power steering system bleeding

[70Tom]

OK, so I went ahead and replaced my power steering box again, because I was having some issues with pressure. This was due to the fact that one of the cheap plastic plugs they uses for shipping got jammed in one of the fluid holes and was most certainly blocking the flow of fluid. So, after replacing my pump that was leaking, I decided after a week of driving with the bum gear box to replace it.

So, I replace it, which was obviously a bit more difficult with the front end back in place, but not too bad. I replaced the pressure hose just in case there was anything stuck in the hose as well.

And now, I can't get the damn steering from immediately violently jamming to the left when I turn on the car. It is infinitely worse that what was happening with the old box which was some minor twitching here and there. I have tried bleeding the system by removing the return hose at the pump and, with the wheels raised, turn the wheel from lock to lock several times. After doing this several times, absolutely nothing changed. I then purchased a bleeding kit and a pump reservoir stopper. However, upon finally receiving it and looking at the lip of my reservoir, it has 2 notches for the cap. So I tried plugging up those notches the best I could. I actually got it to work several times, and thought I was getting air out of the system. However, the stopper stopped sealing on me and I couldn't continue. I then tried starting the car to see it it was any better. It was only marginally better.

The best thing about all this is, whenever I turn on the car, and I'm fighting the wheel and almost dislocating my elbows, fluid is blowing past the cap and leaking all over the place. So that's great.

I'm pretty disgusted at this point. It was bad enough having to remove a f*cking gear box I had replaced once. Now to have it work even worse than it was before replacing it is just making me ill. I'm at the point I'm just going to have it towed somewhere and let someone else deal with it. That is if I can find someone to work on it.

Before I do this, any tips?

 

[C Body Bob]

This happened to a guy on a Cummings Dodge form. If I remember right they told him to crack loose the bolts that hold the PSI valve to the box. Start it & turn wheel back to center. They where saying the
valve had stuck & needed resetting. That's what I remember anyway. That's been a few years ago I was reading that.

 

[727]

On the steering gear block. You have to loosen (just barely so as to not blow PS fluid out) the two 7/16" socket head bolts on the valve block your power steering return hose is hooked to. I usually put the front end of the car on jack stands. Then crank the engine and tap the valve block fwd or aft until the wheel stays centered. Then tighten down the bolts and take it for a test drive. It may take a couple of tries to get to not pull on the hwy.

 

[70Tom]

Couple questions:

1) Is the PSI valve the silver piece that the return line connect to or the piece that the pressure line connects?

2) I assume this is all done with the car not running.

 

[70Tom]

On the steering gear block. You have to loosen (just barely so as to not blow PS fluid out) the two 7/16" socket head bolts on the valve block your power steering return hose is hooked to. I usually put the front end of the car on jack stands. Then crank the engine and tap the valve block fwd or aft until the wheel stays centered. Then tighten down the bolts and take it for a test drive. It may take a couple of tries to get to not pull on the hwy.

Ok, so will fluid be leaking out of valve block or am I barely loosening the bolts?

Also when I’m tapping on it, is the engine running? And am I tapping it side to side or towards the firewall then towards the front of the car?

 

[Davea Lux]

OK, so I went ahead and replaced my power steering box again, because I was having some issues with pressure. This was due to the fact that one of the cheap plastic plugs they uses for shipping got jammed in one of the fluid holes and was most certainly blocking the flow of fluid. So, after replacing my pump that was leaking, I decided after a week of driving with the bum gear box to replace it.

So, I replace it, which was obviously a bit more difficult with the front end back in place, but not too bad. I replaced the pressure hose just in case there was anything stuck in the hose as well.

And now, I can't get the damn steering from immediately violently jamming to the left when I turn on the car. It is infinitely worse that what was happening with the old box which was some minor twitching here and there. I have tried bleeding the system by removing the return hose at the pump and, with the wheels raised, turn the wheel from lock to lock several times. After doing this several times, absolutely nothing changed. I then purchased a bleeding kit and a pump reservoir stopper. However, upon finally receiving it and looking at the lip of my reservoir, it has 2 notches for the cap. So I tried plugging up those notches the best I could. I actually got it to work several times, and thought I was getting air out of the system. However, the stopper stopped sealing on me and I couldn't continue. I then tried starting the car to see it it was any better. It was only marginally better.

The best thing about all this is, whenever I turn on the car, and I'm fighting the wheel and almost dislocating my elbows, fluid is blowing past the cap and leaking all over the place. So that's great.

I'm pretty disgusted at this point. It was bad enough having to remove a f*cking gear box I had replaced once. Now to have it work even worse than it was before replacing it is just making me ill. I'm at the point I'm just going to have it towed somewhere and let someone else deal with it. That is if I can find someone to work on it.

Before I do this, any tips?

Before giving up on the new steering gear, try adjusting the portioning valve. It sounds like some body at the re-builder has it improperly adjusted. The portioning valve engages the power assist whenever the wheel is turned to the right or left. It this valve is improperly set, it will cause the steering wheel to turn by itself one way or the other until it locks up. The portioning valve is on the top of the steering gear, it is the valve body that has the two power steering hoses attached to it. It is held in place by two bolts. The valve body has slotted holes for the bolts so that the valve body can be moved on the steering gear. This is how it is adjusted. Try centering the valve on the mid point of its range of travel and see if that solves your problem.. Be sure to re-tighten the bolts prior to starting the car so you do not make a big mess from leaking fluid.

Another possible problem is the lash adjuster might be set too tight. The lash adjuster has a jam nut with either an Allen or blade type shaft, also on the top of the gear. Try backing off the lash adjuster about 1/2 a turn to see of the wheel will turn freely.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

Ok, so will fluid be leaking out of valve block or am I barely loosening the bolts?

Also when I’m tapping on it, is the engine running? And am I tapping it side to side or towards the firewall then towards the front of the car?

Have the engine off. Tap it to the front or back, not side to side.

Dave

 

[Wollfen]

The metering block is the unit bolted down on to the top of the power steering box, there are two 7/16ths bolts you will see with a hose going into the "silver" part of the block. You will need to crack and slightly loosen both of these bolts before starting the car and having it running.
The front of the car should be on axle stands so the wheels are hanging free. While the car is idling you can tap the block either forward or backwards. You will find out pretty quickly which way it will go once the power steering pump stops turning the wheels to one side. You want it so with very slight taps you get to the point where with the car running you can lightly touch the steering wheel and feel no resistance in either direction, left or right when turning the wheel. When you have that, lock the 7/16ths bolts down and then do the steering wheel test again. If it feels good, take it for a slow drive and turn some corners to make sure everything feels good before increasing speed.

 

[Davea Lux]

Couple questions:

1) Is the PSI valve the silver piece that the return line connect to or the piece that the pressure line connects?

2) I assume this is all done with the car not running.

View attachment 159041

The PSI valve is the entire assembly that is held in place by the two bolts. From the photo it appears to be set too far forward (toward the front of the car).

Dave

 

[HWYCRZR]

From the 68 service manual. Looks the same from your picture. Start around step16 (In your case with the engine off loosen the two screws and re torque to 7 ft lbs) towards the bottom of the photo.

 

[70Tom]

Ok, so to reiterate, I’m loosening the bolts that attach the silver piece to the metering block to which the return hose connects. I loosen then just enough so there’s no fluid pouring out of there (I assume some will be leaking out, however?)

Then, I turn on the car. At this point I assume my wheel is going to slam to the left (is that ok?). It is here I tap it towards the firewall or towards the grille.

Does this sound correct?

I am NOT loosening the slotted bolts that connect the metering box to the gear box (as shown in pic below)

 

[70Tom]

Well loosened bolts. Turned on car. Wheel went all the way to the left. I tried tapping on it forward or backwards and nothing seemed to happen. Not sure how hard I’m supposed to tap on it but used a plastic hammer so as not to damage the valve body.

 

[HWYCRZR]

You need to loosen the black valve body in your last picture. The ones that are sloted ( your hoses should also hook to this block).

With the car off loosen that black block on the top. Try to center the block with the engine off first. Tighten to 7 foot pounds or snug. There are o-rings under the block so if to loose you could blow them out when starting. The black block on top should slide. Unless you run it over relief one way it should not leak.

 

[70Tom]

I got it guys. It’s what Bob first said and then Dave reiterated. ThenPSI valve was way too far forward. I simply loosened the bolts pushed it towards my firewall and voila. No wheel turn. Thanks again guys.

This forum is the best!

 

[twostick]

The silver thing has nothing to do with you problem as far as adjusting goes.

You want to loosen the 2 bolts that are looking up at you from either side of that steel hi pressure line.

Do this with the engine off first so you get a feel for what it does. Slide the block all the way forward and then all the way back. Been a long time since I fooled with one but I'm thinking that we're talking less than 3/8" total end to end.

Once you've done that slide it half way so it's close to center and just barely snug the bolts so it can still move with a light tap of a hammer but not leak.

With your appendages nowhere near the steering wheel and the front wheels hanging in the air, start the engine and see if the wheel self steers. If you guessed good centering the valve it won't move or will slooowwly move left or right.

If it moves, lightly tap the valve forward or back until it stays put. Be gentle as we're talking 1/64s one direction or the other when it's that close to right.

Kevin

 

[70Tom]

OK, so just took the SF for a quick drive. When turning the wheel left, the car starts pulling that way fairly strong. If I turn the wheel to the right, the wheel slightly automatically starts going that way. The wheel is still not turning totally smoothly.

As the manifolds were way too hot to try and loosen the bolts on the PSI valve, I'm going to drive the car to work tomorrow as is and see how it goes. Then Sat AM, I'll make what I hope are final adjustments. As the wheel was turning to the left so severely to begin with and still is going that way somewhat, I suspect I still need to move that PSI valve towards the firewall.

Man, that builder did a totally sh*tty job in installing that. Wasn't even remotely close.

Thanks again all.

 

[Davea Lux]

OK, so just took the SF for a quick drive. When turning the wheel left, the car starts pulling that way fairly strong. If I turn the wheel to the right, the wheel slightly automatically starts going that way. The wheel is still not turning totally smoothly.

As the manifolds were way too hot to try and loosen the bolts on the PSI valve, I'm going to drive the car to work tomorrow as is and see how it goes. Then Sat AM, I'll make what I hope are final adjustments. As the wheel was turning to the left so severely to begin with and still is going that way somewhat, I suspect I still need to move that PSI valve towards the firewall.

Man, that builder did a totally sh*tty job in installing that. Wasn't even remotely close.

Thanks again all.

They have trouble reading instructions in English in Mexico or China. Very typical problems for today's "quality" rebuilds.

Dave

 

[saylor]

hey broman try not to die this is nothing to goof with be careful trying to drive to work and if you have to go at any kind of speed, hold off until you have this dialed in.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[twostick]

You need to have the wheels in the air to adjust it properly.

Kevin

 

[70Tom]

You need to have the wheels in the air to adjust it properly.

Kevin

They were. I'll lift it back up for readjustment.