Rear Main Seal 1970 Chrysler 300 engine 440
- Thread starter Waggy
- Start date
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Easy? No, pull the engine not necessary, but you will have to pull the pan.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Well, Waggy, there is an easier way than pulling the engine but it is definitely not easy in itself.
And once again, it depends.
Condition of the engine???
And once again, it depends.
Condition of the engine???
Back in the day we would pull the pan, pull the rear main bearing cap, push out the old seal, pound in the new seal and then put it all back together. Messy, but it worked.
Pulling the pan is probably the "easiest" way. Still have to lift the engine up a bit. Back in the day, rope seals were used. Soak them in thin oil over night and the we're good to go. Hardly ever had a problem with those. These modern day rubber seals are junk! Guaranteed to leak! My left lug nut for a good, permanent fix to Mopar rear main leaks.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
The rope seals are the way to go but there's only one manufacturer left and I can't remember their name
And no, you can't use the rope strands from a floor mop. Lol.
And no, you can't use the rope strands from a floor mop. Lol.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
I thought Detmatt had a great thread somewhere here that went into detail on replacing the seal so it never leaked. The motor was on the stand, but IMHO it's worth pulling considering the amount of frustration and time you would have to spend on your back lifting the engine and pulling the pan.
In my own experience, (383 in an E body) I used wood blocks on the motor mounts which gave just enough clearance to remove the oil pan. Replaced that freaking seal three times and it leaked every time.
In my own experience, (383 in an E body) I used wood blocks on the motor mounts which gave just enough clearance to remove the oil pan. Replaced that freaking seal three times and it leaked every time.
Well I got the oil pan off and there are two bolts I cannot get a socket on. I look at them and say "Should be a piece of cake!" Can someone tell me what socket is needed. I even turned a socket down to get in there and no luck.
I thought it was a 7/16th or 10 ml, the car is too old for metric!
I thought it was a 7/16th or 10 ml, the car is too old for metric!
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
Lol, I used a 3/8ths drive socket today to put two in on my engine, I can't remember what size it is but it is smaller than 7/16th's. I'm pretty sure 3/8th's is the size but don't quote me.
I GOT it done! The problem I was having was the number of points on the bolt did not match the number of points I had on the socket. I finally found a multi point deep socket 3/8th or 7/16th and it worked. I retired and I think this is the first time I ever had to work on a bolt with so many points! It is done!
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
If your rolling in a rubber seal you don't need to drop the crank
Please teach me master
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Mine still leaks, just not as much...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Are you kidding me... damn.
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Yes. I'll attribute it to there being 145K miles but I really don't know. It didn't leak for a solid month after I had it fixed and than one day a drip.
I have used these with good luck:
Dvorak Machine - MOPAR Rear Main Seal Kit
Dvorak Machine - MOPAR Rear Main Seal Kit
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Don't line up the mating surfaces of the seal with the retainer and the lip faces inward.
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