Thinking of Going BACK to Front Drums

[Gerald Morris]

I would ditch the works, get an OEM Bendix/Bendix clone master cylinder, a manual brake pedal and mounting bracket, a nice set of drums, shoes, an OEM "control valve" if that isn't present up front, and put it all back as Ma Par rolled it off the line. I admit that since getting our '83 D150 with manual disk brakes up front, that maybe one CAN attain a stable, safe manual disk brake system, despite what the brake shop "experts*" oink about "throw." If I were to put disk brakes on a mid 60s C body, I would study how this truck is constructed and use that for my model . Be that as it may, I like the original all drum setup with good quality components best. Manual brakes require naught but some muscle to drive them, working just as well with the motor off as on.

 

[TAD STIELSTRA]

I read the thread about Tux’s problem and it sure sounds like a booster problem, as does this ‘69 Fury. I’d try another booster (I know that sounds easier than it is) Also, are you sure that the primary and secondary shoes aren’t swapped, in the rear? I love the color combo on Tux! One last solution would be to just sell me Tux…

Have a 70 in the back yard with power drums if you haven't found some sw michigan

 

[1966newport]

only that can cause this issue is bad master cylinder. bad booster wont cause this

 

[NitrousTuner1]

Definitely have a pressure issue...
And being a avid drag racer that sees alot of fast street driving as well...
THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH 4-WHEEL DRUM BRAKES!!
As long as YOU have the Properly made brake shoes & have them adjusted properly. They were designed & made to use asbestos material. NOT semi-mettalic like what your now buying & using.
We have multiple sources where we still get NOS brake shoes & parts.
Here's a pic of the 11×3 1974 NOS set I Just installed...

 

[Gerald Morris]

Definitely have a pressure issue...
And being a avid drag racer that sees alot of fast street driving as well...
THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH 4-WHEEL DRUM BRAKES!!
As long as YOU have the Properly made brake shoes & have them adjusted properly. They were designed & made to use asbestos material. NOT semi-mettalic like what your now buying & using.
We have multiple sources where we still get NOS brake shoes & parts.
Here's a pic of the 11×3 1974 NOS set I Just installed...

View attachment 587015

I've horded up a good stash of front shoes, but for the rear I have to choose between old re-line shoes or graphite-metal. Running old relines just now, but will switch to some of the better graphite shoes later this spring, when I do some other rear end stuff. I refuse to pay $125+ for asbestos for the rear. NO! I've tuned my brakes to stop very nicely w all drums, and really prefer them

Rejoice that the EV enthusiasm has resurrected drum brake development.

 

[Blusmbl]

While I agree drums are ok in some applications, there is no way I'd remove a set of disc brakes to put drums back on. The OP's problem isn't the discs, there is something else wrong in the setup.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

If you want drive the car, I would ditch the booster all together. Some people want to ride in their cars, so figure out why your booster does not work, and keep it.
The rears locking first is dangerous. Adjustable proportioning valve should be all the way out then if locking rears start turning it in to reduce pressure to rear.
Rock hard pedal is booster or master cylinder.

 

[Gerald Morris]

If you want drive the car, I would ditch the booster all together. Some people want to ride in their cars, so figure out why your booster does not work, and keep it.
The rears locking first is dangerous. Adjustable proportioning valve should be all the way out then if locking rears start turning it in to reduce pressure to rear.
Rock hard pedal is booster or master cylinder.

Boosters are OK for those who lack the muscle to stomp their brake pedal hard when needed, but those of us blessed with the strength to do so get better braking with our native strength in part because we can feel how hard we're pressing the brakes and how they're responding! The booster gets in the way of this sort of fine tuning. If I were pulling a heavy load, I admit I would want a booster to help me, if it had no brakes on it.