switch you need to have your test light attached to a hot lead such as the + on the battery, and touch the center lead in P & N you will get a light. Any other gear it's bad, or no light in P & N it's bad.

So, if the N s/w tests good it's probably your starter relay. That said, you could have a corrosion problem at the firewall plug also, but I would go after the more common issue.

It had one pin so I just connected it to a test light, and put the other side on a hot lead from the battery and it lit up when I shifted into nuetral and park.
 
I hate to throw in a monkey wrench here, but I have a 66 Fury III and the switch that controls whether the reverse lights work and is mounted on top of the steering colum and is adjustable.

Isn't this also a neutral safety switch?
 
I hate to throw in a monkey wrench here, but I have a 66 Fury III and the switch that controls whether the reverse lights work and is mounted on top of the steering colum and is adjustable.

Isn't this also a neutral safety switch?

No. The NSS is always on the tranny. That's why you have a 1 pin NSS.
 
"Good", the neutral switch is working correctly. The wire from your NS is probably brown it should be plugged into your starter relay. If it is, pull the brown wire off and ground that tab from the relay to any ground. Now with caution making sure your car is in park because it will start in any gear now. Try starting the car, if it wont start it's probably your relay. If it does start check the brown wire for corrosion or broken connections repair or replace as necessary. Finale test of your relay if it still wont start, with a test light, test the lead that is screwed on to see if it lights up when the ignition is in the crank position. light on no crank bad starter relay. No light on at relay with ignition switch in crank position, check connections at the ignition switch. now is when your going to have to get a wiring diagram for your car to know what color wire to test. also if the ignition switch tests good check the connections for corrosion or burning at the bulkhead connector on your firewall.

Also with a one pin NS your reverse lights are activated separately by a switch in your shifter mechanism.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top