Oil pump failure?

Okay, I will look into priming the pump first.
About that tool, could I just make one myself? Shipping costs from the US are generally pretty steep so rather avoid them. Also, how difficult would it be to remove the drive gear with the engine in the car?

The drive gear should pull right out. Just make sure to note the position of the slot so that you can put it back in the same place so that your distributor shaft will go back where it belongs.

Jeff
 
The drive gear should pull right out. Just make sure to note the position of the slot so that you can put it back in the same place so that your distributor shaft will go back where it belongs.

Jeff
This is one good reason to get the service manual. It shows you how to install the drive gear with the engine at Top Dead Center.
 
You could have gotten foreign matter stuck in the relief valve, with the pan off and performing repairs, there might have been old plastic timing gear bits floating around. It just takes a speck the size of a large sand grain to hold the relief open, therefore killing the pressure. This happened to me.
Did you inspect and clean the pickup screen?

I did inspect the screen and sprayed it with some brake cleaner. Since the timing gear was still intact I wasn't very thorough so I'll check the valve if priming won't work

This is one good reason to get the service manual. It shows you how to install the drive gear with the engine at Top Dead Center.

I have the FSM but it doesn't mention the drive gear install. I'm guessing TDC so the slot in the drive gear is parallel to the cam? Sounds like the tricky thing is gonna be to make the hex in the oil pump line up with the drive gear
 
I did inspect the screen and sprayed it with some brake cleaner. Since the timing gear was still intact I wasn't very thorough so I'll check the valve if priming won't work



I have the FSM but it doesn't mention the drive gear install. I'm guessing TDC so the slot in the drive gear is parallel to the cam? Sounds like the tricky thing is gonna be to make the hex in the oil pump line up with the drive gear
Yes, on a "B" or "RB" engine the slot sits parallel with the camshaft. The spiral of the gear helps the shaft index the oil pump when you reinstall it.
 
Okay it wasn't easy but this morning I got the drive gear out. That thing was wedged in there pretty good, probably hasn't been touched in a long time. I'll give it a clean and soak it in fresh oil before putting it back.

About the prime tool, is this one correct:
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-P4286800-Priming-Shaft/dp/B000CIZZGY

With amazon priority shipping it's still under 30 dollars and I would have it here next tuesday, would save me some hassle since stores here are pretty much closed due to lockown...
 
Okay it wasn't easy but this morning I got the drive gear out. That thing was wedged in there pretty good, probably hasn't been touched in a long time. I'll give it a clean and soak it in fresh oil before putting it back.

About the prime tool, is this one correct:
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-P4286800-Priming-Shaft/dp/B000CIZZGY

With amazon priority shipping it's still under 30 dollars and I would have it here next tuesday, would save me some hassle since stores here are pretty much closed due to lockown...
That's the one. When you start priming, the drill will spin real easy. once it primes, it will drag down your drill. This is normal. Once you get to this point, put everything back, and start her up.
 
That's the one. When you start priming, the drill will spin real easy. once it primes, it will drag down your drill. This is normal. Once you get to this point, put everything back, and start her up.

Make sure your drill is on the UNscrew/ CCW mode otherwise it won't pressurize. Good Luck
 
Amazon has not been my friend
They have managed to ship me a JBL GO3 bluetooth speaker... How those two got mixed up I do no know

Hopefully they get it right with the replacement
 
The waiting is killing me, according to DHL the "shipment is temporarily on hold" in Cincinatti, didn't think it would be this hard to get a prime tool shipped to me...

Although this has given me the opportunity to work on my dads old Honda moped which is now back on the road after around 10 years. Rebuilt the tiny carb for this 50cc single cylinder beast and now runs like a dream. Quite a difference from the thermoquad.
 
Damn I should buy a welder.

Okay, so DHL failed to ship the thing AGAIN so I had to order it for a third time and that finally arrived this weekend (thank you pitney bowes) but seems a lot of effort for basically a large metal stick. Today I found the time to get it done. Measured the drive shaft along the tool so I could tape up the part where it would contact the brass bushing so that wouldn't get damaged. Removed the oil filter so to visually check oil flow through the pump. Spun the drill counterclockwise for a while and eventally oil came pouring out the pump. Put the filter back on and spun the drill again for a while to fill the filter and get some oil up top. Then removed the prime tool (same orientation as it was before drilling) put the half shaft back, then the distributor and was ready to fire up. Which it did, in an instant. And the oil warning light turned off!

I then let the engine warm up for a bit to check for any remaining oil leaks since that's what started all this. But everything looks pretty dry, oil sender, valve covers, oil pan, rear main, timing cover, front seal, the works, and also no coolant leaks. Feels good. Next thing on the list is timing and carb adjustments but decided to call it a day and grab a cold one.

Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated!

Don't have a timing light unfortunately so was planning on using engine vacuum for adjustments.


I feel it runs pretty good, what do you guys think?
 
Good deal, yes it sounds good! If it pings retard timing, if doesn’t advance it till it does, then turn it back. Advance is turn distributor clockwise CW, Retard is turning distributor CCW.

If you have a priming tool you don’t need to go all cave man and remove the filter. When it gets pressure you will know it. Drill will slow down some or a lot depending on the drill.
 
If you have a priming tool you don’t need to go all cave man and remove the filter. When it gets pressure you will know it. Drill will slow down some or a lot depending on the drill.

No I know, but this being the first engine I've ever worked on like this I wanted to make extra sure everything was okay. What began as a simple oil leak fix turned into a tear down of most of the engine. It was both exciting and a bit scary at but it all had to be done. Just look at the front seal that came off of it:

upload_2021-3-22_18-6-19.png


:wtf:
 
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