Poly 318 wide block with a 2bbl and single point distrib troubles

cantflip

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No offense taken CantFlip, if we can help this member out then it's all worth it.

There are so many things that can cause what happening here and using the KISS method is the best approach but if one thing is over looked a lot of time and money can be wasted
I was impressed you took the time with so much going on... how was the road trip?
 

mr. fix it

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I was impressed you took the time with so much going on... how was the road trip?
Great road trip.
I was at my daughter's when I responded to this thread, everyone was sleeping so I had some free time on my hands LOL!

I was using my Galaxy Tab 4 which was a bit flaky but got he job done even with the on screen keyboard freezing up every few moments..
 

Virgil J.

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I did put together everything I need to do an electronic ignition swap - was going to use an accel super coill, GM HEI unit with an aluminum plate to mount it to, and a later mopar distributor, but realized this distributor had no provisions for a vacuum advance. But I'll get to that later. Still have yet to tend to the car, as I have been doing household plumbing due to frozen pipes here ...:eek:
 

traintech55

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Virgil, get the car running first, then change to electronic ignition. Also as someone who worked for Chrysler and G.M use the factory electronic system, less wiring to modify, less chance of breaking down. Those G.M. units were not that dependable when the parts were made in the U.S., now that they are made in China, forget about it.
 

cantflip

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I did put together everything I need to do an electronic ignition swap - was going to use an accel super coill, GM HEI unit with an aluminum plate to mount it to, and a later mopar distributor, but realized this distributor had no provisions for a vacuum advance. But I'll get to that later. Still have yet to tend to the car, as I have been doing household plumbing due to frozen pipes here ...:eek:

Sorry about the plumbing issues...

Virgil, get the car running first, then change to electronic ignition. Also as someone who worked for Chrysler and G.M use the factory electronic system, less wiring to modify, less chance of breaking down. Those G.M. units were not that dependable when the parts were made in the U.S., now that they are made in China, forget about it.

X2 on this... First it needs to run... then you need to stay somewhere close to factory or you will spend all of your time and efforts trying to make something work right that never was going to work right out of the box anyhow... at least with factory type parts you can simply drop back a few years in the FSM and get specs and wiring schematics. The GM HEI will likely be too hot a spark for your otherwise stock engine... this is all going towards heavily modified engine territory.
 

Virgil J.

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Any reccomendations on a new 2bbl carb? I was thinking maybe Edelbrock or Holley would be a good choice, as I don't want to deal with the strombergs anymore.
 

traintech55

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Why don't you try a Carter BBD 2 bbl. they were used on the "LA" 318'S. Something from a early to mid 70's. Cross reference the base gaskets to see if they fit your manifold.
 

rags

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agree with above, bbd 2.25. they're cheap, readily available, easy to service, and easily adaptable if need be. carb for any late sixties application with a 318. we'll be waiting.
 

Virgil J.

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I think I will go with that suggestion. I didn't have so much luck with a later carter BBD on an 1984 AMC 258, but that was a few years ago, I was a teenager and the carb that had the stepper motor. The one you guys mentioned seems like a good idea.
 

traintech55

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I think I will go with that suggestion. I didn't have so much luck with a later carter BBD on an 1984 AMC 258, but that was a few years ago, I was a teenager and the carb that had the stepper motor. The one you guys mentioned seems like a good idea.
Virgil I checked on Rock Auto and they have a Carter in stock for a 1970 318 that looks like it should work. $115.00 plus $40.00 core. First advice get a base gasket for it and check to see if it fits your manifold.
 

rags

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you should follow 'techs advice and use a base gasket for comparison before you decide to commit. his choice for carb is a good recommendation if you do.
 

Virgil J.

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Update - So I put a brand new Carter bbd carb (chinese copy but oh well..) and new timing chain, it seems to have the same problem: it will start right up on the first turn of the key and run for like 5 seconds then it won't run again. I know I've tried a lot of things here in mixed order. I am thinking that there is either a vacuum leak or a valve problem. I've adjusted the mechanical lifters to spec and they all seem like they're moving up and down properly. Maybe the next step is a new intake manifold gasket or ...just swap for a later model LA 318. So atleast I can use all/ most the parts I bought either way. Thanks again guys
 

traintech55

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Update - So I put a brand new Carter bbd carb (chinese copy but oh well..) and new timing chain, it seems to have the same problem: it will start right up on the first turn of the key and run for like 5 seconds then it won't run again. I know I've tried a lot of things here in mixed order. I am thinking that there is either a vacuum leak or a valve problem. I've adjusted the mechanical lifters to spec and they all seem like they're moving up and down properly. Maybe the next step is a new intake manifold gasket or ...just swap for a later model LA 318. So atleast I can use all/ most the parts I bought either way. Thanks again guys
Virgil, trick to try to see if it is a vacuum leak, take a large rag, place it over the air horn of the carb and try to close off as much air as possible. If the engine stays running, then you have a major leak.
 

Virgil J.

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I would try to do that with the rag, but the thing is it will only run once, when I first try it. It then it acts like it is flooded and won't run again until I let it sit for a while. So maybe I can have a friend start it for me and I could just cover the top of the carb and see if it stalls.
 

Virgil J.

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I'm getting spray up through the carb, as before the car is backfiring through the carb.... before I replaced the carb it did this too and started a little fire...maybe signs are pointing to a valve problem here?
I am contemplating a swap to a 1976 225 slant 6 and 904 trans just to get her back on the road.
 

traintech55

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I'm getting spray up through the carb, as before the car is backfiring through the carb.... before I replaced the carb it did this too and started a little fire...maybe signs are pointing to a valve problem here?
I am contemplating a swap to a 1976 225 slant 6 and 904 trans just to get her back on the road.
You will have too many problems trying to put a slant 6 in that sub frame. Money would be better spent to repair your engine, or replace it with a "LA" style engine.
 

Virgil J.

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Thanks traintech55, I'm going with your latter advice, plan to keep the old engine for a later rebuild - for a poly powered schwinn stingray
 

traintech55

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Thanks traintech55, I'm going with your latter advice, plan to keep the old engine for a later rebuild - for a poly powered schwinn stingray
Now that would be one hell of a machine. Remember we require pictures on all build projects.
 
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