Thinking of Going BACK to Front Drums

[fury fan]

Since purchasing the 1983 Dodge D150 Miser pickup, I now KNOW BEYOND ALL DOUBT THAT A VIABLE MANUAL DISC BRAKE SYSTEM CAN BE BUILT FOR 2 TON VEHICLES! If I really want front disc brakes for any C body I'll drive, I plan to base it on the design and specs used for that pickup truck.

The manual-disc pickup trucks were also the validator for pursuing my last disc conversion as manual brakes.
If the factory did it, it went thru a lot of testing.

Manual brakes aren't for everybody, but I sure love the feel and control of mine.

 

[Gerald Morris]

The manual-disc pickup trucks were also the validator for pursuing my last disc conversion as manual brakes.
If the factory did it, it went thru a lot of testing.

Manual brakes aren't for everybody, but I sure love the feel and control of mine.

Right on RIGHT ON! I'm not gonna hurry into such a job, and likely will study what Dodge did w my truck closely, then spec a very similar if not the same master cylinder, and front calipers. Since Billy (our D150) has the same venerable wheel size too, the disc diameter also should work well. EZPZ methinks.

 

[CBODY67]

Another non-power disc/drum brake setup was on 1970 (or 1970 1/2, if you like that better) Camaros. Kind of in the background as the "normal" way was power disc/drum systems back then. A friend had one and claimed it was fine to stop, but after the drum brakes on our '51 Chevy pickup, I'll take power assist, no matter what, if possible.

The key thing, to me, is combining the existing possibilities of mechanical leverage (pedal ratio) plus increasing the hydraulic leverage (piston diameter in the master cyl plus wheel cylinders).

CBODY67

 

[Gerald Morris]

Another non-power disc/drum brake setup was on 1970 (or 1970 1/2, if you like that better) Camaros. Kind of in t.... I'll take power assist, no matter what, if possible.

I like to stop quick when needful. Mind you, the last time it mattered, I stopped the car quick, as the damn tire marks on the street bore witness to, but it didn't matter enough. I was only rolling about 35 mph too.

What I would insist on if I ever put a booster on my brake system would be good enough leverage to drive the brakes good and hard WITHOUT the booster operating. This segues into your next requirement well...

The key thing, to me, is combining the existing possibilities of mechanical leverage (pedal ratio) plus increasing the hydraulic leverage (piston diameter in the master cyl plus wheel cylinders). CBODY67

Aside from installing a custom bracket and pedal to optimize the pedal ratio, I reckon the next best thing on a C body Mopar would be to use a manual pedal with a booster. That shouldn't be too difficult to contrive on the Slabs and Forward Looks anyway, given these will have the most open real estate available under the hood, if one must modify much anything to make this work. I don't think on a Slab such would be necessary, but admit I might be wrong here.

So long as my quadriceps have enough tone, I can still drive a master cylinder hard enough for good braking. I LOVE the feel of manual, direct linkage however, which is my greatest reason for sticking with it. I don't think the booster transmits that response from the brakes so well.

 

[fury fan]

... I reckon the next best thing on a C body Mopar would be to use a manual pedal with a booster. T...

BTDT, around 1992.
C Body 4 speed pedals??