Just wondering if anyone here has used plastic dip spray on any painted surfaces of their car? In my case, I want to blacken the inner areas (5 on each wheel) of my silver powder coated rally wheels. I’m dreading sanding all those little areas. I’ve heard: If you clean it real well, tape it off and spray plastic dip on, it’ll stay on there for as long as you want it…Until you want to peel it off. Is this true?
Plastic Dip Spray
- Thread starter furyfever
- Start date
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I have never done it myself, but I have heard the same thing.
I too have heard the same.
I also have had personal success doing what you want to do using SEM Vinyl dye - Landau Black - spray. Make sure the surface is clean. It'll stick well, but come off easily when needed. Nice semi-gloss-satin finish too.
I also have had personal success doing what you want to do using SEM Vinyl dye - Landau Black - spray. Make sure the surface is clean. It'll stick well, but come off easily when needed. Nice semi-gloss-satin finish too.
mgm1986
Active Member
Plasti-dip is awesome. If you do it, make sure not to go to thick with your coats, lots of light coats is better than a couple heavy coats. Also, the thicker the final product, the easier it will be to remove because it will have a better chance of staying together as you peel it off (lots of light coats to get a thick "final product").
The nice thing about plasti-dip is, if you do one wheel and decide you don't like it, it comes off nicely. The longer you leave it on the more difficult it is to remove but it still easier than removing paint.
Again, if you go to thin (not enough coats) it is harder to remove. Thicker is better for plasti-dip for durability and ease of removal.
The nice thing about plasti-dip is, if you do one wheel and decide you don't like it, it comes off nicely. The longer you leave it on the more difficult it is to remove but it still easier than removing paint.
Again, if you go to thin (not enough coats) it is harder to remove. Thicker is better for plasti-dip for durability and ease of removal.
Is it true you only have to wipe off dirt with some type of alcohol based cleaner and sanding is NOT necessary? How about at tape line? When removing tape is it necessary to cut with razor blade? That’d be tough not to cut into powder coat and create a rust line.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
No sanding or it will not peel off nicely later.
mgm1986
Active Member
Yep, what 300rag said is very true. Smoother is better for removal later and it will adhere fine to a smooth surface if you keep the coats thin.
The longer you can get your tape strips the easier they will be to remove. If you remove while the last coat is still wet it should come off without peeling the plasti-dip along with it. You may have to play with it a little to get the feel for it but that's one of the great things about plasti-dip, once it dries it's easy to remove so if you mess up or want to try to do it better it's not like dealing with paint.
Ive never done wheels with it but I would based on my other experiences. I used it for the back of carpets to make them nonslip, the frost color for windows. As far painting goes, I did my old magnums and used playing cards for the center circumference and then after sanding the insets a little, painted everything, no masking. Then came back with a block of wood covered with a thin t-shirt scrap dips in lacquer thinner and wiped off the paint in the chrome faces. Comes off easy as long as you haven't sanded the faces. anything than you cant get to can be scraped off easy with the back of an exacto.
Used this paint. Its my goto for a thin (like flat almost) durable paint that seems to last longer than most. I dont see how its epoxy though.
VHT Epoxy Satin black
Used this paint. Its my goto for a thin (like flat almost) durable paint that seems to last longer than most. I dont see how its epoxy though.
VHT Epoxy Satin black
Similar threads
