Recommendation for torque converter?

flyinbrick68

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Well since im probably not going as wild as i thought with the 451 who would you reccomend to clean and restall a torque converter? I've got a 12" i think that came out of my 727 from a 440/727 motor home combo. Is this even worth trying to get a 2400ish stall out of one or should a guy find a different/smaller converter? Thanks guys.
 

Davea Lux

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Well since im probably not going as wild as i thought with the 451 who would you reccomend to clean and restall a torque converter? I've got a 12" i think that came out of my 727 from a 440/727 motor home combo. Is this even worth trying to get a 2400ish stall out of one or should a guy find a different/smaller converter? Thanks guys.

It is probably an 11" convertor. The stall speed of the convertor should be matched to the torque range of you cam shaft. You can run either a 10" or 11" in the 2400 range, the larger convertor is usually more durable and stronger, the smaller convertor is lighter, more responsive and usually cheaper. For a street machine that is driven often, I would probably stay with an 11". The gear ratio you decide to run will also impact the choice for the stall speed on the convertor, so keep that in mind. There are many manufacturers making after market high stall speed units, so I would shop around, Hughes and B &M both make high quality units but they are fairly pricey and might be over kill for what you have in mind. You will probably be better off going with an off the shelf unit and using your old unit as a core as long as you do not need a specialty convertor for an odd rpm range.

Dave
 

flyinbrick68

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Thanks dave. Until i find an 8 3/4 im stuck with crappy 2.91 if i remember coulda been in the 2.70ish range. I need to jack the car up again and spin the wheels again and count the revolutions on the pinion yolk to see where im at. If i can't find an 8 3/4 im using the stock rear and the 226@.050 108lsa racer brown cam and going from there. It'll just have to be a cruiser instead of a street/strip bruiser like i had originally planned.
 

CBODY67

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As a side note, there is "stall speed" and also "flash stall speed". The former would be when you stab the brakes and slowly raise engine rpm until either the rear brakes are over-powered or the engine rpm maxes out with no wheel spin. The latter would be when you suddenly tromp the throttle rather than build rpm slower.

Would be good to know what gear ratio you'll end up with. Reason would be to know the general rpm at a 60mph cruise situation. Which should be at or just above the normal stall speed rating. Otherwise, throttle response to maintain speed can be soggy, with the end result being increased fuel consumption. Unless you learn to drive it that way, so that you accelerate more gently with a more stable throttle position, by observation.

By observation, sometimes having things a bit "tighter" can result in a better-driving vehicle for daily use. But might also need a little more finesse at the starting line for best results.

Remember, too, that stall speed is relative to the power in front of the converter. Which is why many "factory hot rod" V-8s used a 6-cyl converter for their resultant higher stall speeds. In effect, you might already be closer to where you want to end up with what you already have.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 

my5thmopar

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I just used a factory high stall from Precision of New Hampton. I called and spoke with a gal. I discussed my 76 440/727 that I have in my 64 D100. She asked a few questions and gave me a recommendation. I got it overnight to AutoZone no charge. Zero issues with it. Craig

PS. You have a 451, then maybe you need to spend the money. You probably need a custom TC to match your vehicle weight, usage, gear ratio etc.
 

FURYGT

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C Bodies typically came with a 12" converter.

I highly recommend Ultimate Converters. Give them a call and talk to Lenny. Very reasonable and very knowledgeable.
 

furious70

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That seems like a small, yet peaky cam given the 108. Do you have a build thread on here?
I wouldn't spend any money on a converter atm. Get it running, see how it reacts, v figure out the rear gear
 

flyinbrick68

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Awsome thanks guys! Ive got two aftermarket options at the moment ones way too much probably. I've got a 10" 3000 ati thats in my d100 or a 9.5" 3600 dynamic. I thought the cam was small too i think it was specd for 3.23 gears and a mild 9.7:1 is 451 and power brakes for the fury. Maybe perfect for a cruiser probably not so much for a brawler...
 

flyinbrick68

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Awsome thanks guys! Ive got two aftermarket options at the moment ones way too much probably. I've got a 10" 3000 ati thats in my d100 or a 9.5"
That seems like a small, yet peaky cam given the 108. Do you have a build thread on here?
I wouldn't spend any money on a converter atm. Get it running, see how it reacts, v figure out the rear gear
Im working on the 451 slowly and hoping to source a 8 3/4 somewhere. I sold my d100 i was going to swap the 3.23 rear from so we'll see.
 

FURYGT

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I'm sure that others will chime in here but I don't think either of the torque converter options you list are something that you are going to be happy with. I don't think that you will be happy with a small, high stall converter in a street car especially with it only having a 3.23 rear gear.

Your build is different than mine. My street/strip pump gas 520" stroker has a custom built 11" converter that was built by Ultimate Converters using a Hemi 727 converter as the core. Granted, I have 3.73 gears in my car. My car with that torque converter drives like as if it was completely stock as far the transmission operation and does what it needs to at the track.
 

furious70

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I wouldn't use either of those as well. That cam on 108 may hurt a typical broad torque curve
 

CBODY67

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On the surface, that particular cam you referenced is probably not a whole lot more @.050" duration than a 440/375 cam, all things considered. The difference is in the LCA being 108 rather than closer to 114, which can affect where the torque peak happens, as I understand it. PLUS affecting idle vacuum "in gear", from my observations with a 110 LCA cam in my Camaro. Which is why I suspect that you might hit or get near to your desired stall speed with the stock converter you now have.

I might add that the Chrysler 10.75" converter is the "small" converter and the 11.75" size is the normal/"large" converter. The 10.75" is what came with the 383HP engines and also in my '70 Monaco 383 "N". Reason I know that is that it takes less fluid for a filter service refill.

To me, to make those two "small" converters you now have really work, you need more cam and probably a 4.30 rear axle ratio. None of which will be very street friendly, except in competition mode. Otherwise, it'll sound like the gear and cam aren't matched very well. Plus possibly sound like the trans is slipping until the rpm gets to a particular level, when normal-driving it.

Lots of options. Your judgment call,
CBODY67
 

Rustyrodknocker

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I just seen this and coincidentally just made the same comment on another thread. The smaller rv torque converter and my 2:76 sucks.
High stall sucks in general. Unless your pulling a trailer all the time or a weekend bracket racer its just an annoyance.
On the open road its fine. But in slow rolling traffic and lights and drive thrus it's ridiculous.
 

Turboomni

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I am about to call Lenny at Ultimate Converters tomorrow or so as I need a torque converter for my 505 ci stroker. Just wanting to know from FURYGT and everyone else what to ask for or any tips to make sure he knows what I want. I will be running 3.23 rear ratio. Tire diameter is 28 inches ,weight is 4100 lbs. Dwayne Porter says it will be doing 535 hp at 5500 to 5700 rpms and 575 to 600 ft lbs of torque at 3000 to 3800 rpms while using HP cast iron exhaust manifolds. Anything else he needs to know or will ask me about?
Thanks
 

FURYGT

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I am about to call Lenny at Ultimate Converters tomorrow or so as I need a torque converter for my 505 ci stroker. Just wanting to know from FURYGT and everyone else what to ask for or any tips to make sure he knows what I want. I will be running 3.23 rear ratio. Tire diameter is 28 inches ,weight is 4100 lbs. Dwayne Porter says it will be doing 535 hp at 5500 to 5700 rpms and 575 to 600 ft lbs of torque at 3000 to 3800 rpms while using HP cast iron exhaust manifolds. Anything else he needs to know or will ask me about?
Thanks

Lenny will ask you all the questions that he needs to know. You have all the info and let him know that this is a street car.
 

70bigblockdodge

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I think Lenny has retired. Once u buy a good converter u will never go back to a cheap Off the shelf converter. Kim
Hey, hey, cheap off the shelf converters have a place. People buy them, don't like them and then they end up in the swap meet for really cheap, for cheap asses like me. I either like it or live with it and because it was dirt cheap it is a wash. If the trans pukes and converter has to come apart anyway I can have it tweaked then. So long live cheap off the shelf converters, and the people that buy them. I don't want my supply to dry up.:thumbsup:
 

flyinbrick68

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Well id hate to call either of them cheap ones an ati and the others a dynamic converters 9.5" Maybe I over paid idk but both were over 600 dollar converters.
 
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