Have only done a bit of homework on this so far, and am just punting to get started. 66 fury 383. But, with some rear main seal leaks, the work begins. So, several questions for those who come before me on issues. I will just go down the list.....first, there is one oil pan bolt that is buried....cant get to it around the K frame, the other side you can reach from the back side. So, have you been able to get this bolt from the front with small wrenches, and moreover, get it re-started. Secondly, can the pan come off without raising the engine front. Then, what experience with replacing to upgraded rear oil seal holder. Then, what think thee on plastic timing gear, assume no good comments on them after 50 years. Silent or roller replacement. What best new harmonic damper.....rubber may be losing it. And finally, I see big block work on line both with and without the cam thrust button.....does 383 use one? Perhaps of no matter on a tired engine....is it worth it to advance the cam a couple degrees while this work is done. thanks
Timing chain replace, et al
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
Cam thrust buttons are for roller cams only. Of necessity, the roller cam lobes are flat so the cam must be limited from forward and rearward movement. Hence the "button" limits that travel by contacting the front cover, which might need to be an aftermarket unit. Flat tappet cam lobes are tapered slightly so the lifters will rotate on the lobes to minimize wear.
Timing chain? I would go Cloyes Roller, but if the car sees only limited use, the normal style of chain with a steel cam sprocket can last over 100K miles. At this time, the plastic can be a "time bomb" of sorts. Replace the timing chain with a USA product for INSURANCE of a very long service life of the engine.
Sometimes, the FSM lists a procedure for removing the oil pan in the car. Might mention loosening the motor mounts and such. Do NOT forget that the rear pivot of the motor mounts is the transmission mount!
Usually, the pan bolts are removed, motor mounts loosened, engine rotated to a particular crankshaft position, pan moved some, engine rotated more to clear the counterweights, pan wiggled around for removal. Replace rear main seal and such. Reverse procedure to put the pan back on.
KEY thing on this procedure is that with the motor still in the car, the desire to do "while the motor is out . . ." things that cost money, is lessened greatly. But can also lead to "I should have just pulled it out and done it on an engine stand!" too. With the latter possibly resulting in a complete rebuild by the time everything is over.
Harmonic dampers' outer ring will move rearward on the center hub when the rubber starts to deteriorate. The later models look different than the earlier models, cosmetically. Seems like "Damper Doctor" (or similar) can rebuild the OEM stock dampers? No need to go to the expensive SFI-rated drag racing items for a stock motor, unless you want to spend that money or you drag race in a class that requires it. Just make sure any replacement has the timing mark in a place that matches the one on your engine. When #1 cyl is at TDC, the keyway in the crank should point to the centerline of the #! piston pin, IIRC.
As to the number of bolts holding the cam sprocket onto the camshaft. "Single-bolt" items were used on everything but the 426HEMI, which used the "three-bolt" style to match the 3-bolt cam. Cam and sprocket have to match in that respect. Aftermarket cams can be had in either configuration. Possibly some Max Wedge engines also used the 3-bolt?
Hope this might help,
CBODY67
Timing chain? I would go Cloyes Roller, but if the car sees only limited use, the normal style of chain with a steel cam sprocket can last over 100K miles. At this time, the plastic can be a "time bomb" of sorts. Replace the timing chain with a USA product for INSURANCE of a very long service life of the engine.
Sometimes, the FSM lists a procedure for removing the oil pan in the car. Might mention loosening the motor mounts and such. Do NOT forget that the rear pivot of the motor mounts is the transmission mount!
Usually, the pan bolts are removed, motor mounts loosened, engine rotated to a particular crankshaft position, pan moved some, engine rotated more to clear the counterweights, pan wiggled around for removal. Replace rear main seal and such. Reverse procedure to put the pan back on.
KEY thing on this procedure is that with the motor still in the car, the desire to do "while the motor is out . . ." things that cost money, is lessened greatly. But can also lead to "I should have just pulled it out and done it on an engine stand!" too. With the latter possibly resulting in a complete rebuild by the time everything is over.
Harmonic dampers' outer ring will move rearward on the center hub when the rubber starts to deteriorate. The later models look different than the earlier models, cosmetically. Seems like "Damper Doctor" (or similar) can rebuild the OEM stock dampers? No need to go to the expensive SFI-rated drag racing items for a stock motor, unless you want to spend that money or you drag race in a class that requires it. Just make sure any replacement has the timing mark in a place that matches the one on your engine. When #1 cyl is at TDC, the keyway in the crank should point to the centerline of the #! piston pin, IIRC.
As to the number of bolts holding the cam sprocket onto the camshaft. "Single-bolt" items were used on everything but the 426HEMI, which used the "three-bolt" style to match the 3-bolt cam. Cam and sprocket have to match in that respect. Aftermarket cams can be had in either configuration. Possibly some Max Wedge engines also used the 3-bolt?
Hope this might help,
CBODY67
Thanks for great points. I have been doing this a long time, not on this motor, and did not even think of turning the engine to get crank throw clearance for this.....great point. Appreciate the thoughts.
Door bell rang, forgot to mention.....yes, remove the engine. I also have some hot running even with new radiator and hi flow pump and therm. So, will test for comb gas in rad....BUT, you are right, that may be the next step.....aaaargh.
One more please. On the old chevy, the timing cover had a lip under the oil pan. On the 383, there is a flat shelf. Can the timing cover be pushed over the dowels, that I think are there, with either a gasket or sealer on the lower shelf, without dropping the pan. thanks again.
Luke Pokrajac
Active Member
Pretty sure that you can do exactly what you have stated...the timing cover fits over the dowels and the bottom shelf can pull out from the oil pan if the bolts are removed. I removed the oil pan on my 383 in the car...didnt have to raise the engine at all. Some of the bolts are tough to get to above the cross member but you can do it. Oil pan will come out also...no need to raise the engine but it is tight.
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