Please help with rim size 71 Sport Fury GT

Plimiff

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Hello,

Planning to buy an additional set of steel wheels for the Fury (it is waiting for the overseas shipping so I would like to send as much larger parts with it as possible). So I am not able to take measurements hence the question - does anybody know what is the max rim width that should fit? Was thinking 8" rims with -20mm offset and 3 3/4'' backspacing. Rear tires 275/60 R15, Front 245/60 R15? Too much?
I drool over the look of these...
https://i0.wp.com/hooniverse.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/32.jpg

Thanks a lot for any input!

32.jpg
 
Tread width: 6.63
Inflated section width: 8.40"
Outer diameter: 26.73"
Rolling circumference: 83.98"
Load capacity: 1400 @ 32 psi
Recommended rim width: 7.0"

This is what I got from Google for the original Polyglas tires so the 245/60 - 26.6" should not be far off? Any quess what size could the pictured tires be?
 
Tread width: 6.63
Inflated section width: 8.40"
Outer diameter: 26.73"
Rolling circumference: 83.98"
Load capacity: 1400 @ 32 psi
Recommended rim width: 7.0"

This is what I got from Google for the original Polyglas tires so the 245/60 - 26.6" should not be far off? Any quess what size could the pictured tires be?

Why not a set of the original road wheels? They will be the correct size and width. They are also strong enough to run with modern radial tires.

Dave
 
I do have the originals and I will run those with the correct tires. I just would want an additional set that looks like the pictured one - don't they look super?
...I really think they do but I'm having a hard time figuring the size of them... so help if possible!
 
I do have the originals and I will run those with the correct tires. I just would want an additional set that looks like the pictured one - don't they look super?
...I really think they do but I'm having a hard time figuring the size of them... so help if possible!


Those look like 70-71 police cruiser wheels. Most likely they are 15" x 7". To verify, dismount one tire and measure the wheel.

Dave
 
The rim size is stamped by the valve stem. Take a look there.
 
Radials were optionalon '70 C-body cars and wagons. W23 road wheels are 15x6. Seems like the factory police wheels and the 1975-era Charger SE Rallye Wheels were 15x6.5. Not sure of backspacing on either one. E-bodies had 15x7s.

The H78x15 replaced the prior 8.55x15 size. In rolling diameter (relates to revs/mile), the P225/75x15 is between H78x15 ad J78x15 in rolling diameter, just a bit taller than the H78x15s. L78x15s were on the wagons, best I recall (P235x75x15).

In the picture, those rear sidewalls look a little too close to the wheel opening, to me. Remember that what might look to fit "static" or sitting still, even bounding a little, CAN rub the body when the car leans in a corner and the spring bushings flex laterally. Better to have some additional clearance in the rear wheel opening and between the inside of the wheel and the rear leaf springs . . . Why limit the cornering capabilities of a Chrysler product due to poor tire/wheel sizing?

To me, FORGET the 8" wide wheels! There's a reason that Chrysler only did 6.5" wide wheels on pre-'74 C-body cars. 7" Magnum GT or similar cop car wheels are a much better option. 70 series might also be better options, too, rather than 60s.

You might also consider the ready availability of tires where you're gong to be with the car. Sure, TireRack can probably ship internationally, but if you have a ruined tire and a size of tire not readily available where you are, look for a rental car. It might not be what you really desire, but go "generic" rather than otherwise. You'll probably not degrade the potential handling that much, either, I suspect. I don't believe the Euros use the USA P-metric sizing?

On international shipments of vehicles, best to have the least possible extra stuff in them, as thefts have been known to happen. Document anything that isn't nailed down, so to speak. Ship the tires separately and the wheels separately, insured. When my uncle came back from a deployment to Germany (1974 or thereabouts) his '67 Caprice had factory wire wheel covers on it. When it got back stateside, on the dock, they presented it back to him with '67 Catalina wheel covers on it. Although it was driven into a container and the container was what was shipped. Just be aware that such things can happen, not that they will.

Sorry that my orientations might not be what you might desire to hear, but that's the reality as I see it.

Good luck on your trip!
CBODY67
 
Yes, euro-metric here but they should not be that much different? We have the same tires here but the price of them has somehow exactly doubled when they arrive to our shops, even more for the Goodrich ones...
Thanks a lot for you input - already searching for some police wheels but theft is certainly something I didn't factor at all. I'm desparately trying to save on shipping fees and didn't think of this possibilty for 1 second. Dumb. Thanks!
 
If going with 8" rims with 275/60 R15 tyres at the arse end, then best to go with 4.5" backspacing. Don't forget a wider rear axle was used in the '70 Fury vs. the '65 - '69 models before it.

I had a set of Road Wheels widened from stock 6" to 8", and 1978+ Mopar cop car wheels (6 Slotters) widened from 7" to 8", all with 4.5" backspacing. Safest way to go to avoid clearance issues.
 
The P-Metric sizing was an "invention" of the USA "market" to produce tires that were more "friendly" at higher inflation pressures for increased fuel economy. Euro metrics, prior to that, used just the metric section width and aspect ratio and rim sizing in their size designation.

Just convert the metric section width to inches and then go from there. As a general rule, with respect to "revs/mile" (relates to the tire's OD and rolling radius), within the same weight capacity tire (which is what the alpha-numeric system was about, for better consumer understanding), a G78-15 basically replaced the prior 8.15x15 size, but it took a H70-15 to get back to that same OD with the shorter-sidewall tire (lower aspect ratio). Then a J60-15 (a theoretical size I don't think was ever produced), likewise. These alpha-numeric sizes also had government size specs to meet, within a 7% range, again for consumer benefits. The first time tire size specs were somewhat standardized. Of course, with the lower aspect ratios, tread width became wider (which was happening anyway, due to market demands, especially "performance" tires).

The P-metrics were something of a mess, initially, as the main conversion orientation was "weight carrying capacity". When that evolved into "revs/mile", things became a little more understandable AND the issue of "too-small, cosmetically" tires seemed to disappear.

I understand the issue of cost and shipping, but is it better to pay more for a separate and trackable shipment than to pay for something not received? Your determination.

CBODY67
 
Just convert the metric section width to inches and then go from there. As a general rule, with respect to "revs/mile" (relates to the tire's OD and rolling radius), within the same weight capacity tire (which is what the alpha-numeric system was about, for better consumer understanding), a G78-15 basically replaced the prior 8.15x15 size, but it took a H70-15 to get back to that same OD with the shorter-sidewall tire (lower aspect ratio). Then a J60-15 (a theoretical size I don't think was ever produced), likewise. These alpha-numeric sizes also had government size specs to meet, within a 7% range, again for consumer benefits. The first time tire size specs were somewhat standardized. Of course, with the lower aspect ratios, tread width became wider (which was happening anyway, due to market demands, especially "performance" tires).

The P-metrics were something of a mess, initially, as the main conversion orientation was "weight carrying capacity". When that evolved into "revs/mile", things became a little more understandable AND the issue of "too-small, cosmetically" tires seemed to disappear.

CBODY67

Interesting stuff and thanks for sharing the knowledge!
 
Interesting stuff and thanks for sharing the knowledge!

The other thing to consider is that if you already have 4 good wheels and a good spare for the car, you might be better served just buying extra tires here and shipping them with car in case you need them. Wheels rarely go bad unless you have a habit of hitting curbs or are planning to drive the car in the outback.

Dave
 
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