Some pictures of my bud's '70 Hurst 300

Common Chrysler problem is for a few of the lights to look dim or not work at all (your pass rear). If the bulbs are the same and fine, Fix is to disconnect battery, get pliers under the rear bumper and rotate the socket assemblies. They rust and get loose which gives a weak ground. After that, remove bulbs from sockets and lightly tap socket assemblies with chisel to set the socket into the steel panel.

Also common, if power windows don't work or work very slowly, remove door panel, carefully remove switch from panel (its sort of cardboard so be careful), then carefully open plastic container, clean connections, then solder each connection. (seats too)

1970's Chrysler were great engineers but sucked as electricians.
 
Northcoast300h said:
Common Chrysler problem is for a few of the lights to look dim or not work at all (your pass rear). If the bulbs are the same and fine, Fix is to disconnect battery, get pliers under the rear bumper and rotate the socket assemblies. They rust and get loose which gives a weak ground. After that, remove bulbs from sockets and lightly tap socket assemblies with chisel to set the socket into the steel panel.

Also common, if power windows don't work or work very slowly, remove door panel, carefully remove switch from panel (its sort of cardboard so be careful), then carefully open plastic container, clean connections, then solder each connection. (seats too)

1970's Chrysler were great engineers but sucked as electricians.
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I noticed that issue as well. Very good advice and a way to solve the problem that I hadn't thought of but will try. I was thinking I would just solder a wire from the back side of the tail lamp housing to each socket to avoid the interface corrosion problem and seal off the solder points with some sealant, but your way sounds like a lot less effort and would also yield a good result. This is also a problem on the cornering lights since they are really subject to so much water splash being low down in the fender. Thanks.
 
I think I had to remove the license plate and stick my hand way up there to turn the sockets. Everything is brittle on these old hags, so I tried to be gentle. I remember they looked clean but if you turn the sockets enough, they will glow great again. Another cheap thing I did was to clean the interior of the light bezels, then paint prep spray, then put 3m chrome tape everywhere inside. A big difference. Glows like a new car now.
 
Northcoast300h said:
I think I had to remove the license plate and stick my hand way up there to turn the sockets. Everything is brittle on these old hags, so I tried to be gentle. I remember they looked clean but if you turn the sockets enough, they will glow great again. Another cheap thing I did was to clean the interior of the light bezels, then paint prep spray, then put 3m chrome tape everywhere inside. A big difference. Glows like a new car now.
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Spraying the inner bezel reflecting surface with chrome paint does also brighten things up and is easier to do.
 
Very nice Hurst. I'm impressed at how straight the hood and decklid are, as that fiberglass often became quite wavy or ill-fitting after just a few years (1975!). Mine are good, but this car is better.

Great pics you have treated us to, thanks for posting!
 
Northcoast300h said:
Common Chrysler problem is for a few of the lights to look dim or not work at all (your pass rear). If the bulbs are the same and fine, Fix is to disconnect battery, get pliers under the rear bumper and rotate the socket assemblies. They rust and get loose which gives a weak ground. After that, remove bulbs from sockets and lightly tap socket assemblies with chisel to set the socket into the steel panel.

Also common, if power windows don't work or work very slowly, remove door panel, carefully remove switch from panel (its sort of cardboard so be careful), then carefully open plastic container, clean connections, then solder each connection. (seats too)

1970's Chrysler were great engineers but sucked as electricians.
Click to expand...

saforwardlook said:
I noticed that issue as well. Very good advice and a way to solve the problem that I hadn't thought of but will try. I was thinking I would just solder a wire from the back side of the tail lamp housing to each socket to avoid the interface corrosion problem and seal off the solder points with some sealant, but your way sounds like a lot less effort and would also yield a good result. This is also a problem on the cornering lights since they are really subject to so much water splash being low down in the fender. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I've solved this common problem by scraping clean a small spot on the socket flange and and at the adjoining housing (I'm talking about the easily accessed bulb side of the housing). Then, some patience (heat!) with a soldering iron and flux-core solder will give you that tiny amount of grounding needed for that bulb. I've done this on the rear lights and on the front parking lights. And yes, some careful chisel dimples can work, too.

I think our electrical gremlins are more a result of cost-avoidance during fabrication vs. poor engineering. I recall fixing these sorts of things when I worked at a Chrysler dealer in 1976/77 while in engineering school, so it's a miracle anything works all these years later.

I hope we've helped the NZ Hurst with our suggestions. :thumbsup:
 
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Man, how many front ends can you put on a car? Sure makes the Chrysler 300 Hurst look even better in comparison. It looks like it's moving even when it's standing still.

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I like Stangs, (even with multiiple front ends.) I think with today's high chrome prices, the needed safety regulations and low incomes forcing people to buy one vehicle that can do everything (suv's and trucks), todays designers are all out of ideas.
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Wow, what a gathering. Looks like there were some cars and people out there. Out of curiosity, can anyone identify the very green motorcycle?
 
Northcoast300h said:
I like Stangs, (even with multiiple front ends.) I think with today's high chrome prices, the needed safety regulations and low incomes forcing people to buy one vehicle that can do everything (suv's and trucks), todays designers are all out of ideas. View attachment 521014
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I think the safety regulations are a part of the reason cars are so expensive now. More expensive though is probably the infotainment nonsense they put in the dash, and the ridiculous parallel-park/panic-stop/lane-assist for you gimmicks... Don't even get me started on the price of all those cupholders XD
 
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