Resurrection of my 1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible

[73Coupe]

I have seen that roll on primer and wondered about using it for a couple small paint projects.

I'm not surprised that Eastwood is expensive... Everything there is and can usually be sourced somewhere else for a lot less $$.

I'm about to get some of their roll-on epoxy primer to coat body internals. I chose this product because it will flow better and will get into all the pinch weld seams and crevices. Previously had brushed on the standard epoxy. Does anyone else sell a "roll-on" primer?

 

[Samplingman]

I'm about to get some of their roll-on epoxy primer to coat body internals. I chose this product because it will flow better and will get into all the pinch weld seams and crevices. Previously had brushed on the standard epoxy. Does anyone else sell a "roll-on" primer?

There are several YouTube videos on the subject, worth a watch. I think it is designed more for external sheet metal that will be top coated. From what I remember, the kit comes with a rattle can of 2k primer to get into the tight spots and edges that the roller can’t reach. Not sure exactly what the catalyst is, but I imagine it’s a combo of hardener and reducer. There are other epoxy primes out there, Sherman Williams makes one, no idea how it compares. For me it was easier and more cost effective to just use the spray since I would have to use the rattle can anyway with the roll on system. If you plan on topcoating then Eastwood is a good product, plus you have 7 days before it fully cures, after that you have to scuff the primer to get proper adhesion. Then again, if it’s just for internals you might be better off with a less expensive big box option like the Williams or just use Rustoleum. It’s an oil base, no catalyst needed, but you could reduce it with acetone. Let us know how it works out.

 

[73Coupe]

There are several YouTube videos on the subject, worth a watch. I think it is designed more for external sheet metal that will be top coated. From what I remember, the kit comes with a rattle can of 2k primer to get into the tight spots and edges that the roller can’t reach. Not sure exactly what the catalyst is, but I imagine it’s a combo of hardener and reducer. There are other epoxy primes out there, Sherman Williams makes one, no idea how it compares. For me it was easier and more cost effective to just use the spray since I would have to use the rattle can anyway with the roll on system. If you plan on topcoating then Eastwood is a good product, plus you have 7 days before it fully cures, after that you have to scuff the primer to get proper adhesion. Then again, if it’s just for internals you might be better off with a less expensive big box option like the Williams or just use Rustoleum. It’s an oil base, no catalyst needed, but you could reduce it with acetone. Let us know how it works out.

In the previous go-around of priming other areas of the car, I hooked a long wand with 360 tip up to their 2k primer spray can and got into the depths of the cowl area. I'll use this same approach for the rocker internals.

 

[Samplingman]

In the previous go-around of priming other areas of the car, I hooked a long wand with 360 tip up to their 2k primer spray can and got into the depths of the cowl area. I'll use this same approach for the rocker internals.

That's a great idea. I'd like to see this setup, where did you get the wand?

 

[73Coupe]

That's a great idea. I'd like to see this setup, where did you get the wand?

I can't recall which type of can/tip the Eastwood 2k epoxy spray was, but below are two Amazon links for the ones I purchased. If I were to guess it would be the first link.

For female stem cans (a bit overpriced IMO):

https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings...B00UDIZX2Y&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_13_i

For male stem cans:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/buyagain?ats=eyJjdXN0b21lcklkIjoiQTJTSkZPSDFROEU0SDEiLCJleHBsaWNpdENhbmRpZGF0ZXMiOiJCMDdWNlpONE04In0=&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_bia_item

The same type of wand is used in Eastwood's internal frame coating spray kit.

EDIT: to aid in insertion, penetration, and positioning of the spray wands, tape them to a coat hanger wire or something rigid. Don't get too excited in the process.

 

[Samplingman]

Finishing up a few loose ends before my trip. I had some issues with the rear left quarter window, but with some help here and from my more electrically literate son, I was able to clean the contacts in the master switch and get all the windows to work.

Time to button up the rear door panels and freshen up the rear seat area. Panels and seats are all original materials and cleaned up nicely.

I wanted to reproduce the plastic liner since mine was missing. I have one from the TX9. It is slightly different, but I was able to get a decent pattern from it.

Last year I bought a huge roll of butyl tape, it was less than $20 at the home depot

I was very satisfied with the outcome.

When I got the rear armrests, there was silver metal tape around the courtesy light. I’m not sure if that was factory and decided to replace it with new tape.

Very satisfied with the results now that the back seat area is complete.

The retractable seat belts on the other hand continue to give me fits and even after several hours of working them I have yet to find an acceptable solution.

That’s it for now, I hope everyone enjoys Carlisle!

I’m off to catch the plane, Ciao!

 

[71Polara383]

The retractable seat belts on the other hand continue to give me fits and even after several hours of working them I have yet to find an acceptable solution.

View attachment 726258

Its a pain in the butt to get those right. I try to opt for the 71 style retractors now.

 

[Samplingman]

Its a pain in the butt to get those right. I try to opt for the 71 style retractors now.

Oh, how are they different from the ‘70? Do you have a pic?